Printable View
The Peachy Printer seems to be getting a little more complicated with every iteration, although it seems that complication is not always correlating with a reduction in ease of construction. I'm not sure where I read/heard but originally there was something said about the printer taking a few hours to put together and an indeterminate time to calibrate.
As the hardware inches towards release do we have a better idea of build-time?
I need to know how much time to book off of work!
Actually, by having the laser on the board, they took out a few pieces and construction steps (at least on our end anyway) I kind of wonder how they are making sure the laser diode is reliably perpendicular to the board and secure when removing and replacing the aperture. also, mounting the mirrors on a loop (is that really a rubber band or is is some kind of silicone?) looks like it makes the most delicate part of assembly a bit easier. Also, while they added the magnet ring things, they took away the really finicky looking oiled tab step of the mirror assembly. On the other hand, the re-done dripper looks like it might be a little more complex than before.
All in all I say it's probably a wash between the steps they've added and the ones they removed.
This is interesting. I have not been able to get my hands on one yet, but it seems like with all the modifications, like clip on parts, fewer parts and the new dripper (I think they said in the newest update that it has much fewer parts and are faster to assemble) the building time should be much lower then in the beginning. I am a bit curios of how the will solve the tiny wires and connectivity though.
The hardware upgrades they have been doing seems to be more on the circuit board, and will not affect build time I think.
The original peachy p18 (the one in the main crowd funding video)was very very fast to build, Thats because it there was one pice of plastic that folded into position and the mirors were already in place you just had break of some tabs and wrap a thread on, it was so simple. Just talking about it makes me want to figure out how we could go back to that design knowing all we know now.
but that old design wasent orthogonal and it had lots of historeses so we moved away from it, we created much better printers that took way longer to build.
I dont know how long it takes to build the newest printer but it will be far simpler than the one we sent the beta testers which took many hours to build.
I dont know because for example just today i finally "finished codeing" a laser cut dripper
that eliminates 30 steps from the instructions and is a far more reliable dripper. ( nice and parametric just the way i like it :D )
https://www.youtube.com/embed/tel_nzDSmG4
The build time goes up and down like a roler coaster, literally it gose up slowly and down very fast, in a process like this:
luckely we have just had 3 ureka moments this month so the revision that were currently testing is looking great and i for one cant wait to see how long it takes to build from scratch once we have truly finalized it.Code:new/ improved functionality = build time goes up 30 min
whiteboard, try, fail... whiteboard, try, fail
new/ improved functionality = build time goes up 30 min
whiteboard, try, fail... whiteboard, try, fail
new/ improved functionality = build time goes up 30 min
whiteboard, try, fail... whiteboard, try, fail
new/ improved functionality = build time goes up 30 min
whiteboard, try, fail... whiteboard, try, fail
new/ improved functionality = build time goes up 30 min
wow this thing works great but what a mess discombobulated parts!
how can all these new things fit together better ?
whiteboard, try, fail,
whiteboard, try, fail
whiteboard, try, fail
whiteboard, try, fail
whiteboard, try, fail
whiteboard, try, fail
urika moment ! = keep all functionalities and build time goes down 2.5 hours
repeat.
I'd like to selflessly volunteer myself as a layman builder to answer this important question.Quote:
Originally Posted by rylangrayston
You probably already have thought of this, but one cool thing to do: make users 3d print their printer's enclosure.
Since enclosures are for aesthetics, you don't need super tight tolerances. Also, a 3d printed enclosure with curves/rounded corners might be prettier than one made with straight plastic sheets.
Or just go to the nearest dollar store and pick up a plastic container :p
Meh, wouldn't be pretty enough :pQuote:
Originally Posted by iplayfast
Or do what some of the betas have done and get something from Ikea
Out of curiosity, I tried floating some G+ resin (supposedly the same formula as the Peachy Juice) on top of salt water and I didn't use nearly enough salt... The results were... Unfortunate. And so I panicked and dumped in more salt, which kind of mixed into the resin but didn't dissolve. (weighing it down at the bottom of the water even more, it seems) Then I mixed it all up, hoping to separate the salt from resin and cause the resin to surface when it settled out.
It ended up being a great big mess, and I pretty much left it in the sun to cure for easy cleaning. Ended up with an ugly combination of resin chunks and salt splotches all over my work tray, thankfully not too much wasted resin. (and the cured resin came off everything nice and easy, thanks to the coating of salt on the outside of it.)
Clearly, the amount of salt to water needed will be a pretty important thing to the build instructions. (if not already in there)
hm, should i buy something like a conductivity meter?
(as example: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KSTZGNE?psc=1 )
Would this prevent me from wasting my resin?
I have a refractometer for my fish tank:
http://www.amazon.com/Temperature-Co...=refractometer
I plan on using that.
Typically here at peachy we just make saturated salt water, and then add a tiny bit (say 5 percent) of fresh water to that so that evaporation doesn’t cause the salt to precipitate out immediately.Quote:
Originally Posted by Feign
it dose take nearly saturated salt water to float subG and I haven’t played with subG+ much yet.
I think string the resin with water vigorously causes some chemicals to leach from the resin, into the water, and that makes the resin a bit less sensitive to light. This doesn’t seem to be a problem with resin that is just sitting on top the water for a few weeks.
resin that is less sensitive to light isnt necessarily a bad thing, it has pros and cons, for example less sensitive resin means you can use more laser power which means if your using a pwm laser you can use more of the lasers range of power.
more sensitive may allow you to print faster with a lower power laser that is safer for the human eye.
Ether way we have made calibration features in the software so you can get the printer working with a wide range of resin sensitivity’s.