E3DV6 revision for Clough42's Hexagon Cooling

So I am in the middle of a ton of PLA prints right now, and can't test this myself. Should anyone want to test it feel free i will be using it as soon as i get finished printing all these PLA parts.

I just finished modifying Clough's hexagon cooling system, that exhausts up at the gears away from the print, to be able to use the E3D V6. It uses the same X-carriage, and fan(you will have to order it.) I have included the carriage and servo mount in the zip just for completeness. It also includes an extended foot for auto bed leveling.

Once I'm able to test it and a few others verify it as well i'll be posting the files up for general consumption. Or if Clough wants he can post them i don't care for now i am just posting these for testing purposes.

Attachment 4649

I should add these have NOT been run through netfabb

and 1 piece i missed...

I ran everything through Netfab. No errors came up, though some pieces had to be rotated for easier printing. It'll be about a week before I can print them out and try it, though.

I might have them printed by then as well :-)

i'm down to i think 6 pieces i can print all at once monday of next week, almost done with my kossel parts

I get paid tomorrow, so I'll place the order then. I hate to use the insulating pad I got as part of the IBDE parts kit, maybe I can think of something else.

I've been using mine without one, and i have another printed for when it goes bad It's lasted quite a while though.

I have thought about messaging clough to just buy like a 5 pack of the insulating pads i don't mind paying for them just so i don't have to buy it in bulk

Aluminum..

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psxqttdhfh.jpg

Hey Beerdart, you ever consider selling any of those pretty aluminum parts?

That is sweet.

In regards to the insulating pad, can we use "header wrap" wrapped in kapton tape for that? The wrap I am finding on Amazon says it is good for over 1000 degrees F, is fairly inexpensive, and available in different widths.

Robert

Got a link to that? I was thinking about Checking out the local hardware store for something.

Here is one variant...

http://goo.gl/xItfGb

They are available in different widths and colors as well.

Robert

I had purchased to try, but never got around to installing, fiberglass mesh like that used in Bondo repairs. The thought was to try trimming a piece down to size and layering it in kapton as N5QM suggests.

I'm not familiar with the details of the clough42 cooling system, but I ultimately figured I didn't want to restrict airflow at all under the lowest fin on the hex heatsink by putting something like this there. I figured that was the most important area of the heatsink to ensure as much airflow as I could. I ended up just layering the aluminum block in kapton, and cut away the lower shelf of the stock hex cooling shroud.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by printbus

I had purchased to try, but never got around to installing, fiberglass mesh like that used in Bondo repairs. The thought was to try trimming a piece down to size and layering it in kapton as N5QM suggests.

I'm not familiar with the details of the clough42 cooling system, but I ultimately figured I didn't want to restrict airflow at all under the lowest fin on the hex heatsink by putting something like this there. I figured that was the most important area of the heatsink to ensure as much airflow as I could. I ended up just layering the aluminum block in kapton, and cut away the lower shelf of the stock hex cooling shroud.

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On clough's design the bottom of the heatsink is isolated from the heaterblock by the shroud and the kapton and fiberglass are used to protect the ABS from the heatblock

An alternative may be to wrap the hotend with the fiberglass/kapton. I found this as an example...

http://3dprintboard.com/attachment.p...tid=4720&stc=1

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...204_011225.jpg

There are a few model updates coming, I ended up using the Hexagon metal plate and that allowed me to use the original bolts with a minor tweak to the extruder body to allow the press fit connector to countersink into the body itself instead of requiring a shim. With the thinner metal plate being used the body of the E3D is slightly lower that originally intended, it fits but if you look at the pic the bottom fins are causing a very slight bow in the plastic, and lastly i forgot to cut out the entire horn dimensions in the ABL foot.

Electronics and initial prints are tomorrow then i will be printing the updated parts to check fit on them. I'll also take pics of the modification i did to the extruder body.

edit: Oh and i plan to implement a part cooling fan in the same general design as clough's as well once i have these parts finished. The hexagon part shroud wont work due to the height difference.

That looks quite nice! I am interested to hear what you think of the performance of the e3d vs the hex.

and... it "should" be done...
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ide%20view.png

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ont%20view.png

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ack%20view.png

all parts have been run through netfab, and i included some of clough42's original parts just to make life easier and things won't need to be hunted down. I can also report that the fan suggested for the hexagon hotend cools the E3D just fine using this method. If everything in this is printed it will produce the above design. I still have to print and test the part cooling fan shroud but it is otherwise complete and will be printed tomorrow.

Oh, also the mount plate, hot end shroud, and ABL foot all have been updated and corrected as well. I have printed the shroud, I'll print the foot with the part cooling shroud and try to get them installed tomorrow, but it may be next week.

My hat's off to clough! I had to learn how to reproduce the design for the shroud i hadn't really messed with lofts outside of the hot end fan shroud and that was a simple loft compared to this, but i managed :-) still a couple rough spots that are kinda hard to find but they are there... Doing this has definitely made me a better designer... now to bed...

I couldn't attach the file for some reason so here is a TinyUpload link to the files.

http://s000.tinyupload.com/index.php...34851980310233

OK, after much feedback from AbuMaia here is the latest version of the E3DV6 cooling system remixed from Clough42's Hexagon cooling system.

Download Link:
http://s000.tinyupload.com/index.php...76615418331363

Note: all required files have E3D at the beginning of the file name. There are also 2 different ABL feet, 1 marked XL in the filename for in case the other foot isn't quite long enough.

here are some pics of both the model and it installed on my own printer.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...3/E3Dfront.png

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...23/E3DLeft.png

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1.../E3DLeft_2.png

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...216_112438.jpg

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...216_112425.jpg

What are the differences you notice with the E3D vs the Hexagon?

less jams, mostly

I ordered mine today, so I will be able to help with testing, if you need it, once it shows up.

I have the E3DV6 installed with your revision of the cooling system and everything appears to be ok, except the duct which surrounds the cooling fins seems a little short by just 1-1.5mm. Thank you!

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800...537/42EgEg.jpg

We're trying to get the bottom of that duct to fit between the bottom two fins, so we don't have to use an insulating pad to keep it from melting.

Yup, i shortened it again in the cad program ill upload it when i get home but yeah it should fit between the bottom 2 fins.

Ohh... oops

How did you guys handle the PTFE tube?

Also the part cooling shroud even with kapton tape for insulation on the part closest to the heater block will sag... Im planning to shorten it just past the half moon cutout at the bottom. If needed you still get directed airflow if you carefully break it off after the part starts to sag

It fits ferfectly up a 3mm id extruder. I personally use the makerfarm extruder. You will need to drill the bottom of the extruder to allow for the black rung to recess into the extruder a little

Nice work, guys. I'm working on a version of the double extruder that will allow the use of E3D hot ends, and I'm wondering about airflow. How much does the E3Dv6 actually need? If the 25mm fan is enough to cool one, would it be enough to cool two if the airflow were tightly constrained to the fins? It's enough for the Hexagons, so it seems like it ought to work for the E3Ds, since we're dealing with the same amount of energy and the heat sinks are actually larger.

Also...Are you using 1.75mm filament and feeding it through a PTFE liner?

According to e3d docs it needs 4-5 cfm. I dont know that 1 fan will cut it for 2 but i would be willing to give it a shot i also have a second e3d on the way and i have a 2nd fan sitting here as a backup. I would suggest aiming for the shroud to go between the bottom 2 fins. There is much less height between the black and the sink than on the hexagon.

Ill also send you my .ipt originals for it if you want. Solidworks wont import the dimensions extrusions etc but it will at least be workable models.

Sorry i missed the last question.

I personally use the 1.75mm with the ptfe liner running all the way to the bottom of the hobbed bolt.

I use 1.75 with two separate ptfe tubes, one inside the extruder, and one inside the hotend.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by AbuMaia

I use 1.75 with two separate ptfe tubes, one inside the extruder, and one inside the hotend.

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I should probably do that... Its getting annouing pulling it apart everytime a nast jam happens or i need to try the next build

I am still having some jams with the V6, so I ordered some PTFE tubing today with an ID of 2.0mm to see if it helps.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Quote:

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Originally Posted by N5QM

I am still having some jams with the V6, so I ordered some PTFE tubing today with an ID of 2.0mm to see if it helps.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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i'm definitely curious on how this works out.

on a side note,

here is the most up to date files, the only thing that has changed is that the hot end shroud is about a half mm shorter to fit a little better.

http://s000.tinyupload.com/index.php...24344959027206

and for the adventurous, here is a slightly modified part cooling shroud that will hopefully fix the issue of it sagging, from the heater block heat even when wrapped in kapton.

http://s000.tinyupload.com/index.php...35346474031821

Once Abumaia verifies his build that will 2 confirmed working prints, not including me, this will be going up on thingiverse. I will also be asking C42 if i can post up a couple of his pieces so that it is all a solidified package.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by sniffle

I will also be asking C42 if i can post up a couple of his pieces so that it is all a solidified package.

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Knock yourself out. I released it under the Creative Commons - Attribution - Share Alike license, so you should be good to go. The best way to do the attribution is to mark it as a remix of my Thing. That way, people can navigate the tree, and your item will show up as a remix when people look at mine.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by clough42

Knock yourself out. I released it under the Creative Commons - Attribution - Share Alike license, so you should be good to go. The best way to do the attribution is to mark it as a remix of my Thing. That way, people can navigate the tree, and your item will show up as a remix when people look at mine.

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Thats what i planned to do :-) thanks C42, also i was wrong about how long i've had my E3DV6... i've had it a few days longer than when i started this post.

N5QM, as a quick question, are you printing in PLA? if so... try printing faster, if your using S3D under cooling limit how far it can slow the print down. PLA expands as it gets hot if it slows down too much heat starts creaping up into the heat break allow9ng the PLA to start expanding and eventually causes a jam. by printing faster your now allowing the PLA time to absorb the heat and expand. the other option is to turn down the heat, but then you run the risk of not melting the pla.

No, the only time I have jamming problems is with PETG and only after a bit if printing. I'm playing with increasing the temperature a bit to see what happens, I'll post an update when I have one. :-)

An update on my PETG issues...

I increased the temperature from 245 to 255 and then noticed the fins were rather warm, so I put the stock E3D fan on the unit and soo far, it seems to be working well.