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My Printer is back up and running and at the moment 1h and 22m into printing that leg again. To make it work I had to take the Y axis away from UART and run it in standalone. I have a bunch of stepper drivers. So I sorted out all the tmc2208 v3.0 stepper drivers I have. I actually have these prepped both ways. Some are standalone, some are UART. The way we quickly identify which are which is by flipping them over and looking at the small solder pads. Typically if there is no solder then the drivers are configured for standalone and UART or SPI required soldering jumpers across pads. In the below picture the Yellow arrows up top are pointing to the 2208 drivers configured for standalone and the bottom row has green arrows pointing to the soldered jumpers making the drivers ready for UART communications..
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/rCFKGu.jpg
With a pair of the correct standalone drivers selected I set the pot to 1.3v on each and put jumpers in ms1 & ms2. And made sure the dip switches for ms1 & ms2 were in the on position on the stepper driver expansion board. The one tmc2226 driver that was running the pair of steppers before was set in the firmware to 1.9v. Split in half that's 0.8 for each motor but now there is 0.5v more to each stepper and twice the surface area for cooling the driving circuit. I feel good about this and can't wait for the next 12 hours to pass to see if it makes it further than the last time. My electrical center is getting busy. I might have to redesign all this at some point. Or just upgrade that board to something with more stepper motor sockets..
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/922/FZei6b.jpg
At this point I am so happy I am finishing up building a coreXY. Oh I can't wait to finish it.
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why are you using such dense infill ?
If you use triagular infill and more walls/outlines you could cut the weight of the drastically and still keep them as strong.
the tringular infill is better at lateral stress than the honeycomg and also prints faster.
And again - delta - never any weight issues, no matter what you print.
Only three stepper motors to deal with. For larger machines - just use bigger steppers, never any need to double up.
One of the biggest deltas I've seen - about 10 feet by about 5 - was only using nema 23's and nothing special for belts. Looked like 6mm but was probably 10.
We were impresessed at just how basic it was.
https://3dprintboard.com/attachment....4&d=1538399634
https://3dprintboard.com/attachment....5&d=1538399716
As long as you measure accurately - even a home made delta is pretty easy to setup.
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Well because it has to hold up a heavy printer that is gonna shake about. It is only 10% infill. But 3 perimeters and 3 solid top and bottom layers. And printed with a 0.6mm nozzle and 0.4mm layer heights. And out of PETG of course. These legs need to be heavy and robust so the printer that sits atop them will be stable. I got the first one to finish. It is not perfect and it will be one of the back legs. But it is finished and good enough to be on the rig. In the end aside from the dual stepper drivers and the extra current to each motor I had to drop the acceleration down from 3000 to 1500 and change the JD value from 0.013 to 0.022. I did this in Marlin and wrote the new firmware to the SKR 1.4 turbo. There is a link to a nice math equation to help figure out the right JD value from known AJ and acceleration values. Something like D = 0.4 * AJ * AJ / acceleration. So now I am running that. To get the one leg I have finished I kept slowing down the print speed as the height built. All the way down to 70%. But it finished. 1 - 1.5 spools of filament. I have to weigh it but it should be somewhere in the neighborhood of 3lbs if not just a tad under. It is big and gonna pick my TronXY up off the ground..
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/923/a8ewxc.jpg
The last legs I had made stuck out 10mm past the extrusion on all sides. Ultimately this grew the overall dimensions of my printer by 20mm on each axis. This printer's frame is a bit wider than it is deep and so my redesigned legs are flush with the extrusion on the front and rear sides of the frame. Just so this machine will retain the ability to go in and out of doorways. The big hole in the middle of where the extrusion will sit is for access to the bolts that hold the Z smooth rods in place without disassembly of the legs..
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/cI4HJH.jpg
And there is even a hole on the bottom of my legs to screw in the original height adjustable TronXY rubber feet..
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/vOMjs9.jpg
The next leg is printing out now. More filament is on it's way. Hopefully I will be updating my coreXY thread soon.
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It is really turning out to be quite the mission getting these legs printed out. Aside from skipping steps with enough weight on the moving bed I have also been having these random filament jams at my expensive top end DD bondtech BMG/slice engineering Mosquito setup with the big 0.6mm nozzle. These jams are always easily cleared. I have to pull the filament out, I always cut back a length of filament and re insert and it goes without a problem. And then I had this jam and now I understand it is the dirt cheap ebay filament I am using..
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/NeshVR.jpg
I can not begin to describe my frustration with this as I am committed to using this specific filament at this point. Or start re-printing everything again. So I am applying the smart filament sensor to 'Big Red' and i needed to flash the latest firmware to my BTT tft35 v3.0. The new firmware has a cool new look to it..
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/923/vszIXp.jpg
The smart filament sensor should detect the jams and at least give me a chance or hope to finish this project. My gosh I have never had such a time trying to print something. Big warning to any and all reading this. The ebay ad I bought from did not specify any kind of tolerance to the filament. So not only do I not have a leg to stand on for a return but honestly I got what I deserved for not specifically looking for that tolerance and seeing what it claims. Bad Autowiz!!
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I actually designed a simple filament sensor that will trigger on oversized filament (or kinked ends of filament as commonly found one sun spools). May be worth a shot if the smart filament sensor doesn’t catch them in time.
https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints...resence-sensor
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Pretty cool. You need to update your design to include an encoder wheel spun by the moving filament and a sensor that can read pulses from said encoder wheel so that if the filament jams on the other side of your sensor it will still trigger. The 'smart' filament sensor is big and bulky and has 3 wheels where it could surely survive with 2 so there is definitely room for improvement. Go rework your idea into something on par with the day, kid. Like one of these: Filament sensor - Collections - gordonmuvesz - Thingiverse
Show me something that can see the filament moving and when it stops and is smaller and lighter than the smart filament sensor and I might be impressed. But so far as I know nobody in this industry has been impressed with them microswitches for a while now. But a hall effect sensor that can generate pulses every x amount of filament travel, now that is something to behold in the realm of filament runout detection. Wouldn't you agree?
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The way to do that would be to adapt something like the Pat9125 from Prusa. The code already exists, and you don't need an encoder wheel. Just place a bearing against the filament and read the bearing directly (Don't try and read the filament directly though, that doesn't work well).
E.g.: https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints...t-mk3-filament
I thought about doing that again, but I don't get jams in the nozzle often enough to care. Not too sure what Marlin's support for the Pat9125 is either.
The issue with these is generally the detection length. The few millimeters required to detect the stoppage is also often enough to cause problems, especially when separated by a decent length bowden/filament feed tube.
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So that issue is more for you guys with the little nozzles and tiny layer heights. With the big 0.6 and 0.8mm nozzle diameters and the thick 0.4-0.6mm layer heights let me tell you that 1.75mm diameter filament moves pretty darn fast in relation to the extruder sliding around on X and Y.
On the filament side there is 7mm worth of filament travel required to trigger a pulse.
I guess if we were printing something small enough and at like <1mm layer height we might even get into whole layers before a pulse gets missed. But I'd say overall the BTT sensor has pretty good resolution..
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/922/2BTPck.png
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I am so happy with the new look on this tft firmware update. Really..
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/k69cMy.jpg
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It is entirely too busy on the rear of this printer. I just received the BTT UPS 24v v1.0. This device is a small board with a bunch of capacitors on it and upon loosing power this will store enough energy and send a signal to lift Z so when I resume after power failure the print will not be melted. I still have a real battery backup UPS (600watt) but this is an extra layer of protection for them long prints. Anyways I have no idea where I am gonna mount this. My electrical is real busy. It was always busy..
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/CLxTSd.jpg
But now it is real busy and there is not a lot of space left to keep adding small boards..
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/922/FZei6b.jpg
So with 7 stepper motors being used on this printer I actually have a genuine need for the BTT Octopus v1.1. No more splitters or expansion boards. UART communication for all axes. And a 180mhz processor to boot. We now wait on shipping. The Octopus is awesome for many of reasons besides 8 stepper drivers supported. It also supports 6 pwm controlled fans that all have their own jumpers to tie them to 5v, 12v, or 24v power. This board looks awesome by the specs. Seriously. And I can not wait to get it. I bought mine from ebay where I got free shipping but here is a link to the board from Biqu with all the details: BIGTREETECH Octopus V1.1 – Biqu Equipment
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wow that board's a big sucker !
Good price though.
That's longer than the mini itx boards I tend to use for workshop projects.
You can usually pick up a board, intel core I3 cpu and 2-4gb ram for £30
Throw in a small psu and cheap ssd and you've got a nice cheap multipurpose compact computer.
here's a question - I keep seeing klipper mentioned and sounds good,. But It always seems to be in coop with octoprint.
I have no interest in running a r-pi board for the printers.
So is klipper a proper standalone firmware - or just something that has to talk to a pi board ?
only 10% infill ?
wow looked a lot denser than that.
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Tracking shows the first Octopus v1.1 I ordered is inside the country so I should have it soon. In the runup to getting this board I wanted to get my BTT UPS up and going. It is a bank of capacitors that stores a little charge and gives the printer just enough time to lift Z so we don't burn and melt the print and can resume after power loss. Unfortunately what I am learning in practice is that now when I shut off the power switch the power very slowly leaves the printer as the capacitors drain. So my power switch now needs to become a DPST switch that can cut the 120v line and also the +24v wire from the capacitor bank. The annoyance of what it is to power cycle my printer now is absolutely unbearable. So it is time for changes. Here is my busy electrical center..
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/923/DiDoXr.jpg
Would I really zip tie a circuit board to a power cord? Why not? I mean they do rhyme don't they?
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/vQprFq.jpg
And here we are back down to the tray. Those standoffs are gonna be incompatible for the Octopus. I am just not sure if I am gonna make an adaptor or remake the whole tray..
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/922/pjZBZn.jpg
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Still waiting on the Octopus to arrive but the dimensions are posted on the website I bought the board from and So I was able to make the new mainboard tray based off of that..
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/922/XU6GEv.jpg
The top is the old tray. The bottom left was supposed to be the replacement but I am really not happy with the translucent red I got. It does not match the rest of the parts I printed for this rig so I reprinted it in black and that is what I will use. The mainboard should be here in today's mail or tomorrow.
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Well the board is big for sure. But dammit does this look so much better. Just a clean look. This is my new board. 180mhz and all the bells and whistles. All of them. This is the board that will be in the TronXY and that board will be arriving in a few days. But for now I got some more wiring to do. I am very pleased with my mount design so far also..
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/Pf3FR2.jpg
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Curse this mania. Ya know. I just wanted to wire in a new mainboard and get back to printing out them legs for the CoreXY which is the printer I am trying to be building on right now. But I have this octopus going in and I only want to wire it up once and I am gonna now have enough stepper drivers for it and I ordered a second smart filament sensor for the CoreXY I haven't used yet and I have an extra Bondtech BMG extruder and I think I'm going to convert Big Red to be an IDEX. There is so much room for it with the bed turned sideways like it is. Mission creep has set in again..
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/923/2eL9Iv.jpg
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Well alright so the actual conversion is gonna be painfully simple I think. I made some new motor mount brackets for X. Gonna move one motor up a bit and put a long bolt through the bracket for the idler. Here is the motor mount I drew up for one side..https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/qJeNgh.pngThe other side will look similar but 4 bolt holes will be in a different location.
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Well alright. So here is one of the new X motor mounts..
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/hSvnmY.jpg
Now we just gotta make the other side upside down from that, get some idler pulleys on the studs and get on to drawing up some carriages for them BMG extruders.
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Well alright. So now we just need to make them carriages and attach them belts..
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/7smvCY.jpg
Oh I also moved the power switch up to the front of the rig just above the touchscreen. It used to be in the back with the power receptacle and it was always a thing to reach around and under the bed to turn the power on and off. Now that is fixed as well.
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First carriage is done and I am happy with it. This will be the main carriage with the BLtouch..
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/922/ZM6lSr.jpg
These carriages have to be narrow enough to not limit or restrict the size of my X axis. I think I am good with this design and the other side will look very much like it less the BLtouch..
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/0RlPrb.jpg
I do not think I will such an awesome fan for the other side. And to be honest this fan was supposed to be for my LGX extruder going in the TronXY. But I really like it and I will hunt down another fan and shroud for the TronXY later..
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/923/1oQDBM.jpg
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And here is my asymmetrical IDEX. On the left is a Mosquito with BMG-M extruder and on the right is a generic v6 heatsink with E3D heater block and temp cartridge and a regular BMG extruder. Both have genuine E3D 0.9 degree pancake stepper motors that came out of genuine Titan extruders I bought in projects past. I still have to make some pieces to bolt the cable chains to and get the belts installed and then get it all wired and programmed so I am not done by any means but I have 2 extruders on one gantry and that is progress..
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/923/w413uo.jpg
And I did not design the mount for the fans on the v6 heatsink. I used the easy button and took to Thingiverse and searched for something that fit my needs. I was impressed with and used this design for that. It saved me time and is a really good design and I got it right here:
Thing files for v6 Hotend Fan Shroud and 5015 + 40 Fang Combo by JamesK1 - Thingiverse
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I was really not happy with the motor and idler mounts. They looked real big and blocky. I am now on the third version of them. I at least like these better even though they might not be the final parts used..
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/GYiTno.jpg
I am close. Now I just have to make the mounts for the cable chains on the rear of each extruder and get this bad boy wired up. And hopefully between now and then I will find some type of info on setting this up in Marlin.
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I am down to just getting these cable chains connected. Instead of one I will now need two. One will be on top of the other. Then we can focus on setting up a clean electrical system. Almost there..
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/922/bR9tea.jpg
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Well OK we can cross IDEX cable chains off the list. They came out great and I am very pleased with them..
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/F8DVPF.jpg
One last thing I need to do before wiring is I need to get end stops mounted for both extruders. I have a cool idea for end stops..
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For the endstops it is important to me that they are the same part. Same sensor for both X and Y and only the Z probe should be a different sensor. And I am able to create this because I saved the original Z endstop from the Tevo Black widow. I never used this sensor. It is brand new. But it is the same as X and Y. So I have 3 matched sensors. Y is attached to the extrusion under the bed and reads a bolt sticking down from the bed carriage. Both X sensors are going to read the back side of the extruder stepper motors. My IDEX will be all touchless homing.. https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/EegbcQ.jpgNow we just gotta get this all wired u,..... wait. I need 2x filament spool and smart filament sensor mounts still. And then we can wire it up. And then we can work on getting Marlin setup for this. We are getting there.
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cool a diy ideax.
So how does the board know where the two extrduers are at any given moment ?
So they don't crash into each other ?
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Ya. This printer always should have been an IDEX. I think you made a comment on that subject a while back, CA. I have been posting in F.B. groups hoping to find others with a Marlin running IDEX in hopes of finding that easy button but so far no joy. I will cross that bridge when I get there. I have a min and max endstop for X so one extruder will home to the min and the other will home to the max. And I think one should home before the other moves but ATM I just think. I am also trying to run 2 smart filament sensors so there is gonna be a curve to getting all this programmed. I am almost there. The spool mounts are drawn up one is printed out and the mirrored version is printing now. Then we gotta mount the smart sensors and wire it all up. So close.
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Because I am using the smart filament sensors I have to run a ptfe tube from the sensor to the DD extruder. This is not a bad thing as it allows me to mount the filament spools down low where they are as easy to get to as humanly possible..
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/hKKESA.jpg
Speaking of which I still have to mount those two filament sensors before I start running wires. brb
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Well there is one more thing that I am now thinking about. I want to put some kind of light on this printer. This rig has been dark since the last Multi Widow rework. And then we can wire. But here is everything else with the smart filament sensors in place..
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/jrknpr.jpg
Now where to put some lights...
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Christmas tree lights would be cool - with all the effects :-)
It's a smart looking beast and no mistake !
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Buddy I like the way you think. I'm gonna do it..
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/LxLXFL.png
I wonder if it will let me change the color when the print starts or ends? That would be cool, no?
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Well now I have to wait for some rgb lights. But also I am waiting for a some Capricorn tubing so I can get rid of that white length of ptfe. Guess I can get started on running wires while waiting for the rgb leds..
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/922/jKflYZ.jpg
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Sunday fun. Building harnesses stuffing them in cable chains and building a clean and coherent electrical system for my new large format IDEX. Kinda large format anyways. 400x250x330 actual build volume. Still got a little ways to go..
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/923/jN5UYU.jpg
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Time to share. For anybody interested I have posted all the files I drew for this effort to thingiverse free for any and all to download right here: Tevo Black Widow IDEX Conversion by AutoWiz - Thingiverse
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The printer is all back together. It looks great. One last thing I might do is angle the smart filament sensors forward a bit so the PTFE hoses do not get pinched or pulled. But overall I am very happy with it..
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/922/rP006c.jpg
I always loved this printer because of the huge extrusions it was made from. It is such a robust platform to build with..
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/zf6CPS.jpg
This is so much cleaner now. every stepper motor has its own driver and no driver expansion boards or splitters. Just one board and a clean coherent electrical system..
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/923/8ORJPv.jpg
Marlin is up to 2.0.9.1 and that be the version I am working on setting up for the Octopus v1.1. Hopefully Big Red here will be back to printing soon. I still want to finish my large format CoreXY build.
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I know it's crass - but any idea how much that has cost you so far ? (knowing you, the ruby tipped nozzles will be added at some point, probably when you realise how much better than pet-g nylon with carbon fibre is ;-)
But it's certainly a handsome looking beast !
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In both money and time this machine represents a lot. I did not skip out on a second Mosquito on this because of cost. I am using a v6 j head under the bondtech BMG extruder on the secondary extruder so there is a bit of vertical adjustment. That is I can unscrew the heatbreak from the heatsink a little and give myself a few mm worth of meaningful Z adjustment between the 2 extruders in my IDEX. Otherwise I would have 2 Mosquitos on this rig.
I can try some nylon with carbon fiber as soon as I get this up and running. I was unimpressed with the 2 pc design of the Ruby nozzle. I have read horror stories about such an expensive part having a temp differential between the metal of the nozzle and the ruby tip. I have also read about the ruby tip cracking. It is certainly the most expensive nozzle out there. But I am on the fence about it being the best. The vanadium nozzle in my Mosquito comes with a lifetime warranty from Slice engineering against any type of abrasion wear. The v6 J head has a Micro swiss plated nozzle that is hardended but definitely less than that ruby. Both are 0.6mm.
And thank you. Hopefully this will all dial in ok and I will get to leave it alone for a while and just print stuff with it. But I mean how far down that road can I possibly get before I just become bored to the point of tears?
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lmao - and at that point you'll remember the little nagging voice in the back of your head that's been whispering:
Build a really big delta and print full sized people...
So come on: $1000, 2, 3, 4 ?
I vaguely remember the rails coming close to $1000 on their own.
Go on you can tell me, your wife's definitely not looking ;-)
I mean if you really want a project - buy a k40 and turn it into something truly spectactular !
The 40 watt co2 laser is a full on deathray !
But the rest of the machine is just horrible.
You'd love it !!!!!
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Honestly I am pretty sure I have sunk somewhere between 3 and 4 into this. But over the years. And since early 2017. The printer itself with the BLtouch was just over $600. The rails were a grand. The BMG/Mosquito setup was over $400. The MMU2S was $350. The Meanwell SE 600 24v power supply was $130. I have been through so many different mainboards, screens, drivers, and extruders. 32 pages worth at this point. And then there is hardware and filaments. I spent a chunk on separate whacks with ebay for wires, bolts, nuts, t slot nuts, and I bought the translucent red PETG filament 2 or 3 spools at a time.
One big thing I have learned along the way is that all parts are not created equally. And the name brand parts are made with better quality materials but also with better machining qualities. We should all pause for thought about reworking that $200 printer with the extra $150 we have in our savings account. I mean how much better could that be? If not just a placebo that makes us feel like it prints better because we spent time with it.
I still want to build a large delta. And I have given a lot of thought about trying to print out the largest Lego man I can. With the TronXY That would be a big dude. This guy is already scaled up 5x and I would scale it up to the max dimensions of the tronXY: Lego Man Figure by papajohnfuller - Thingiverse
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New Marlin is cool, BTW. 2.0.9.1 lets you command multiple baud rates. That's new. Different speeds for different serial connections. I'm gonna be here for a while. This rework has all the 'bolt-ons' from BigTreeTech. Aside from the 2 smart filament sensors there is also the ESP-12S wifi module and the 24v UPS that is supposed to keep the machine powered on for a few seconds after power loss and raise the nozzle. I have a lot of configuring to do.
This Octopus has so many inputs it just lists them all with numbers rather than to label anything with a specific designation. So there is no X motor. It is motor 0 - motor 7. However motor 2 has 2 outputs motor 2_1 and motor 2_2 so I guess if I were to run dual Z off one driver that would be the way. I am not connecting my dual Z that way and each stepper has it's own driver.
The fans are the same way. They are not labeled for extruder fan or case fan or layer fan or anything. There are just so many fan connectors on this board they are just labeled cnc fan 0-5 and then fan 6 and fan 7. And they all have separate jumpers to link them to 5, 12, or 24v power.
Even the endstops. There are 6 endstop headers with 2 3 pin headers for filament detection. This board is just so awesome. It is well worth all the time it is gonna take me to get this firmware right. I made this legend as I was wiring to help me with the firmware..
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/922/0jTQRm.jpg
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And in Marlin under the configuration adv.h tab is the section I need to enable and configure to make the magic happen..
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/922/i5OKh9.png
There is actually a lot more but this directly enables what I am trying to do and what I just built. I still haven't seen a way to run 2 smart filament sensors or to link each one to an extruder. But I still have so much more to dig through here.