When I use "homing the axes", the nozzles assembly hits the margins on x axis... When I unpacked the printed I found this grey wire that is not connected to anything... maybe this is the reason?!?!:confused:
Printable View
When I use "homing the axes", the nozzles assembly hits the margins on x axis... When I unpacked the printed I found this grey wire that is not connected to anything... maybe this is the reason?!?!:confused:
I found the problem: Y switch was loose from factory or maybe transport. :)
It almost always ends up being the wiring or switch, regardless of which axis... :p
On my Flashforge Pro, I'm having trouble with things sticking. (Not a new problem, I know.) Recently, I did a large print and it REALLY stuck. In getting it off, the tape on the bed came off in a couple spots so I have a few bubbles. I am looking at ordering new kapton tape from Amazon and just want to confirm that the Flashforge came with tape pre-applied and what I am seeing is bubbles in that kapton tape. So, the best thing is for me to remove that tape and apply new. Am I right?
You can remove and replace or you can just patch it. Do not be enthusiastic and fool yourself into thinking it is better with the widest tape you can. If you buy the really wide tape it is an absolute dog to stick on straight. Stick with the 1 inch wide or 2 inch at the most or you will be teaching your printer to fly before you get it on straight.
My Creator Pro came with Kapton tape pre-applied... and also with 2 blue pre-cut, thick plastic sheets similar to BuildTak surface. I am using these sheets and they seem to react pretty good. I had a print that was stuck. I heated the platform again, the support became flexible and it was much easier to remove.
:o
It looks to me like the bed has kapton tape pre-applied but before I tried to remove it, I wanted to be sure that I wasn't misunderstanding and making a big mistake. I think I'm going to order this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LAJ...=AC_SY200_QL40 unless someone can suggest something better. In the meanwhile, I guess I'll try the blue scotch tape. I tried it once and initially the filament all balled up as a print started. I assume that it was because I didn't readjust the bed height with the tape on it, so I'll tape and readjust.
I got this Flashforge around the first of the year and have been experimenting with it. Sometimes I get great results, sometimes not. I may be spending more time here asking questions. Thanks!
Hey I got a quick question for all you flash forge wizzes, I just got a creator pro, had been printing with a rep 1 for a few years. Everything seems to work great with maker ware software but as the print starts it doesn't start extruding filament for a few seconds. I know there is a simple fix for this but I can't seem to find it. Does it have something to do with retraction settings. Also what software are most people using? Makerware, cura etc? Thanks.
I wonder if anyone can help here. Had a nozzle blockage so removed the nozzle and cleared that, no issues there. But on reassembling I noticed the heater block appeared loose and rotates. I managed to fit the nozzle OK but can't figure out how the heater block is secured? I've removed the extruder assembly from the carriage and found the set screw at the rear, that appears tight and it seems that the heater block is loose on the small piece that connects it to the horizontal bar. How is the heater block secured to that? I can rotate it clockwise and anticlockwise within the limits of the attached heater and thermistor cables and it doesn't feel like it's tightening. Is this piece threaded?
Confused!!
We recently got a Creator Pro at work and have the same issue. Our issue though is only on the left print head. It also makes a clicking noise but only before starting the build. When pre heating or loading material it works fine and doesn't make a clicking noise. We have been using Simplify 3D because of all the tools available in that software, it's well worth the $150 price tag. We have Stratasys Dimension printer as well and the cost to use the Flashforge is way cheaper. We machined a spacer for the z axis and use glass plates for our build surface. We have about 5 glass plates that we have ready to swap out when a build finishes. We coat the plates with 3 coatings of Sauve Hairspray and it works great for PLA and ABS. the parts stick well (plate becomes tacky when heated up) and when the plate cools, the part pops off its self (when the plate has cooled down enough) so we don't even need to apply pressure.
All resolved now. The grub screw had scored the tube so it was well and truly jammed in the metal bar. Managed to get it off, cleaned up the bits and re-assembled. Jobs a good 'un.
I have a PowerSpec 3D Pro and was having the same issue with only the left head. I have been using the latest version of MakerBot Desktop and decided to give one of the older versions of MakerWare a try. I am using version 2.4.0.14 and it does not pause at the end of the prime and start clicking like it does with the MakerBot Desktop. You might want to give the older version of MakerWare a try real quick to see if you have the same experience.
I just got a FF Creator Dual rebrand from Monoprice. I'm trying to print an 8" long part from the right extruder, but it does not print the left 2". It appears to print the sled for the right 6" OK, and then starts printing some part of the left 2", but that is just a stringy mess.
Is this a limitation of the machine? I used Makerware 2.4.? and chose the Replicator Dual machine to print from the SD card. This part has printed successfully multiple times on a Replicator 2.
It should not be a problem. I suspect your bed is either not level or not flat.
I spent a lot of time leveling the bed. It is as level as I can make it.
Why would the bed make it not even try to print the left 2" until it is done with the sled for the right 6"?
IME, when printing a sled, it usually prints the whole thing one layer at a time.
Geoff
Wanted to thank you for all of your troubleshooting information. it was very helpful.
I am probably not understanding what you have written
I read it as an 8 inch long thing that starts printing 2 inches from the left side printing to the right for six inches then going back and printing the two inches on the left where that two inches didn't stick to the bed but did extrude OK.
Is Z dropping after the six inches on the right? If so I would suspect your slicer.
If not then I would suspect a non flat bit where the bed is dipping away from the extruder.
Try a different slicer.
No prob.
No, it prints the right 6" of the sled, w/o even trying to print the left 2"Quote:
I read it as an 8 inch long thing that starts printing 2 inches from the left side printing to the right for six inches then going back and printing the two inches on the left where that two inches didn't stick to the bed but did extrude OK.
After printing the right 6" of the sled, it tries to print something in the left 2" but it does not stick.
How would I determine that?Quote:
Is Z dropping after the six inches on the right?
The bed is a little warped, but not greatly. I thought a sled could compensate for that.Quote:
If so I would suspect your slicer.
If not then I would suspect a non flat bit where the bed is dipping away from the extruder.
Something better than Makerware? What?Quote:
Try a different slicer.
Since Makerware is applying the sled, and the left 2" is missing, would that be a fault of the slicer?
Who knows, look at the Gcode and see if it makes sense.
Finally my dream materialized in the form of the FlashForge Dreamer. Unfortunately, it is impossible to get great result without spending lots of time choosing and fine-tuning slicers. So I was wandering if there are some magical settings or guidelines to follow that could help cutting the amount and time of unsuccessful attempts. For instance, I'm on the 4th hour of trying to print with ABS 0.15mm model with Skeinforge, but the fiber (or however you call the extruded plastic) is tearing and curling up after the rafter is printed (no problem there), and actual model is supposed to print. I was raising the temperature from 220 to 245, now I dialed down the speed from 60 to 30 mm/s. Hope it will work.
Well... it didn't. Slic3r could print, but Skeinforge was constantly tearing the fiber until I changed the resolution back to 0.2mm
Hey guys, Im having trouble with my ff creator pro. Just recently it started skipping. I have no idea whats going on or how to fix it. I already tried everything i could possibly think of. I have made sure the bed is leveled about 100 times. I have raised the temperature to 250 and nothing. So I took the extruder apart to clean out any junk, I cleared everything i could find. I took off the nozzle as well and left it in acetone over night and cleaned it out completely, with a pin and a guitar string. There is absolutely no residue that i can see. I put it back together and it still skips. I dont know what to do its driving me crazy lol. Im getting ready to call customer support but decided to go on here for any advice? Thanks in advance!
Ps I started with the PLA that it comes with and switched to a brand of ABS that i purchased on amazon, it was working fine with both without problem, than I tried flashforge ABS and that's when it all went down hill. I know Geoff on here had the same issue. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks again
Hello,
i just got my printer a month or so ago, and wanted to say hello. this thread has been incredibly helpful with it. though i did have some questions, does anyone know a userfriendly program for makeing STL files that you can print? i have never learned CAD and most of the programs i have tried to date, have quiet a steep learning curve to them. Secondly, i have used the printer to make the halo helmet off of thingiverse in parts, and am curious if anyone has used Pepikura files and printed them in the 3D printer.
I've been using SketchUp, but it is rather annoying. Esp the way it jumps after zooming and the lack of native poly curve editing. But there are a lot of plugins which are fairly powerful.
Others use OpenSCad, which I'm planning to try. Seems 123D Design may be the easiest for beginners.
Welcome, I've been using 123D for the last week or so. There are lot's of tut's on the web...
Thanks a ton, i was actually torn between open s cad, and 123D, while i have been useing Sketchup myself, it is ok for simple stuff, but doesnt quiet do what i want it to. Thanks again!
I have a Flashforge Dreamer and have had great results for the last few months. I have three questions:
1. Is there a definitive tutorial to printing with both extruders? I use Simplify3D.
2. I just started getting in cad drawing and have gotten started with TinkerCard. Any other suggestions for easy-to-use software for a relative beginner? This is my first only creation so far: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/5Rb...iphone-6-stand
3. I find that the Dreamer prints a little slow no matter how I adjust the settings. Any suggestions?
Thanks so much for the great input from this group, it's been very helpful.
Cheers,
Alex
Thanks for the in depth thread on the flashforge, i feel much better knowing that there are other people out there who run into some of the same issues i have had, and alot of what i have read, has made me alot more proficient with my printer. however i have run into an issue, i know i need to calibrate my printer, however i am not sure how to do this, i am running makerbot makerware (which recognizes my flashforge) for printing, and so far things have worked well for the most part, but i would like to start printing in better detail and need to calibrate it to do so. any help with this would be amazing!
I have this issue also. The fix that works for me is as follows:
1.) Close Replicator G and turn off printer.
2.) Open Replicator G.
3.) Turn on printer and wait for it to load up and sing it's song and such.
4.) Connect printer via USB and then press "Connect" button. If it worked your "pink" banner should turn green in Replicator.
Please let me know if this does or doesn't work for you. Best of luck to you.
I posted on the first, does anyone know how to calibrate the nozzels and extruders on the Flashforge Creator Pro?? i would rather not start tinkering blindly in my machine if i can help it.