Well the male/female socket looked pretty good, but couldn't be put together, the female end broke when I tried to put them together.
Printable View
Well the male/female socket looked pretty good, but couldn't be put together, the female end broke when I tried to put them together.
I think I found the issue, I forgot to calibrate the X/Y axis, so it was elongated. I ran through the calibration process on the galvo and aligned everything MUCH better. It was computer generated before based on everything being symmetric.
I may have found another issue, either my power supply is bad or the supply they shipped is on the verge of being powerful enough. It is a 2.7amp supply @ 24v, and maybe the BBB wireless is using a bit more power than the BBB (non-wireless), but I seem to crash periodically. Thankfully never during a print, but I'm going to see about upgrading my power supply.
Today my supply is working better. I'm working on making a few gifts for my daughter for the holidays. She loves sharks so I picked out a few things from thingiverse and am trying to print them. So far I did a shark. I'm not using supports, so I ran into an issue that to secure the print to the build plate I run the laser at 8x time for the first 8 layers. That's a bit too conservative and I think I'm going to start trying to cut that down. I have the shark comb in my UV box, when it comes out I'll take a picture of it. You'll be able to see the over exposure from the first few layers. I'll also keep notes posted for each print. Some of them I used supports and some I did not. I didn't like the supports I was seeing in slic3r and that is what I'm currently using, for better or worse.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/v4sj9ecdb...k%20gifts?dl=0
I put a new power supply on my printer and the Z axis runs very differently, the good news however is that I can just unplug the power cord from the outlet and not also the printer, then plug into the outlet, then into the printer as my old one did. I wonder if the zaxis will end up working differently for different power supplies. Could also be the reason I was having issues previously. May likely do some improvement on the x-axis in the future as well.
Note: the calibration file has tuning values for the zaxis, I'll tweak them this evening after this print completes. Hopefully if I can reinvent the zaxis code it won't vary from machine to machine or power supply to power supply, or whatever the issue might be that I'm having.
Most everything without supports prints nicely, anything with supports fails. I either need to figure out supports in slic3r or try a new slicing tool.
meshmixer (free) will add supports to an STL file, independently of the slicer
Thanks I used that and was able to print the flying shark finally. I was also reading other forums that recommended mesh mixer. The other forums also used Cura, but I liked slic3r because it could run on the BBB.
I have been having issues with the wireless BBB black and am thinking of switching back to the wired version.
I passed the flying shark picture online unfortunately I'm not a photographer so my pictures don't do justice to the prints. They aren't perfect but I think pretty good.
Things seem to work pretty nicely on the prints I made for my daughter for the holidays. I am seeing some issues where it appears a print after a period breaks off the build plate and sticks to the VAT. I've seen this before many times, but I've never found a solution. I've seen it in cavities without air relief (it likely makes a vacuum) as well as prints that are solid as they print and the newly printed layers are larger than the top layer on the VAT. I've tried a number of things to fix this, but so far I haven't found a robust solution.
I started using meshmixer to add supports instead of using slic3r; which I have not had success with supports yet. I've found it does good for the raft/brim layers, but other than that it didn't do a good job for supports.
Wish, still busy; our boiler stopped working last week and I didn't get to diagnose it until Friday, but got the part today and we have heat and hot water again (woohoo!). My wifes job has picked up so I've been minding the little one more at night so I haven't had much of free time to do anything. At this point waiting for feedback, comments, and suggestions. I'll take suggestions for items to try to print.
Hey doobie I think its awesome that you are working on making the pegasus work for people who wont or cant work with FSL. I admist this is my first time workign with a BBB and ive gotten all the way through the install doc you provided up until compiling the laser. the compile command seems to pull a zaxis.p that doesnt exist anywhere for me yet.
Is there anyway to help make it a little more clear for a complete newbie on this board like myself?
Sorry, I'm wicked busy and haven't really done much on this project. at some point I might find more time, but my resources are limited at this time.
Hi doobie, I just got a pegasus touch a couple weeks ago that was not used anymore. I would be interested in running it with your open source firmware to try different settings for the resins. With stock machine resins keeps staying uncured.
Could you tell me if you have any update since the commit from February 2017?
I have the BBB (ethernet not wireless) running, but as meryan00 pointed compile laser calls for a z-axis.p that is not present. I am not very familiar with pasm, but if you could point me toward a solution I could do some work and push it to the repo if I can help.
Looking next lines, dbg_zaxis.c does not seem to exist either.
pasm -b zaxis.p ../bin/zaxis
gcc -o ../bin/dbg_zaxis dbg_zaxis.c -lprussdrv -lm
I would love to make this thing work!
When I had time for this project not many people were interested, my printer isn't up and running now, but I have fixed some of the code as well as some others were providing updates/cleaning things up. That particular fix should be corrected, so if you pull the code again you should get the fix.
So turned it on after 3 years this thing an fsl3d real crap. And it started this message then turns off and does it again until it just goes black screen.
Any luck on the custom program?
Otherwise its a $5k paperweight! Fsl3d has no parts wont give up where to get them and going to charge $100 to "try" to reflash.
Dont even know if the board is good!
My Pegasus Touch is still in the box as it was shipped back to me for a firmware upgrade (under warranty, minus shipping) a few years ago. With all the stuff I've been reading here, I don't know if it will ever be opened again.