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Yes, search for HOMING_FEEDRATE and you will find it.Quote:
Originally Posted by tsteever
Happy to say that my homing issues are now solved, I have printed about 4 prints and have not had to mess with homing at all. Normally I would have to screw with it every single print.
I changed this line of code in the configuration_ad.h file to move the z a bit higher up and the z and y a bit more during the second move step in the homing sequence. This did help a bit. I just thought I would repost.
//homing hits the endstop, then retracts by this distance, before it tries to slowly bump again:
#define X_HOME_RETRACT_MM 10
#define Y_HOME_RETRACT_MM 10
#define Z_HOME_RETRACT_MM 2
//#define QUICK_HOME //if this is defined, if both x and y are to be homed, a diagonal move will be performed initially.
Somewhere in one of the tabs was the move rate/divided by something but I cannot find it. I will keep digging.
The homing feed rate is in the configuration.h file
Also Colin already has the updated firmware uploaded. Here is the link to download it.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B80...ew?usp=sharing
Again this is for the Rumba board.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tsteever
Hah, just read through the beginning of this post and noticed how many other people have already given variations of my diatribe. Sorry to belabor the issue, just trying to adjust your expectations.
The best advice I can give you is read this book. It's a great resource to fill in much of the background knowledge you need. As for the specific problem you have most recently been posting about (stringy warped ugly prints), that looks related to bed leveling, heat, speed, and extruder settings. Your hot end is too hot, you're over extruding, you're going too fast, and the bed isn't level. Try this, in this order:Quote:
Originally Posted by tsteever
1) Use Cura.
2) Re-level your bed. Only clip the glass down on one side to keep the glass level. Stop using paper/etc, and pick up some feeler guages. When using the guages, stay between .03-.2mm of space depending on the material and adhesion supplement.
3) Turn down the heat and the speed. For ABS, go down to about 225°C and set the speed slider to its slowest. If the print doesn't stick to the bed, extruder jams, or print is weak and easily breaks apart then raise the temp in 5° increments until that issue is fixed.
4) Now work on your extruder settings. Start with measuring filament and calculating esteps, then move on to whitemousegary's method.
5) Go back and repeat 2 & 3.
Do all of those steps, print lots of tests playing around with slice settings and then do it all again.
There is no speed slider per say. Can you give me some target numbers to shoot for?
I did some experimenting with Cura and used these values. The top layer looks better but the bottom layer isn't solid. Before printing I did measure and check that when zero'd the bed is touching the glass. I then commanded the z to move to .5mm and I measured this using my feeler gauges. The distance was .5 at 4 corners and in the middle.
My suspicion is some of the things I did to make a nice top layer have also changed the bottom layer so that it isn't nice and solid.
http://3dprintboard.com/attachment.p...tid=4991&stc=1http://3dprintboard.com/attachment.p...tid=4992&stc=1http://3dprintboard.com/attachment.p...tid=4993&stc=1http://3dprintboard.com/attachment.p...tid=4994&stc=1http://3dprintboard.com/attachment.p...tid=4995&stc=1
I think you would be better off printing some calibration objects instead of actual parts. That way you can follow a guide on what you need to do to improve the parts and calibration of your printer/software. Otherwise you will be chasing your tail.
I use this set of calibration objects and followed the guide in the instructions on thingiverse
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5573
There are a lot of other tips out there for getting your machine to print well but until you have your base layer nailed down and your extrusion rate figured out you are just guessing.
When I calibrated my Esteps I tried to follow a the guide listed here on the forum but it wasn't even close when I calculated it based off of that guide. I ended up finding that 1 estep change =.22233 mm in extrusion length change. My esteps ended up at 878 "was 841 originally"
Quote:
Originally Posted by tsteever
Your best way to adjust how the bottom looks is to play with your Z offset. If you want it squished more, reduce that offset. If those prints ran with 0.5mm offset, I would try 0.47 and play with it until you're happy. You can change the Z offset in Slicer, Can't remember if you have that option in Cura. Once you get the offset exactly where you like it you can change it in firmware. Until then it s easier to experiment doing it in the gcode. First layer height percentage plays into that as well (slicer). I wouldn't play with both variables at the same time, however.
Currently, you're set too fast (especially for a small/thin part) considering the build quality of your printer. Getting good prints at higher speeds takes a fair bit of mechanical tuning (tightening everything, adding LOTS of vibration dampening materials, bolting the printer down to something rigid). To get better quality out of what you have built right now, take print speed down to 30mm and you might need to reduce heat when you do as well. Also, I noticed you have Diameter set to 3mm, have you measured your filament? It is unusual for anything but the nicest of filaments to be perfectly spot on 3mm.Quote:
Originally Posted by tsteever
Chadd gave an excellent suggestion for some test objects you can use in your tests, and TopJimmyCooks' advice to use extruder offset is sound as well. To add an offset in Cura, click the Start/End-GCode tab, then click Start Code. Just above the end of the code where it says "M117 Printing...", add the line G1 Z--, substituting your offset for --. For example, if you want an offset of 0.05, then the end of your starting GCode should look like this:
;Put printing message on LCD screen
G1 Z0.05
M117 Printing...
Doesn't the G1 Z0.05 just move the printer to that location? For all 4 of those prints the bed was level and measured to be touching the glass prior to starting the print.
Also, printing too fast, do I just change all values to be 30mm or should the print speed be 30mm and all others be a percentage of that?
I am confused now about the extruder multiplier and the filament size. I thought that by putting in a multiplier it would make the changes for the material?
I am going to spend some time calibrating today it appears!
G1 Z0.05 raises your head 0.05mm. For a single extruder printer, all the extruder offset does is change your print height with GCode during the start of a print. "Touching the glass" is not a unit of measurement and does not constitute a level bed; furthermore, large thin beds like the one included with your printer are prone to warping anyway. As I said before, pick up some feeler guages and re-level your bed. Only clip the glass down on one side to keep the glass level. When using the guages, stay between .03-.2mm of space depending on the material and adhesion supplement.Quote:
Originally Posted by tsteever
Setting print speed will work wonders itself, but it couldn't hurt to scale back everything else the same percentage as well. Nothing needs to be lower than 20 though, leave anything that low alone.Quote:
Originally Posted by tsteever
The multiplier is just changing around a lot of the extruder settings with one factor; however, it is reliant on the filament diameter. Measure your filament in several places and in several ways. You will likely end up with a few different measurements, average those together and leave that value in the Diameter field. Then adjust the multiplier up or down depending on whether you need to extrude more or less. That is all covered in greater detail in whitemousegary's extruder calibration guide I linked to previously.Quote:
Originally Posted by tsteever
A few more things for you,
1. I have not used Cura but I know with slicer you can set a Z offset position, the offset is applied to the Gcode when it is generated and adjusts all the Z positions by the offset you put into slicer.
2. As mentioned the thin build plate will warp and won't be flat, also be sure to check the nozzle height in the center of the glass because I bet you will see that you have a larger gap in the center than on the edges.
3. Be sure you either download the new firmware or change the speed settings for your Z home feedrate otherwise you will be chasing your tail on your Z home/height position.
4. You can also adjust your first layer height in Slicer so you can print a thicker/thinner first layer. With simplify3d you can also adjust the extrusion width for your first layer so you can put down more material.
5. I would re-check your esteps to make sure they are still accurate.
6. I have seen several people who recommend just putting in the "standard" size for your filament say 3mm and then printing test objects and adjust your extrusion multiplier for each roll of filament you use then note it on the roll of filament.
Now that my Z axis is homing is the same every time all the issues I had with first layers are solved, before I would have to stop 2 out of 3 prints on the first layer because of the homing issue.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tsteever
In gcode all positioning is relative until you tell it to position absolutely in relation to home. I think.
Yep you have to make sure the machine is going to the same home position everytime you home it otherwise you are shooting a moving targetQuote:
Originally Posted by TopJimmyCooks
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chadd
I am working my way through the guide and get to the part in his blog that says to look for sagging. I am getting closer to the .4mm wall but now notice a bit of sagging in the walls. The corners are slightly higher. He never says what to do if that happens.
If I add more to the multiplier the walls will increase, defeating what I am trying to do. If I read into the further statements he does say to lower the height per layer to .3, Would that help get rid of sagging?
Do you have a picture of the part you printed?
Quote:
Originally Posted by tsteever
I can, but the only camera I have is an iPhone. It doesn't take macro shots well at all. It isn't a huge sag. Just thought it was odd that he mentions to look for it, but not how to fix it
Not sure if you can see the slight droop on these prints. It isn't too much but there non the less
I am still not happy with the finish on the top layer and the bottom looks like it needs to be a bit more squished in my opinion.
It looks very open compared to the purchased 3d parts I've bought. What settings can I tweak to get a better squish? The nozzle is already lowered to the glass less than the .35nfirst layer height. These are from the calibration thread.
What program are you using to slice with?
Have you checked the nozzle height in the middle of the bed after you home it?
Quote:
Originally Posted by tsteever
Well, I was using Cura but the tutorial is written for Slic3r. I figured I would stay with what was written as i learn and then migrate those settings to Cura.
Yes, I just level the bed manually at the 4 corners and then I zero out the nozzle in the middle.
How are you zeroing out the nozzle in the middle?
What material and temperature are you running?
Quote:
Originally Posted by tsteever
I am using ABS at 230 degrees.
To zero I adjust the endstop and zero the z axis. I then measure that is is touching the bed. If not, I then adjust the endstop and zero it again until it is touching the bed. I use pronterface to command the movements.
I totally gave up using proterface with mine. I use the SD card solely now and have had no headaches since.
Are you still having to mess with your home position before every print? Did you ever upgrade your firmware or change the Z home axis feedrate?
Quote:
Originally Posted by tsteever
Got that all sorted out. I replaced the endstop with a new micro switch and updated the firmware
Quote:
Originally Posted by tsteever
I am not sure, looks like those prints may be a bit too hot but I run ABS@ ~245-250 otherwise I don't get good layer adhesion so if those are at 230 I wouldn't think they would be hot. If you pm me your email I can send you Gcode of something I have sliced and you can try to print it. Could compare print to print that way.
Thanks! I will send you my email.
Sent you some files.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tsteever
Thanks Chadd for the files. Been printing these parts left and right getting things dialed in. I think I am getting closer. I sent you this pic but I figured I would also post here.
The One thing I am finding is the balance of flow rate is tough! Should I be adjust the filament diameter and the multiplier? I have been doing both but it seems like they would both do the same thing and I am fighting myself. To set the multiplier I was printing a single walled box with a perimeter width of .6. I measured the result vs the called for .6 and did my adjustments there. I also measured the filament in multiple spots to get the diameter.
I have calibrated the steps on the extruder so that 50mm setting actually extrudes 50mm of filament. It seems like if I lower the filament diameter (material going into the machine) and lower the multiplier I am telling the machine to extrude less material twice.
I have successfully gotten my bed to correctly zero out on the z axis and have even begun to play with the ABL a bit. I am not happy with how the bottom layers are turning out in Slic3r and Cura seems to over squish. Both have similar settings as far as initial layer height is concerned.
I also tried to print a cube and the top layer had holes in it. This was printed with Cura. It was a misprint as I intended to print solid and forgot to change the infill. I figured I would jest let it run to see how it did. Not good as you can see.
http://3dprintboard.com/attachment.p...tid=5049&stc=1
Slic3r Bottom Layer. Stuck good, just has voids between extrusions.
http://3dprintboard.com/attachment.p...tid=5050&stc=1
Cura bottom layer. Similar settings, good squish. Chad suspects too squished. Lower the width or raise the initial later height perhaps? Ignore the funny lines, just marks from my glue stick.
http://3dprintboard.com/attachment.p...tid=5051&stc=1
Cura Print. Had a .8mm top and botom llayer height which I think wasn't enough with that level of infill.
http://3dprintboard.com/attachment.p...tid=5052&stc=1
Sold box test. From the look of it, I need to raise my extrusion multiplier.
Another common suggestion I get is that my print settings are too hot. Not sure how people can tell this (Shiny parts). I am printing the above at 215 degrees. Not sure as that seems low to me. I did shoot it with a non contact thermometer and it read low. Significantly lower than 214. I know this is a surface temp and not an internal temp but if I were printing too high I would think the external temp would have been hotter than 180.
Has anyone else temped their hotends? It would be nice to have something to compare it to. My thought is that the black from Colin is just a shiny material. What are some other brands to try out?
I just leave the diameter set to nominal and adjust the flow rate multiplier for each roll of filament I use. So when I start a new roll I print the calibration cube at 100% infill and adjust the multiplier so that it has a flat top. Then I either make a profile for that roll or just write on the roll what the multiplier should be for that roll. For me it seems to work better that way.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tsteever
I may be going about it wrong but in the short time I have been printing the best indicator of temp is to print something that is thin wall with no infill 1-2 layers thick then break it and check for layer adhesion. It shouldn't just break clean when you pull it apart. I have to print ABS @245 to 250 to get good layer adhesion, I have tried all the way down to like 225. A good part to test this on would be the clips for the corner of the bed that I sent you, if they are too cold they will split apart when you try to clip them on the corners of your bed. Here is where I got the STL file for those
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:575489/#files
The gcode I sent you was for four of the small radius clips and I believe I had to run them at 250° for good adhesion. I also included the STL file for it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tsteever
Getting closer. I printed the box and the top is "fuller" but oddly not flat. It is within about .1 or so. Not sure what causes it. My inexperience says perhaps part of the print cooling weird. Maybe the auto bed level is goofy? I'm gonna put the non ABL firmware on and reprint to see if it changes things.
Here re is the print. What do you think? Top layer on the most recent Slic3r is much improved.
http://3dprintboard.com/attachment.p...tid=5062&stc=1
Top layer is much better
http://3dprintboard.com/attachment.p...tid=5063&stc=1
Not perfectly flat
http://3dprintboard.com/attachment.p...tid=5064&stc=1
Kinda bulges in parts and sags in others.
That looks quite a bit better than what you had before.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tsteever
I suggest that you check the following things to see if it improves your prints.
1) reduce the infill perimeter overlap a bit.
2) make a thin wall calibration assuming you did your e-steps already fine tune your extrusion adjusting the extrution multiplier.
3) maker sure your filament is rolling smoothly. ( the provided stock spool holder is awful).
4) try to level you bed as good as you can even though you have abl. You can use G29 n3 T V4 to see your bed topography if you are using the enhanced version.
Also I noticed that your corners are curling up its seams that you are probably a extruding a bit to hot. In my case I have noticed that I need to lower the temp a bit for black abs. (235c)
You are in the right direction at this point little changes will get you there. :)
I have 2 month with My printer and I'm still playing with the settings. .... I'm still not satisfied with the quality.
Thanks all, yes it is getting there. I did do the single wall calibration and e steps setting. I have lowered the temp even more. At this point I am doubting the thermister calibration as I am at 200 and still curling the edges and getting ooze.
Does it help to print the external perimeters first?
how hard is it to upgrade to the enhanced version? I really want to do that but haven't a clue what is involved.
I do not see a setting in slic3r to adjust the infill perimeter overlap. Where is this setting located?
yeah if you are printing ABS at 200C something related with the thermistor settings can be possibly off . make sure you have the Type 1 thermistor under the thermal settings on the configuration.h File .
#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 1
#define TEMP_SENSOR_1 0
#define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0
#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 1
also you can try replacing the thermistortables.h File on your firmware for the stock file .if that doesn't help .
Printing with external perimeters first can help getting better outline quality in some situations (straight walls) but i personally dont like it for parts that have overhangs , sometimes if the angle is to high you can end printing on air or can reduce layer adhesion.
also observe if this is happening in all corners or only in layer change or end loops. i have been trying to reduce this blobs playing with the retraction settings and Coast end (distance that the nozzle will stop extruding prior to the end of a loop). a good start can be from 1 mm to 1.80mm at 15mm/s - 20/mms for the retraction. and coast end at 2 mm
Regarding the Roxy's enhancements im running the following firmware .its not the latest but it has the enhancements already implemented . you just need to adjust the settings for your particular configuration . also you can find more info here: http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...ed-G29-command
here's the repo for Marlin firmware fork for MakerFarm i3v w/ auto bed level & Roxy's enhancements
https://github.com/beckdac/Marlin
there are a lot of words there I don't understand. What is a repo? What is a fork?Quote:
Originally Posted by pichuete;49281
here's the repo for Marlin firmware fork for MakerFarm i3v w/ auto bed level & Roxy's enhancements
[URL
Repo = Repository Fork i guess is because is configured to work with makefarms printers the main settings are already set for makerfarm printers:)
Also my bad English doesn't help :p
So I can just upload that and it should be configured for my Makerfarm printer? Also, can you direct me to the infill overlap setting? i cannot find it in slic3r.