Still printing parts out for these. I have a few ailerons left to print and then the vertical stabilizers. Here is the assembly line..http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/...20line%203.jpg
Printable View
Still printing parts out for these. I have a few ailerons left to print and then the vertical stabilizers. Here is the assembly line..http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/...20line%203.jpg
Still wrapping up green, but my air force is just about complete..http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/...plane%2012.jpg
what are you going to use for launching ?
I was considering building the slingshot out of pvc but lets just be honest here. I drive a Corvette. If i am able to fit myself and the rc aircraft in my car that in itself will be a small miracle. I sure wont be fitting a large pvc triangular structure in the car. So I am making some perches to affix the aircraft to my 1/10 scale redcat buggy and I am gonna drive the aircraft up to speed with the buggy, then hit the juice on the EDF and hopefully the aircraft will power into flight. Or that is the working idea, anyways. Brushless upgrade is on the way for the buggy.
If that works you HAVE to get video of that launch process !
Oh there will be high quality video uploaded to youtube where it can stay high quality and links will be provided. I am all over that. In the meantime, I have hung 5 spools of filament above my Black Widow for faster filament changes. Just grab the color you want and plug it into the modded titan aero..http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/...5%20spools.jpg
How's the airforce coming ?
You flown one yet ?
So it has been a while. I have detailed so many hardware modifications to my Black Widow printer but I have not kept up on the software end. If you guys can believe I have been running marlin 1.1.0 on all 3 of my machines. Also I have been running an older version of Arduino and I even had old firmware in my MKS TFT touchscreens. As much as I always liked the alternate firmware I had loaded in these screens it was an older firmware. So I have been setting up 3 copies of marlin 1.1.9 for each of my printers and I have updated the firmware in the TFT touchscreens with a win8 theme and I turned up the speeds a bit. Here is a short video of my Black Widow's new print speed:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uCg4gqGRbmY&t=48s
I know the above speed might not look extreme but the heated bed is 400mm x 250mm. It is a heavy Y axis. And I have started to have a skipped step issue on larger prints after I get a bit of plastic laid down on the bed. Only on Y. No layer shift on X. I am already running at 24v but I am running the silent TMC2208 drivers and I have the high precision 0.9 degree stepper motors. There are better options for both drivers and motors that will help with this issue but I really like printing with fine detail and doing it quietly. I have an idea on a new direction. I already converted the Z axis on this printer to use 2 motors. So I am familiar with the setup and changes in marlin that need to be made. So why not? Just replace the front idler pulley with a second stepper motor. So first we need to choose the stepper motor we want to use..
https://oi1050.photobucket.com/album...Y%20motors.jpg
To use a regular size stepper motor would require me to raise the whole frame or cut a hole in my table so this will get a pancake stepper motor for the front. Now that we have selected which motor we are going to use the next step is to create a motor mount to hang off the front of the frame. Go rapid prototyping..
https://oi1050.photobucket.com/album...or%20mount.jpg
The other thing we need for this is a stepper driver. But that is a bit of a tricky situation because the MKS GEN 1.4 mainboard has 5 stepper driver sockets and I have 2 being used for Z so all sockets are occupied. So this project will require the use of an expansion board to go along with the driver..
https://oi1050.photobucket.com/album...toWiz/96_4.jpg
https://oi1050.photobucket.com/album...toWiz/95_6.jpg
To make this all look like it belongs I chased down the right parts. I got a black genuine E3D titan aero stepper motor, a black drive pulley, and black m3 x 7mm screws..
https://oi1050.photobucket.com/album...toWiz/98_5.jpg
The way I hooked this up required no changes to marlin. There is a header next to each stepper driver socket that is a breakout for the Arduino pins that drive that socket. I connected this expansion board to the appropriate pins on the header next to the driver for the Y axis. And this whole mod is plug 'n play. Here is someone else's instructional video on making these connections:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vIChqkEAuto&t
And here is my completed 2 motor Y axis..
https://oi1050.photobucket.com/album...toWiz/99_4.jpg
So I have become fascinated with this lately and think I have found my new project..https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iAkzb1nXzwUI just have to have this sitting atop my toolbox at my job working on the Corvettes. So here is the engine block loaded in Repetier..https://i1050.photobucket.com/albums...ls%20block.pngWhile the above picture is of repetier host I have switched to Prusa Slicer 2.0. This is the new Slic3r and that is what I was using in repetier anyways and I don't really print from usb anymore. And I have nothing but good things to say about Prusa Slicer 2.0. Here is my Black Widow about half way done printing the engine block. ~22hrs in so far..https://i1050.photobucket.com/albums...s3%20block.jpgThe LS engine family are all aluminum engines. So I am printing the block and heads with silk silver PLA so it has a shine to it.
wow - that should be pretty cool when it's done !
So the engine block took over 40 hours to print. I am happy my printer with all of its mods printed this out without a problem..
https://i1050.photobucket.com/albums...toWiz/6_77.jpg
Next I need to print the cylinder heads.
With the exception of the exhaust headers The Black widow has printed all of this..https://i1050.photobucket.com/albums...oWiz/11_47.jpgThe piston on the scale was done for humor. Not needed for this application.
Got the engine stand printed and assembled..
https://i1050.photobucket.com/albums...ne%20stand.jpg
Well I got this far..
https://i1050.photobucket.com/albums...oWiz/31_30.jpg
And I just cant continue on with the engine yet. The stand needs to be one color. The raw aluminum is just wrong. I mean glow in the dark yellow isn't exactly right but solid colors are what most engine stands are. So I have to draw up and print out some covers for the aluminum so the whole frame will glow in the dark.
how much filament have you used so far ?
you mean mr dissertation writing spammer ? He gone :-)
Well good. I gotta get back to wasting filament. Right now the 2 tone color of this engine stand is buggin' the hell out of me. So i am drawing up and printing out covers to go over the aluminum so the whole engine stand is one solid color. Glow in the dark yellow. It is likely going to be some time before this engine gets finished at the rate i am progressing through this.
when it's done you could take it into the shop and offer people an upgrade: smaller more efficient engine :-)
runs on cornstarch lol
Oh Happy Day! I love to create and build and I really do get to express myself when I work on my cartesian robots. Of the 4 printers I own this Black Widow is the largest build volume and also the only aluminum extrusion frame I have making this my favorite. printing out and assembling someone else's design is cool and I will finish the LS3 motor. But it is a test of my skills in printer building. I do not work to create that. I follow instructions. The exciting part of 3d printing for me is building, reworking, and tweeking the machines. That's what grinds my gears. And it is time to rebuild my Black Widow.The parts going into my Widow include a few more 0.9 degree nema17 stepper motors to complete my vision of no idler pulleys and 2 motors for each axis. Also I am upgrading to the SKR 1.3 board and will configure and run marlin 2.0. I have a full compliment of linear rails and guides coming for all axes as once this is done I plan on ramping up the print speeds a bit. I have a genuine Prusa mmu 2.0 upgrade kit I will be installing on my BW. I am upgrading from a 3.2" touchscreen to a 3.5". I am also turning my be sideways so I will get the full 400x250 for x and y. I am mounting the control box down low on the frame for more ballast weight for them higher print speeds. And I plan on removing the top cross brace from the frame so my printer has just two towers that go up for the Z. Can you see what I'm seeing here? If not it's ok. Pictures are coming.
The MMU2 S kit I ordered directly from Prusa research. There are knockoffs that can be had for cheaper and if you print your own real cheap. I want this to work the first time out so I ordered the black mmu2s kit from here: https://www.prusa3d.com/original-pru...-material-2-0/ The new control board I got from here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/SKR-V1-3-3D...OSwnYdc8brgAnd I got the new 3.5" touchscreen right here: https://www.amazon.com/BIGTREETECH-D.../dp/B07W1PB11F The parts can not get here soon enough. And I have a bunch of these linear rods coming: https://www.ebay.com/itm/MGN12H-Line...JpFCs_vpdMhKWQ
Well I am not waiting for parts to get started. I have already tore down the printer and will work on printed parts to mount electronics to the frame until the parts come in..https://i1050.photobucket.com/albums...ore%20down.jpg
Ok so here is the basic new shape of what is about to be my huge 5 color printer..
https://i1050.photobucket.com/albums...0frame%201.jpg
The above picture is of the backside. I am turning the bed sideways so i can get the full 400x250 dimensions out of x and y. And Z will be over 300mm. With such a big print envelope i am concerned about the length of ptfe tube i will have to use with my mmu2s upgrade. So i have removed the top brace of the printer and plan to hang the mmu2s unit right off the gantry so it will go up and down with Z and i can run a shorter PTFE tube. Or that is the plan and the hope on this side of getting parts, anyways.
The MeanWell 600watt 24v power supply is mounted to the frame. The bottom mount took 10.5hrs to print and the top piece took just under 8 hours. Each part took 15-20minutes to draw up in autodesk 123d design. I still have an incredible way to go. I am just getting started.https://i1050.photobucket.com/albums...oWiz/103_5.jpgI am very happy with how the power supply mount has come out..https://i1050.photobucket.com/albums...oWiz/102_7.jpgThe specific power supply I have has some weight to it and the way I mounted it adds to the stability of the Z towers. This is a focal point of my conversion here as I am removing the top brace altogether. But so far it seems pretty solid indeed..https://i1050.photobucket.com/albums...oWiz/101_6.jpg
I am deleting the top crossmember from the printer's frame so it is crucial that I make the structure as rigid as possible. To that end i have stood the heavy Meanwell 600 se 24 power supply up and attached it to one of the Z towers at the top and bottom and now i am connecting that to the rear of the center extrusion for the Y axis..
https://i1050.photobucket.com/albums...oWiz/105_7.jpg
This gives this frame incredible rigidity. The weight of the power supply helps add stability here..
https://i1050.photobucket.com/albums...oWiz/106_6.jpg
And designing your own parts means never having to look for a crayon, marker, or Dremel. For we can just design our name into our part. AutoWiz is 5mm deep in this brace..
https://i1050.photobucket.com/albums...oWiz/107_6.jpg
Well the MMU2S upgrade kit came in the mail from Prusa Research today..
https://i1050.photobucket.com/albums...oWiz/108_6.jpg
So I have to get the MMU2S together before I go too much farther on the frame. I need a bigger workbench.
Oh ya. So do you guys remember a few years back when printers were all loud and people loaded gcode to make them kick out the Imperial March? If I wasn't running the silent tmc2208 drivers I Swear I would do that as soon as this was back together. This machine is gonna be radical..https://i1050.photobucket.com/albums...oWiz/109_6.jpg
this the one with hundreds of stepper motors ?
When I am done there will be 10 stepper motors driving this printer. And each motor will have it's own stepper driver so I will have 7 tmc2208 drivers and there are 3 drivers built into the MMU2S control board.
so why have you gone for the central bed support over the side supports ?
I mean it is a pretty substantial central support. But surely the side supports make a more stable bed ?
I am converting to all linear rails and guides for X, Y, and Z. I am also upgrading the front stepper motor on the Y axis to a full size stepper and have designed a new mount for it. Here is my current progress..https://i1050.photobucket.com/albums...oWiz/111_6.jpg
While this printer is down I am printing out all the parts I need with my failed 3 Color Mixing Printer, Printalicious. And these y end caps/ motor mounts are printed in petg and as the picture shows I have already revised this part from my original design..https://i1050.photobucket.com/albums...oWiz/112_5.jpgAnd before I even got the new part with more material installed I realized I need to make some sort of stop for the linear guides so they do not travel off the end of the rails. Back to the drawing board.
lol yeah that could be a problem :-)
3rd time's a charm. Got my motor mounts for Y designed and printed. I am happy with the results..https://i1050.photobucket.com/albums...oWiz/114_5.jpg
Still a ways to go. And I am waiting on a set of 550mm linear rails for Y to arrive in the mail..https://i1050.photobucket.com/albums...oWiz/113_3.jpg