Flashforge Creator Dual / Pro How to fix Dual Extruders dragging across prints.

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Originally Posted by jfkansas

Stock level is replenished. Getting caught up on pre orders over the weekend.

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should be have received these by now or are you still shipping?

Still in the process of filling back orders, what name was yours under. PM if you want.

Thanks.

PM sent.. thanks!

I placed an order and sent you a PM. Thanks!

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Originally Posted by JuernTech

I placed an order and sent you a PM. Thanks!

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Hey thanks, I will reply on how the side fan works later today. Yes there is a mounting hole.

I fixed this problem by ordering some cheap 0.002 inch thick stainless steel shims from McmasterCarr. I cut them into little pieces.

I loosened the bolt that holds the extruder head assembly on, slid the shims in the gap and retightened until the heads were even. Works like a charm and you don't have to deal with multiple extruder disassemblies.

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Originally Posted by Geoff

Ahh I see what you mean about the offset, ah well , it's not like you need to adjust it often and as you said, you are getting handing taking them off. It's only a couple of screws really isnt it for an extruder, im glad they made it as basically constructed as they did, makes my simple brain work much less harder.
:)

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Just for interest, this is the procedure I used to align the extruders.
First - align the bed CAREFULLY with the one extruder this is an extreemly important step and must produce a good result.
Second - using the information on previous posts release the higher of the two extruder tubes.
Third - use the baseplate to level between the extruder tips (I used a thin metal foil on the base to act as a reflector to help to see when the hights were the same).
Forth - with the base still in place screw the nozzle in place.
Fifth - screwing the nozzle up (tightening) can cause the nozzle to change hight so check again for both nozzles in contact with the base.
Sixth - reassemble the extruder and re-check.

now when you level the base next time be sure to check the hight on both extruders at each step. There is an advantage with dual extruders, it is easier to set the bed level as both extruders have to just clear your paper at each step; any tilt will jam one extruder or the other causing the paper to pivot round that nozzle.
Hope this helps others. Regards, Paul.

All,
The tool you are looking for to measure gaps is called a 'feeler gauge'. You can get them in English (.00x inches) or Metric (.0x mm) and they are cheap as can be. $10 USD or less, and found in almost any automotive store. Each blade is a different thickness and usually made of hardened steel. The English one I have is .001, .0015, .002, .003 inches and on up.

I measured the print head card that came with the FF Pro and it is 0.19 mm thick. A feeler gauge is used in the same manner.

Here is a metric one on Amazon so you understand what I am referring to http://smile.amazon.com/Metric-Thick...r+guage+metric.
PS>

• The print nozzles need a 9mm wrench to remove the brass nozzle, I prefer a socket and finger tighten only. A socket will also shave off most of the plastic gunk melted on the nozzle. A 'nut driver' would probably be better if you don't already have a socket set.
• And a 5/64 inch (2mm) drill bit will clean out the nylon tube, slow speed and please don't drill through your finger. You can buy individual drill bits at Lowes or Home Depot.
• An 'inspection mirror' allows you to find the screws holding the print head assembly to the carriage without bending over. A short one is fine, or use a ladies 'make up mirror'.

Here in the US an inexpensive place to get these items is Harbor Freight. Also you can find these items at Sears. Not sure if Lowes or Home Depot carries feeler gauges.
Hope this saves you some time!:cool:

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Originally Posted by jfkansas

If you are interested, I designed this to get rid of the little grub screws. It also increases the contact area on the heat barrier tube since it wraps tightly around it. With the stock design the grub screw will always push the tube to one side and leaves an air gap on the grub screw side.

It is designed to be easy to change the extruder heights and set the to exactly the same height.

http://store.wmdproducts.com/index.p...&product_id=62

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I just got a Creator Pro and it drags every print. I believe the head that is printing is dragging the print. I believe I will order your improvement here, but not thinking that will help with my problem. Any help would be appreciated.

MODERATOR NOTE: Post is VERY late to appear due to unexpected problems in obtaining moderator approval.

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Originally Posted by bkochis

All,
The tool you are looking for to measure gaps is called a 'feeler gauge'. You can get them in English (.00x inches) or Metric (.0x mm) and they are cheap as can be. $10 USD or less, and found in almost any automotive store. Each blade is a different thickness and usually made of hardened steel. The English one I have is .001, .0015, .002, .003 inches and on up.

I measured the print head card that came with the FF Pro and it is 0.19 mm thick. A feeler gauge is used in the same manner.

Here is a metric one on Amazon so you understand what I am referring to http://smile.amazon.com/Metric-Thick...r+guage+metric.
PS>

• The print nozzles need a 9mm wrench to remove the brass nozzle, I prefer a socket and finger tighten only. A socket will also shave off most of the plastic gunk melted on the nozzle. A 'nut driver' would probably be better if you don't already have a socket set.
• And a 5/64 inch (2mm) drill bit will clean out the nylon tube, slow speed and please don't drill through your finger. You can buy individual drill bits at Lowes or Home Depot.
• An 'inspection mirror' allows you to find the screws holding the print head assembly to the carriage without bending over. A short one is fine, or use a ladies 'make up mirror'.

Here in the US an inexpensive place to get these items is Harbor Freight. Also you can find these items at Sears. Not sure if Lowes or Home Depot carries feeler gauges.
Hope this saves you some time!:cool:

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Hi Folks,
For those in the UK you can get a set of feeler gauges 0.05 to 0.8mm from Toolstation at £2.62 their reference number is 70627.
Before you ask, I do not have any affiliation with the company, I am just a customer.

FFCP Noob here...is the FFCP 2015 version/model affected as well by the dragging problem? I printed a large bathtub model a week ago and it came out pretty ok me thinks:

Attachment 8693

Any info about how to troubleshoot the head height difference with the new FFCP?

For the last little adjustment, it is waaay easier to use a shim between the cooling bar and the carriage than to mess with the set screw and the heatbreak tube.

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Originally Posted by warkmal

For the last little adjustment, it is waaay easier to use a shim between the cooling bar and the carriage than to mess with the set screw and the heatbreak tube.

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Could you you show me a pic of what your talking about? Do you mean to insert very thin shims where the cooling bar is clamped to the carriage to essentially offset the height of whatever nozzle is lower?

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Originally Posted by Grindeddown

Could you you show me a pic of what your talking about? Do you mean to insert very thin shims where the cooling bar is clamped to the carriage to essentially offset the height of whatever nozzle is lower?

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Rich Webb posted a pretty diagram here: https://groups.google.com/d/msg/flas...4/c9IABy6eBQAJ

However, when you get there be sure to expand the message, Google hid the image below the fold. You do this my clicking on the little dashed message below his post.

By the way, I prefer to use thick silicon baking mat cut down to fit. I put one on both sides so I can adjust the height by compressing the silicon more or less by tightening the bolts.

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Originally Posted by warkmal

By the way, I prefer to use thick silicon baking mat cut down to fit. I put one on both sides so I can adjust the height by compressing the silicon more or less by tightening the bolts.

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The mats sound like a pretty good idea to adjust on the fly if needed for whatever reason. Does it introduce any additional slop into the machine though by having a pliable material in there?

i know it seems contradictory, but I wonder if very thin sheets of silicon matting in properly placed sections could act as dampeners and reduce things like corner ringing or if it would make it worse..... Hmmm..

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Originally Posted by Grindeddown

The mats sound like a pretty good idea to adjust on the fly if needed for whatever reason. Does it introduce any additional slop into the machine though by having a pliable material in there?

i know it seems contradictory, but I wonder if very thin sheets of silicon matting in properly placed sections could act as dampeners and reduce things like corner ringing or if it would make it worse..... Hmmm..

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If there's any slop it'll make the ringing worse, but I have it pretty tight and the other sight pretty tighter, so that any motion from it dampens faster than the slowest to dampen vibration. :-)

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Originally Posted by jfkansas

Thanks, just saw the notification pop up. I hope to have a video up on installation/use of it later this week but was busy printing misc stuff this weekend. I too had the same issue of getting the thermal barrier tubes out after the set screw leaves its mark. The set screws really gall things up. On my original flashforge parts I ended up drilling out the mounting hole a little, but this doesn't do anything for heat transfer at all since only a sliver of metal to metal contact is left after the set screw pushes the tube forward in the hole.

One of the most important things to do when putting this new system on is getting the thermal tubes nice and smooth again. This will help insure that the tubes slide up and down easily when the clamps are loosened. I have been using the system for a couple of months now with no issues. Periodically check the clamp bolt to make sure it is tight.

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1. Are you still selling the setup for adjustment on the dual extruders for the FF creator pro?
2. Do you recommend the smaller filament ptfe and why?
3. Do you still use the same cooling setup for PLA or can you modify pretty much the same way with any of the mod's people have posted???

Thanks in advance!

Hey there. Yep I have some in stock.

I do recommend the smaller PTFE tubing. It is more flexible and it allows you to load a new roll of filament without pausing since you can just push a new filament roll right after the empty one. With the bigger tubing this is more difficult since the filaments will pass each other in the tubing. The PTFE is translucent also so you can see where the filament is in the tubing.

I don't run any PLA, but the big frog looking PLA fan setup clips into the front of the carriage just like normal.

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Originally Posted by Mexicamelt

1. Are you still selling the setup for adjustment on the dual extruders for the FF creator pro?
2. Do you recommend the smaller filament ptfe and why?
3. Do you still use the same cooling setup for PLA or can you modify pretty much the same way with any of the mod's people have posted???

Thanks in advance!

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You mentioned you want them slightly different heights, is there a specific one you want to be higher than the other?
Currently I'm printing with my right extruder (Which according to the FF instructions is the one you're meant to use when levelling the bed) but the left nozzle is definitely is very VERY slightly lower and keeps catching my prints. Only very lightly, but it's enough to pull the odd bit off the bed if it's not stuck down well.
Is this that the nozzle is out of whack or my levels or my settings, or just that my adhesion isn't good enough?

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Originally Posted by jfkansas

Stock level is replenished. Getting caught up on pre orders over the weekend.

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Hi JF!
Is this item you are selling necessary to run the FlashForge in a consistent way? Just asking because our non-profit club is getting a Flash Forge so that we can start making hands for e-NABLE and we're on a limited budget.
Thanks!
Roxanne

Hello there,
after i read all post i now really wondering.
I got my FFCP a month ago and now have to calibrate my nozzels becaus on is off by 1mm. As the pictures from
SL666 in Post #6 tell me, i suggest having the same setup.

But if i remove all the stuff around the aluminum bar and losen and remove the setscrews (lil black ones) my throats wont come lose.
It's not that i didn't tried. First gentle twisting and pushing/pulling with my wrench and fingers later going on somewhat rougher but even holding on to the aluminum bar with pliers and turning the damn thing with the wrench i didn't came out nor in. The only thing it does is twisting and that requires an amount of force that can hardly be well.

So can anyone please tell me what i am missing?
Thanks in advance.

Attachment 18219Attachment 18220Just so you know the turbofan duct is trash. I found a way to fix this on Thingiverse. (I didn't make it) (Please excuse my terrible picture quality)

Hi, I am new here and I literally just got my printer yesterday, and I have a problem. When I use FlashPrint, I set my preferences to "Left Exturder". But it starts printing (Or trying to print) with the RIGHT exturder and vice versa. I spent like an hour trying to figure it out. I am not sure if it falls into this forum, but why not.

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Originally Posted by why am i here

Hi, I am new here and I literally just got my printer yesterday, and I have a problem. When I use FlashPrint, I set my preferences to "Left Exturder". But it starts printing (Or trying to print) with the RIGHT exturder and vice versa. I spent like an hour trying to figure it out. I am not sure if it falls into this forum, but why not.

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Select the displayed object, right mouse-click, and select 'Choose Left Extruder to Print'. If printing with the left extruder, the image will probably be displayed in green. If with the right extruder, the image will probably be displayed in yellow.

Also, you can go to File/Preferences and set the preferred extruder to Left so it will always default to the Left extruder.