OK succes at bed at 120 and ABS at 250
Thanks for the input!
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OK succes at bed at 120 and ABS at 250
Thanks for the input!
I just installed PEI on my bed and ran my first print, a simple 20 x 20 calibration cube and had no problem at 230/85 with ABS, specifically Hatchbox ABS in Black.
Sooo... Does the PEI sheet make noise while warming up and cooling down for anybody else? Mine makes a popping/cracking noise and it kinda freaks me out.
I haven't heard anything from mine. I print my ABS at 235 and the bed at 110, I can do smalller objects with the bed at 90, but I get lifting on the corners if I don't have the bed up. I have also taken to using a 60watt light to light up the bed and to also give heat, as my printer is near a window. I have blue makerfarm 1.75, and Orange hatchbox ABS. On a side note, I have had the makerfarm filament jam, and the printer just goes on printing air, I am thinking I run into random thicker spots or bumps in the filament.
no noise here. Mine isn't taped to anything. I am just using about 8 clips to clip it to the glass that is above the heat plate.
Has anyone tried printing polycarbonate on PEI or buildtak? I have a roll, but could never get it to stick to anything.
Over at the SeemeCNC site, where I first found out about PEI, I did a searth through the thread and found that the original thread poster mhackney in a post about his PEI install says "It's a GREAT choice for PLA, ABS and polycarbonate. I've run enough prints of all three of these to be comfortable with it."
I was able to get one print out of my buildtak sheet before the second print started just a hair too low and ruined it. Would the PEI sheet be any more forgiving, or is it also sensitive to first layer height?
Plastic extruded too close and "smooshed" into the PEI sheet doesn't bother it?
I haven't had any issues when first layer goes to low. The only thing is that you may have a hard time removing it if you have your temp on the high side (95 - 100c). I suggest not using anything sharp.
I was running ABS at 250 on a 110 bed when it printed too low. There's no removing the plastic from the buildtak sheet without cutting holes in it.
finally ordered mine, gonna need it possibly in the future
I've got one on the way, too. Looking forward to it. I'm printing whole plates of parts for sale, and I'm always losing one or two around the edges. Seems like once I get enough layers of hair spray that things really start to stick well, it's about time to clean up and start over.
You might want to get some high grit sandpaper, as you could still have some issues. Every few print jobs I sand my sheet lightly with 1500 grit sandpaper in a cross hatch pattern, per what I read somewhere else. I am still looking for the best combo of temps. I probably am not really calibrated the best I could be either. I also just realized that I have had mine like 6 months, even though I haven't been really printing that total time, but it probably would be good to tighten everything up.
Just placed an order for a 0.06 inch thick 12x12 PEI sheet from Amazon. We'll see how it goes. Nervous as it's over 2x the cost of Buildtak, which lasted me one print.
I'm a complete noob at this, printing all of about 3 weeks now. I use the same PEI as you ordered and have perfect results with ABS and PLA. I have dragged the head all over the PEI and while it leaves permanent marks, they do not affect the print at all. They are just surface marks. You will be happy!
got my PEI sheet intoday, have all the stuff peeled off it and cleaned with alcohol, now to wait on a print to finish so i can pull the glass clean it and install both together :-)
C42 when you get your bed in raise your Z offest by at least .1 I jept my previous offset and while close it made things smoosh into the PEI and when i stopped the print to get it off(i had to wait on the bed to cool and had to scrape it off with my fingernail) for the few moments that the nozzle was stopped to extrude and wipe and where i stopped and immediately raised the hotend there are small littel spots on the sheet. It's not the end of the world you can barely even feel them, but just giving you a heads up ahead of time.
Well...I"m not super impressed with the PEI yet. I have a 1/16 sheet, and it doesn't really stay flat on the bed. It has a little curl to it, so I just orient it with the bow downward and clip it down at the corners. This is okay, but when it heats up, it rises a bit in the middle, causing the nozzle to drag a bit on the first layer.
As for adhesion, it seems similar to glass with hair spray so far. I haven't tried sanding it yet.
Where did everyone get their 3M adhesive sheet? Judging by C42's post, perhaps it may be needed. Still waiting for my PEI sheet to arrive, it's been marked as "delayed".
Ive been using the PEI sheet from McMaster for a few weeks and its almost to good as its very difficult to remove the parts im going to try some baby powder to see if it releases any better. I have it glued to a sheet of glass with Weldwood contact cement.
Printing ABS bed temp 60.
Beerdart if you use abl raise your offset by .1-.2 so it isnt pressed so hard onto the pei it helps to have it be not quite so smushed to come off easier
My ABL offset is set to .004" .1mm off the sheet.
My PEI was as good as glass with hairspray until I knocked the temp up to 120 then everything stuck perfectly. To get it very flat, I am using about 9 clips. My only complaint now is that at home, I have a little melted spot.
i think i am up .2 mm from my location pre pei sheet... its odd how differently our sheets react... mine is hard to get off untill it cool then it pops off with slight effort... larger pieces i'm sure are harder
i modified my offset until i got the adhesion and first layer i was looking for... i am unsure of the actual distance
Perhaps different suppliers.
Mine is from McMaster. I've only tried it up to 100C. 120C seems pretty hot. And it's well beyond the 85C stated adhesion limit for WeldWood. You haven't had any trouble with separation?
I do allow the nozzle to touch the sheet, and it remains to be seen whether that causes a problem. I purge the nozzle off the front edge of the bed [0,215] and then sweep all the way to the back [0,0] in contact with the surface to wipe off anything that stuck to the nozzle then lift to .2mm and start printing the first layer.
I like this method because I don't have to peel off the loops around the part afterward. I can just shoot some more hair spray on the bed and keep going.
I'm hoping the PEI can eliminate the hairspray, too.
i use your same start process C42, i have a small spot on my pei where it purges but thats all
I run at 70c bed temp and its more then enough for adhesion. Im going to try 50c to see if it helps with part removal. I have not had any separation with the Weldwood up to 90c that is the hottest ive tried.
That's exactly it. I paid a little extra to have it shipped Next Day from Amazon Prime. Then an email about it being delayed. It arrived today anyway, so it wasn't much of a delay.
I didn't expect it to be transparent like amber plexi, though. Time to cut it up to fit my 8x8 boro.
edit: I'm having trouble cutting it. What's the trick? I've tried my Xacto and a glass cutter. I don't want to use my dremel if I can avoid it. That seems to be too rough.
I just scored it and break like a sheet of glass.
Sure. I'm doing this on a tablet, so hopefully I won't mangle it too badly.
Note that the move to the front is done in two moves. This is to ensure it doesn't collide with the clips on the front of the bed. If you move direct, the clips don't slow it down at all. They fly across the room.
For this to work, make sure you have a clear path from [0,210,0] to [0,0,0]. If you don't, your life is going to get complicated very quickly.
STARTEND
M80 ; POWER ON
M42 P5 S255 ; light on
M190 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; wait for bed to heat up
M104 S[first_layer_temperature_0] T0 ; start heating T0
G1 Z5 F50 ; lift nozzle
G28 ; home X and Y axes
G29 ; auto bed level
G1 X0 F8000 ; move to side
G1 X2 Y210 F8000 ; move off front
G1 Z0 ; Level for wipe
M109 S[first_layer_temperature_0] T0 ; wait for heat
G90 ; absolute
T0 ; extruder 0
G92 E0
G1 E12 F50 ; extrude
G1 Y0 F8000 ; wipe
M104 S0 ; turn off temperature
G28 X0 ; home X axis
G28 Y0 ; home Y axis
M84 ; disable motors
M190 S0 ; wait for bed temperature to be reached
M42 P5 S0 ; light off
M81 ; power off