I'm very excited to see your print cooler thread posts printbus! :D
*buys a one way ticket on the hype train*
*raises the roof*
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I'm very excited to see your print cooler thread posts printbus! :D
*buys a one way ticket on the hype train*
*raises the roof*
Totally agree! I am hours away from installing one controlled by D9 and anchored via the hexagon cooling fan screws, but maybe I'll wait for your design!?!
There will be those who don't like the print cooler I have. I'll try to get it added to the build thread sooner rather than later.
MiniMad - it'd be interesting to see a rear-mounted cooler. That might have pretty wide acceptance since it wouldn't be in the way of anything. I started with that concept. It just started getting real bulky by the time the fan or blower was located far enough back to clear the v-rail and carriage wheel, and then a shroud had to sneak below the carriage and get around the wheel at the bottom of the carriage. I sketched a concept up on paper, but concluded it was way beyond my current design capability.
I even toyed with the idea of a blower mounted on the outer sidewall of the frame, above where the MeanWell type power supply usually goes. Some sort of flexible hose could then curve down to the bottom of the carriage where I envisioned a shroud was attached. The local ACE Hardware had some 3/4-inch ID corrugated discharge hose that might adapt well to the square or rectangular hole in a blower. If it hadn't been overpriced at $4 USD a foot, I'd have tried that.
I was also intrigued by http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:271875. It uses the split cable loom as an air tube from a blower mounted on the unused extruder motor bolt hole for a Robo 3D printer. The tubing and copper wire length might have to be different for an i3v, but it could work for many depending on how the hot end wiring is routed.
Clough's print cooler was strapped onto the left side of the X-carriage on my printer for a while as well. I put it there after I had an extruder base melt-down with the print cooler mounted on top of the low-flow fan I had installed for the stock hex cooling approach.
The more ideas out there the better.
Tracking still isnt showing when my printer is due :(
Can someone please tell me what size glass I need to get so I can go ahead and have that cut?
Looks like most are getting a peice thats full width, and then having it a bit shorter depth to clear the bolts?
That seems easier than attempting to break the corners off.
Well I ended up going with a side mount cooling fan. I just couldn't figure out a good solution from the rear or front. My goal was to use an existing 40mm fan and whatever hardware I have sitting around. There are some issues to the mount I have, namely the angle is a bit too broad and I want to add a keyway to keep the mount in place, but using the existing mounting holes on the x carriage, it seems it will do a good enough job without any mods to the printer itself
Attachment 2627
Nice and simple solution.
Am I missing something, or would this be a good solution?
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:351280
Opps, nevermind, says it doesnt work with the stock setup.
Only works with this setup, which also seems nice.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:335613
I'm using the stock hot end (reprinted after it melted once... See http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...ll=1#post25399 and printbus's follow up with an easy fix). I wonder if the lower two screws on the cooling fan could be used to mount a smaller version of https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:351280 for a 25 mm fan.
Attachment 2647Well life interrupted my progress this week and I haven't had time to revisit the model I drew up the other night. Will hopefully get around to it tonight or tomorrow. So much to print, so little time!
Edit, here's a quick revamp of the model I posted before. The tab on the right edge is designed to 'hook' around the outside front edge of the x carriage, which should provide the support needed to keep the mount from moving. The screw hole is simply aligned with the single screw on the side of the carriage. Will print it this weekend and see if it fits!
Attachment 2647
Here is my print cooler design: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:462768
This parametric model styled after clough42's allows you to try different fan sizes and alternate mount points by controlling the angle and diameter of the nozzle away from the fan. I have one setup that seems to work with a 25mm and another with 40mm.
To help in getting the print cooler positioned absolutely perfectly so it will not interfere but still offers maximum airflow over just the top of the hot end, I ended up coming up with these items:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:464868
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:463758
They are pretty generic and can be used to mount a lot of the different print coolers (see the list in Thing Info section).
Here's the final print cooler mount. I have to update the STL as it appears there's a small issue with the centre opening when printing. I will probably design a duct for it that will mount to the other side of the fan, but for now, it appears to work well.
Attachment 2697
That's great! Without any ducting, when it kicks on, do you see a quick dip in the hot end temperature?
It looks like you have plenty of space for an auto bed leveling system.
There's an ever slight reduction, maybe half a degree, i lucked out, in that at its current angle, the bulk of the air that the fan is moving just clears the tip of the hot end. I will have to run some tests, but as it is, this should work pretty well....I wonder if there will be a need for a duct at all...I'm not sure how/where i would mount the bed levelling servo...I've honestly gotten used to manually levelling my beds over the years hah!
IMO, it depends what you're looking for in a print cooler. The open faced fan will definitely help on larger prints. What I found is that for bridging, low angle walls, or high density very small prints (maybe like the small extruder gear), I needed a pretty concentrated airflow aimed right below the nozzle. Part of this was to ensure I had adequate cooling on the part of the print behind the hot end. I had multiple prints where the upwind part of the print was great, but the downwind part was still having cooling issues.
Did my first prints last night!!!
Dont want to highjack this thread with my own build and questions, so I made a post here...
http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...7288#post27288
Would appreciate any input.
This thread has been VERY helpful !!!!
Congratulations! I'm sure you read through Printbus's build for the 8" which is super helpful too!
Thanks,
Yep read his thread also! Great info around here!
I note that the adjustable Z-end stop has moved from Thingiverse to Youmagine. Here is the new link: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ma...top-bracket--2
Thanks dacb, I just didn't like the TOS that Thingiverse had, and as I've got several updates coming, I wanted to move to a platform that was more open source.
I've also created a new print cooler for it, which I'm fairly happy with. Using a standard 40mm fan, it mounts in the same location as my old one, however it now features a duct and revised mount that should increase the airflow more than my previous design
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ma...e-print-cooler
Nice mount and duct. I am using your first version now,
Simple and small, but I dont like that it doesnt focus the air at all.
Do you think your design would work with the Clough42 HexHead extruder shroud and AutoLevel setup?
[EDIT] The servo is obviously in the way to mount it on the left side, but it looks like you could mirror the design and mount it on the right side?
Id like to find a way to do Clough42s setup and still have a fan on the side,
I dont like the idea of mounting a fan in the front, cant see the extruder as well.
"It is very easy to build" like it
http://amburadul101.tk/28/o.png
Here's a possibility for a print cooler - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:271875. It's meant for another printer, but it should adapt to the 13/13v, depending on routing of wires going to the hot end. The blower mounts to the spare mounting hole on the extruder motor, with a flexible duct that is routed to the print area.
The left-side blower I'm using leaves a lot of room for auto-leveling stuff since the blower is mounted forward to line up with the hot end. It'd take some creativity to make a standard servo with a swing arm work, but some day I may look at using some sort of linear one that moves a microswitch vertically, or using a linear conversion on a rotary servo.
Printbus is that first one the kind of servo that tilts the blades on a collective pitch RC helicopter? Not to get too off track but since seeing your sig, I have been interested in RC helicopters again. I worked on Cobra and Apache Attack helicopters in the Army.
Sort of. Smaller RC helicopters often use linear servos to move the swashplate, which ultimately controls the pitch of the main blades. The linear servos are used since they're small and light. Larger RC helicopters will use rotary servos since they're stronger and likely faster. A collective pitch heli will have four servos - three controlling the swashplate and an additional one controlling blade pitch on the tail.
Funny enough I work on the EO/IR on those platforms :)
Jtice, I haven't provisioned for the auto bed levelling system just yet. I toyed with the thought of mounting the servo on the opposite side of the platform. The issue is with the carriage there's limited space due to the vertical design, that and the hexagon hot end's required fan takes up a good spot. I think it wouldn't be too hard to fashion a new mount and duct that is a little further forward and narrower, so it would clear the servo and switch. I will have to try when I get to doing an auto bed solution.
Had a strange occurrence last night and tonight. When i went to print last night, my first print i noticed that the z height was off, the extruder was too high. No big deal, re-aligned and no issues at all that night (aside from me wanting cleaner prints) Come back tonight and fire it up, first print, the extruder is now too close, filament won't extrude, its that close. So i re-adjust to what I am thinking is roughly where it was at before. I didn't do much to the printer in-between, other than changing the print fan, so I don't know if that would have knocked something out, but it seemed weird...
Mine does that alot also, it seems the bed , or the nozzle, are at different heights each day.
I have noticed that it makes a difference if its your first print of the day, I think the wood part of the print bed is expanding when its warm.
I preheat mine for 8 o 10 minutes now before I start my first print.
It helps, but I still have to adjust at times.
Some sources of noise I have identified from my build:
- Filament spool holder. I'm using the stock "spool holder." It isn't in a bad position. I adds weight to keep the frame anchored and it feeds naturally into the extruder. However, the spool doesn't really rotate around the cross piece as much as lurch. There is probably a clever solution on the 3D object sites, but I am just filing the cross member towards round at each filament spool swap. Lo-tech.
- LCD mount. buzz.... See clough42's spacer. Through random chance I had some thick foam "washers" with an adhesive bottom that worked.
- Spun belt drive gears. Several times now, I have noticed that the timing pulleys like to drop set screws. On both the X & Y axes, the set screws for the servo motor gear come loose and will potentially dislodge. This isn't brain surgery, but it is annoying. Something odd is happening here with fit in my kit. Maybe next time I tighten, I'll loctite blue. Symptoms: First, smearing: smearing on an axis. When the angular variation at each direction change are large enough, the print will seem to smear with inadequate filament feed rate. IT looks bad! Second: noise. The axis will pull strongly to either direction, but as the gear slips on reversal, it will hesitate (as the motor reverses, but the gear/pulley is not engaged) and then catch with a click or tick. If it goes far enough, it will be a thud after each direction change on an axis that is large enough. You could miss this sound for lots of reasons: kids, too much 1812 Overture when you were a kid, or life.
dacb, this might save you some elbow grease. I've been using this and it's running better for sure.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:326641
Works great with my ABS spools! It is a tad too large for my PLA. On my todo list is to remix it slightly thinner. I think the way you designed it is perfect for thinning. Thanks!
Great! While I'd love to take credit for its design, it wasn't me but user neonpolaris :P