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I concur with Geoff, "If it ain't broke,...don't fix it!"
Haven't bothered doing a firmware flash, but I guess if one wants to revert, there's the original here;
http://www.ff3dp.com/#!download/c58h
ReplicatorG may not be the fastest or latest "bling(?)" on the block, but in my (2 month experience?) the stock FW seems pretty reliable..not doing production..hobby only.
Cheers!
TD
it's the total lack of any kind of layer control that's causing me grief.
Every other brand/make/etc 3d printer software out there gives you the ability to lay your first layer down, slower, thicker and hotter and then revert to normal printing for the rest.
But not makerbot software. And I haven't been able to even get close to using any other software.
And the annoying thing is if you use raft - it's put down, slower and thicker. So the software can do it - just not without raft.
aarrgghhhh !
:-)
Also loading and unloading filament does seem to be a bit of a lottery. I usually have to click it a couple of times before it works properly. And that's definitely a firmware issue.
But mainly it's the complete lack of layer control.
I didn't really give replicatorg a fair go. after it took 40 minutes to slice a 2cm long elephant, I decided to leave it a lone.
It did seem to have more settings than makerware desktop.
The only thing I like about Replicator G is the Gcode editing on the fly, that is really handy. What you are trying to do can all be done in Gcode, it's just a matter of adding it before you print. Let me go through and figure it out,Quote:
Originally Posted by curious aardvark
I know what you are after, you basically just want the first and/or second layers to print slow like the raft yeah?
The way it works, the raft usually prints at %50 of your set feed rate, but in raftless yeah, it ignores it and makes ugly stuff. I had your pain yesterday, needed to print raftless and had about 10 failures.. everything in the book happened... bed level was off,
nozzle dragged on the print... man it felt like I'd never set the machine up and it just came out of the box.
My problem here is the temperature now. In winter it gets down to 0 or below when the wood fire goes out in the middle of the night, and everything freezes, then when we all get up the place is back to 25c, so the machine is really contracting and expanding alot, so thats most likely my cause. It's my first winter living in the bush, never realised how insulated the city is!
haven't started getting into gcode yet.
But yep I'm sure I can sort out my issues.
Can I modify the gcode and then export to x3g files ?
It's all a learning curve.
Yeah winter will be fun - my workshops will be about 10-15c cooler than it is at the moment.
You have complete control over that in makerware. You can even change raft parameters, layers, speeds and everything. Temperature settings are kinda flimsy, from my experience printer tends to stop and heat up/cool down damaging the printout.Quote:
Originally Posted by curious aardvark
You want to 'create profile' and 'edit profile' in Makerware, under the Advanced Settings. All the delicious gooey center is in the .json file that you edit with notepad, it pops up when you press the edit profile button.
well actually it just crashed, never opened in notepad.
I've installed proftweak and it launches that now - but it's not exactly in english, if you know what I mean. And makerware has an annoying habit of resetting everything you've changed when you click the create customised profile button, just because it can.
User friendly, it just isn't.
simplify3d looks the business - but not many reviews and not enough to convince me that it's not just people associated with the company. And it's bloody expensive.
They probably aren't - but just because you're paranoid, doesn't mean they're not out to get you :-)
dude those are beautiful prints.. done with supports? or rafters? honestly on the Dreamer I cannot tell the difference between rafters or supports.. I only have a support option and I try like hell to not press that button.. maybe I'll buy some water soluble filament and see if that helps on some of the 45 degree overhang issues i get
45 degree's is easy! :) You just build on the curved lip on the outside parameter!!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by rovino
rafts are flat plastic sheets that a model is printed on. Very useful if you can't get filament to stick to the bed all by itself.
Supports are thin columns of plastic that allow the printer to bridge awkward angles or spaces and are removed once the print is finished.
And yeah I've printed funnels with a steeper than 45 degree angle - no problem at all :-)
I upgraded my FF Creator X to Sailfish 7.6 (r1228) and have never looked back. Using Slic3r (and other slicers that use the Sailfish G-Code flavour) is way better than ReplicatorG / Makerware in my opinion (more control, etc).
I posted the brief process I use to print stuff here: http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...lic3r-settings
Yep; you can run GPX from the command line taking any g-code file as an input.Quote:
Originally Posted by curious aardvark