unfortunately im not running a makerfarm printer. i have a makergear m2 but here is a link to the whole extruder setup i made. i have no idea if this can be adapted to your printer.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:344950
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unfortunately im not running a makerfarm printer. i have a makergear m2 but here is a link to the whole extruder setup i made. i have no idea if this can be adapted to your printer.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:344950
Probably not by me :)
PTFE lining in any hot-end is asking for trouble.
I use the regular Greg's Hinged Extruder that came with my Makerfarm kit with my E3Dv6, though I did buy E3D's groovemount plate to use instead of Makerfarm's wood one.
I've been wanting to switch to the Hexagon hotend to use clough42's dual extruder, but if it's narrower inside than the E3D, that gives me pause.
I've had no trouble with the lining in my E3D. It stops above the heatbreak, so it shouldn't get hot enough to be a problem.
Shouldn't is the key word.
yes the ptfe in the e3d is out of the hot zone. even if i crank my temp up to 265 and unplug the cooling fan leaving it just sit there for 1/2hr the heat doesnt creep up the hot end. the cooling fins are only warm. you can hold it in your hand. its not like the old hotends with peek and ptfe liner
My point is there is no reason to use a liner. My hot end is home made out of drilled threaded rod and a drilled brass acorn nut. Its not rocket science there is a hot end and a cold end. I don't get all the hype of all the "Cool" looking hot ends.. Maybe im just a cheep old fart.. LOL
believe me i thought the same thing as you but there is a massive difference in performance. its in keeping the hot zone as short as possible to have better control of the filament. going from a oldschool hot end with a drilled brass tube to the e3d i was able to cut my retraction and ooze controls easily in half. prints are cleaner, less oozing and more responsive all the way around.
Good to know Jim Ill have to bite the bullet and try the newer "cool" hotend. I just dont see the logic.
I'm considering drilling out a couple of Hex nozzles to make the two step constriction down to the nozzle aperture like the E3d has. Anybody done this? Any data out there on whether this feature really helps anything or not? hard to tell. it's easy to do with a drill press and a vise.