now trying to figure out why firmware wont go.
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now trying to figure out why firmware wont go.
when i try to upload the configuration.h it gives me this error.
as it does for Pins.h etc.
This report would have more information with
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Arduino: 1.0.6 (Mac OS X), Board: "Arduino Mega 2560 or Mega ADK"
In file included from dogm_lcd_implementation.h:38,
from ultralcd.cpp:36:
dogm_font_data_marlin.h:13: error: 'u8g_fntpgm_uint8_t' does not name a type
dogm_font_data_marlin.h:172: error: 'u8g_fntpgm_uint8_t' does not name a type
In file included from dogm_lcd_implementation.h:40,
from ultralcd.cpp:36:
ultralcd_st7920_u8glib_rrd.h:43: error: 'u8g_t' was not declared in this scope
ultralcd_st7920_u8glib_rrd.h:43: error: 'u8g' was not declared in this scope
ultralcd_st7920_u8glib_rrd.h:43: error: 'u8g_dev_t' was not declared in this scope
ultralcd_st7920_u8glib_rrd.h:43: error: 'dev' was not declared in this scope
ultralcd_st7920_u8glib_rrd.h:43: error: expected primary-expression before 'msg'
ultralcd_st7920_u8glib_rrd.h:43: error: expected primary-expression before 'void'
ultralcd_st7920_u8glib_rrd.h:43: error: initializer expression list treated as compound expression
ultralcd_st7920_u8glib_rrd.h:44: error: expected ',' or ';' before '{' token
Brown is ground, red is +5v and orange is fruit. Refer to this chart
http://3dprintboard.com/attachment.p...tid=5541&stc=1
You would pull the pins out of the 3 pin dupont connector and re-pin it: Orange, Brown, Red.
Slide the connector onto pins 2, 4, and 6 so that red is on the bottom (pin 2).
swirvbox
i know its surprising, but i figured that out before this chart :) haha... so when i plug it in, i hear the servo engage. so thats good.
Now im fighting the firmware not uploading... i think im close :)
EDIT : nm it was the glib folder i was missing... checking things now
so i think i have the software detecting and moving the servo around... Only problem i see now is that my servo switch is within 1mm of the tip of the hot end. So they are engaging the glass at the exact same point and the servo switch is never triggering.
i havent seen that in any of the videos :)
going to try a longer arm
ok, longer arm seemed to have worked, to get it further from the nozzle. now its about 7mm past the nozzle.
So i filed down a piece that was causing me issues. everything appears to be working now. with the exception of my Z probe switch (the server switch) is not triggering when the pluger hits the bed.
Not sure if my endstop switch is bad, it wouldnt surprise me one bit. The screw i used to mount it was too big.
I did the command zeroing things out, so im showing when its engaged with the bed, it is 6.60mm below the hot end..
so its right. its just not working from the plunger perspective.
If i run M119 while the endstop plunger is down, it still says OPEN, but if i engage the z end stop (the one on the frame of the printer) it shows triggered. So is there some setting im missing that isnt telling it that that end stop is even around?
Do i need to do anything with the rumba board besides plugging in the end stop the 2nd z end stop connection? is that not even the right spot for it?
EDIT : ok, i figured out that it replaces the old Z stop trigger... However, is it all coded smart enough to lower the Servo arm when it wants to Z level at home position too?
So its working.... ITS ALIVEEEEEEE
the G29 hit 9 points on the bed, everything was perfect..... so my last question... do you just add the G29 code to the gcode below the G28 auto home. after the G29 runs it automatically starts printing i presume right?
does the G29 automatically add values in somewhere that tells the printer exactly where the head should be going? thats just all in there automagically?
I may (once i get back from vegas) put together a tutorial on all the steps needed here. It wasnt as bad as i thought, but its not all in one place either. you guys were a GREAT help. thanks so much
Quote:
Originally Posted by dunginhawk
just put it in immediately after G28 and the printer will handle the rest
or so it seems :) thats what i went ahead and did... how amazing... I am only printing a tiny calibration cube right now, but the height is ok... im having to set a -.3mm offset in S3d for PLA, and ill set another one for ABS when i figure it out, but thats not to tough to handle.
If it works that well across the whole bed. this is a game changer for first layers
I'll be honest... I could do without the ABL and just have an adjustible offset when homing for Z and i would be gloriously happy... because if the glass is level then abl isnt needed and a number to adjust closeness to the bed makes life so much easier than turning a screw