Do the Hexagon AO hot ends come with the rubber isolator caps for the heat blocks?
Printable View
No, Sadly I did not receive the Silicon caps :( it isnt even mentioned in the contents for the kit... Which blows.
Bummer that they bagged the silicone jackets.
Apologies, I realize this isn't really the right thread...
Would you be able to answer a kinda generic question about your print cooling shroud here? There is a large newbie element to the question...
Thx.
Thx!
ATM, I'm running a stock 12" I3V w/ RUMBA. Hexagon HE, 0.4mm for 3mm filament (w/ silicon bootie) and standard MF fan shroud. The key thing here is that the fan effectively ends up blowing down on the table, and thus provides some continuous, albeit "meh", part cooling.
Per comments someone made in my "diary" thread, I'm printing some retraction test objects.
The last of the tests is printing now, and I'll post in my thread the results, but the results I'm seeing thus far suggest to me that adjusting retraction times is effective, but has practical limits, and that some cooling tweaks might have a role to play.
I think I would like to try your extended part cooling fan shroud, initially leaving the MF HE cooling in place and then possibly switching to your Hex cooler as well.
Questions:
- Would the part cooling fan be wired to the controller rather than straight to power? If so...
- Any general rule of thumb for the situations in which you'd use it or not?
Again, thx!
The goal with the part cooling fan is to cool the deposited layers of plastic so they solidify without drooping before the next layer goes down on top. A part cooling fan can help immensely with bridging and overhangs, and it helps get crisp edges when printing layers with short build times. I've had parts with narrow towers that print poorly because the hot end just sits over the top of the tower, building straight up and the radiant heat from the hot end never lets it set up. A fan helps with this.
Usually though, you want to avoid air blowing on the print for the first few layers to prevent warping. To much air too soon can cause the parts to peel off the bed, especially with ABS.
I always run the print cooling fan on a PWM channel under software control. I'm not familiar with RUMBA, so I can't tell you where to connect it. Slic3r has configuration settings for cooling policy to control when the fan runs. I usually have it set to skip the first 5 layers and then power on progressively for layer times less than 45 seconds or so, slowing down to prevent layer times less than 10 seconds. You want it on for bridging.
For some parts with lots of detail, you will want the fan on continuously. For others that are prone to warping, you will want it off. It's an art and you will have to learn from experience.
I hope this helps..
Using Clough's firmware, adjusted for my 10" bed, calibrated nicely. However, my prints aren't printing in the center of the bed...they seem to be off by about 20mm on the Y axis, and 30mm on the X axis. Any ideas?
I have mine doing a G28, which triggers the X and Y endstops when it homes. Then it does ABL (G29) and doesn't hit the X or Y endstops at all.
I wonder if it has anything to do with Safe Homing? When I do the G28, it homes X and Y, then goes out to what the firmware says is "X_MAX_LENGTH/2".
X_MAX_LENGTH = X_MAX_POS - X_MIN_POS...and I have X_MAX_POS = 245 (roughly 9.65" since my glass sheet is slightly smaller than my 10" bed) and X_MIN_POS = 0.
I should fiddle with those numbers and see if it helps...maybe tomorrow.
Long time no post but the Itty Bitty is still running great. We just added auto retract nozzles to prevent dragging of the inactive head and the results are very positive.
I ordered up some hardware from Clough this week to make both an itty bitty flex double and a single itty bitty.
Yes ............
That's pretty cool. Have you posted details somewhere? It's hard to see in the video exactly what's going on. It just looks like magic.
Ha Ha Ill call it the PFM auto retract.. I few pics its a very simple set-up.
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psezq6qf3s.jpghttp://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...pspwenjjp4.jpghttp://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psdyswvlcd.jpg
Thank you. I appreciate the business.
Since you purchased milled extruder bolts from me, I though I would mention that I just updated the documentation on my web site. With the Clough42 bolts in an Itty Bitty extruder (4:1 drive) I recommend starting with an e-steps value of 615. This assumes you're using the usual 1/16 microstepping.
Thanks for the tip, I am going to be assembling them sometime this weekend. I am planning on using the single until I am out of 3mm filament then switching to the double and 1.75 filament. While I haven't really had any issues with 3mm filament it seems like every time I go to order filament there is a ton of 1.75 available in what I am looking for and no 3mm.
Have you ever thought about trying to incorporate the Cyclops or Cimeron with your dual design?
Same here. I have always used Hexagon hot ends with 3mm filament and been very happy. I recently installed a pair of E3Dv6 hot ends for 1.75 on my 12" printer, and they're working well, also. I'm not totally sure the E3D is much better than the Hexagon or that the 1.75 is better than the 3mm. They all seem to work pretty well.
I do seem to get better layer adhesion with the 3mm Hexagons, but there are a lot of variables, so I'm not sure exactly what is causing the difference.
The Cyclops and Chimera are bowden hot ends, and all of my extruders are direct drive. I've thought about it, but I haven't put much time into it.
Clough42 - I also have interest in 1.75 mainly for availability issues rather than function. However I have an inventory of 3mm and would like to cover both. Any chance of getting an STL of an extruder block with 3mm on the right and 1.75 on the left? Or is there a liner tube out there that goes from 3mm to 1.75? if not, there should be.
/quick search shows 2mm ID 3mm OD pfte is available. Maybe a good way to go, possibly even reversable once installed.
I am a Happy IBD user although I'm kind of over dual material printing since the self support in Simplify 3d is so dang good - Thanks again.
TJC - see if you have any somewhat used BIC pens laying around. The ink tube is pretty close to 3mm OD, 2mm ID. Some people have used lengths of spent ink tubes as a liner in the 3mm-native Greg's Wade extruder body provided by MakerFarm. I've seem some pens with tubes that are too narrow - especially giveaway-type pens that are likely trying to go cheap on the amount of ink.
I dont see the need to make the hole in the extruder 1.75 the 3mm hole should have no problem with 1.75 as long as your extruder is setup for 1.75.
I ordered a meter of 3mm OD/2mm ID PTFE. I'm going to order a sampler pack of 1.75's to try, such as
http://www.amazon.com/Sunwin-1-75mm-.../dp/B00N0A8YHI
Not planning on anything flexible. I will try that to start. Thanks.