Can you export just the database and see if that is ok on a different machine ( either vm or host)
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Can you export just the database and see if that is ok on a different machine ( either vm or host)
Dunno, my brain hurt last night, so I called it a day - I'll get back to it over the weekend, or friday night.
My aluminium engineering mates had a slight problem, so while I was there I got the build plate and bottom baseplate cut.
build plate is 5mm - we went for 380mm in the end, gives me plenty edge to drill in for the 5mm bolts, or larger if necessary. It's a serious chunk of metal !
I'm assuming the printbite will loose that yellow tint when I take the backing off. Currently leaving the backing on the build plate as well till I'm ready to stick the printbite to it.
Attachment 11187
3mm Baseplate, solely to add rigidity. Once I've got some idea where stuff goes on the top, I'll get another one cut.
Attachment 11188
The white is the protective layer, on the right of this pic you can see the plastic covered side of the disc that I'll print on.
What I'll do with the plate is use 2 bolts to fix a mounting bracket to the strut and the spring and 5mm bolts will go into the bracket screw up really tight so there's only a tiny amount of play in the spring. I should be able to keep the whole arrangement rigid, so none of the wobbling issues you get with the long thin bolts on the k200.
There shouldn't be enough heat going through the bolts to ever melt the plastic.
I'll check, worst case scenario I can get some aluminium ones made :-)
The balance sheet is still currently in my favour.
I think all i got left is to finish the corner peices, carriages and effector (all, lol), build it, make it work and then get the top reinforcement bars/control panel mounts made and the top aluminium plate fitted. And a myriad of other 'little' jobs: control panel and wifi unit housing, extruder (although that might not be an issue as I've got the one I took from the flashforge and as I'm now using a nema 17 and flying extruder it's a straight fit) still need to make the suspended 'cradle', Filament holder, cable routing, endstop mounts, measurements for the smoothieware, thread the end holes in the uprights etc :-)
Once I've got it working properly (optimism :-) I can make the - probably two part - cover for the top that will protect the psu board, motors etc.
It'll probably have a face of some kind - I like to anthropomorphisise all my stuff. :-)
Practically done ;-)
CA, whats happening with your build. It been 10 days and no update. You know I am living vicariously thru your BB build. Anything new?
Question: I noticed that your PrintBite is slightly smaller that the aluminum heat bed. I ASSUME that is the actual build size. Is there any reason that you did not cover the whole bed plate, and just make (drill ) holes for the mounting adjustment screws? I am about to order my printbite ( had to use vise grips to remove a small circular build :-( ) for my K200 and wondering if I should use 200 or the full 220 mm diameter and drill out the mounting adjustment holes.
you need to leave a gap round the edge for mounting holes.
you only want the 200mm printbite.
Printbite is not cheap so only buy what you need.
I've left a 15mm rim on the build plate for mounting purposes, 5 or 6mm bolts.
Likewise the heatpad is also 350mm.
Currently been sidetracked by another project.
Building a full size sling target from 40mm polypropylene pipe: http://slinging.org/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1510836848
My current balearic target is made from wood and really heavy and takes about 20 minutes to put up and take down. Hopefully the new one will be at least as strong, but is really easy to carry and put up and take down.
As england's only half decent slinger, I desperately need to get some target practice in before the international in Mallorca next march. Hopefully this will help :-)
There's a giant austrian, In particular, I've made it my goal to beat next year.
Met my goals for this year, but next year I'd quite like another trophy - and the only way to do that is to practice, practice and then practice a bit more.
Most of the competitor have somewhere they can leave a permament target set up. I don't.
Anything left in my friends field would vanish overnight.
So I desperately need a tough, lightweight, easy to deploy full size balearic target.
I'm in some of these videos: https://www.youtube.com/user/davidmorningstar/videos
Still got an angled bracket to make and then I can start screwing things together for the back supports :-)
In other news, my mate acquired a 6mm thread tapping kit for me - so I'm been threading the ends of the main struts. That way the corner pieces and feet can be bolted on for a really secure and solid fit.
Haven't really looked, but also possible I can get a bolt through the corner piece to the side pieces as well. Which would be good.
Once I've got the slinging target made I'll be back on the BB - I'd like to get it made before new year :-)
You certainly have interesting hobbies / sports. Have fun and good luck on your new movable target.
lol just do a general search for 'curious aardvark' I get around :-)
I'm also the only brit on the worlds most popular bbq/food smoking forum.
www.smoked-meat.com
One of the very first things I made when i got a 3d printer, were stuffing tubes for my sausage stuffer :-)
drum smokers are actually really good and most garages will give you empty drums for free.
The most basic is just a couple hanging rods at the top, slightly raised charcoal basket at the bottom and a couple air inlets.
Even seen them turn out decent ribs, which is weird as the ribs are hanging down and you'd think there would be significant temperature differences.
It's on my list, lol
So after diagnosing a poorly keyboard on laptop, took it apart to discover there is no way to remove the old keyboard short of destroying the top plate. The bastards have caged the keyboard beneath a metal sheet that is plastic riveted to the top plate, no screws at all !
The keyboard keys poke through holes in the top plate.
Why????????????????????????
Had a quick go at the corner piece to end the day on a positive note. Added long channels so that the side pieces can actually be bolted in on the long axis. Between that, the side rails and the two side locking bolts, should be plenty rigid. Once you add the aluminium base and top plates, I'm wondering if I'll still need the extra supports I was going to add about 2/3 of the way up the frame.
Drum smoker - they have a rack for charcoal mid way or so, and a rack for meat up top. Used a round grill cover for the top. Adjustable air vents at the bottom. Looks and works great.
I would continue to add supports. Even though your using 40x40(?) aluminum, extra bracing cannot hurt anything except your wallet.
Oh, and I ordered Print Bite. 200 mm. Cant wait for it. Probably a week. Also going to change the firmware to the 1.0 Dev level for the bed distortion correction, although I doubt I will need it with the PrintBite.
yeah uds - ugly drum smoker. Good cookers.
Supports won't cost anything, aluminium :-)
I'm using 30x30
Just to be awkward :-)
So on the 1.0 does it actually do an auto calbration ? Or is it the same nonsense with the numbers thing, that doesn't actually work ?
Didn't you buy the auto calibration software ? or was that someone else ?
No, I did not buy any auto calibration SW.
So on the Dev 1.0 level, there are multiple fixes to the distortion correction function. The way I understand it to work (once enabled ) is you use the bed height map tool ( in repetier-host tools) and that maps the distortion on the bed. Once completed, you save it in the EEPROM with a G command ( which is not currently our firmware. Then the firmware will automatically correct for the delta z for about the first 1 mm of layer height. see https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L9URtv2LqKc
Here is the configuration utility words on it.
Attachment 11193
riiiiiight.
Still not exactly a one button: calibrate.
You see how thick that guys build plate was !
So, any update on BB?
Oh, Still no Printbite. Ordered on 11/27. Took 2 week to 'process' Still did not arrive here. Cant seem to get the tracking # from Flex3d. They are not the best at communicating.
lol no he can take a while to answer his emails.
Been cutting threads in the uprights, yeah. when bits of aluminium get caught in the threads of the cutter it buggers up the thread. So I've got one end with a great thread and one with about 3mm that'll need a longer bolt. Need to rethink the process.
Also been doing stuff on the sling target. Switched from petg to cheapo flex pla for the brackets, then ended up modding the flashforge for flexible filament. Which worked brilliantly !
So next job is finishing the carriages and corner pieces.
I dislike this time of year. All the lights get taken down and it's still short, dark, wet, miserable days. Kind of lack motivation lol
So back to Alexa for a post.
here's the thing.
I had a failed print !
Yeah i was shocked.
So figured probably time to level the printbed - haven't done it for 4 or 5 months.
Yep that needed doing, one at the back was way off. Now have all three bang on identical !
So that's that done for a few months :-)
And then I have a brain fart. Instead of zeroing z like I've always done in the past: Cold bed, thin paper.
I decided to do it like I do on the flashforge, with a hot bed. Also I didn't have paper to hand - I'd have had to get up, walk a couple of yards and remove a sheet from a printer and walk all the way back. So I used a sheet of thin card instead, 'cos I could reach that :-)
Aaaaaaannnd the next three prints all failed about 40% in. Are we surprised ? Yeah well we shouldn't be lol
So just re-zeroed with cold bed and thin paper. Same print now steaming along, way past where it came unstuck before.
Moral of this story: Don't change stuff that works :-)
Well I changed the way I was 3D Printing it could be considered that it was the right thing to do.
I have been printing on Vinyl Transfer Paper Tape for you who do not know what this is.
("It is a adhesive backed Paper used to transfer Vinyl lettering from it's adhesive backing and transfer it to it's Permanent location back lite sign, Wall, Window ect... have been printing on this for over a year now. ")
I had purchased a Build surface could have been a fake or not fake bed surface, long story short could not get two prints back to back to stick to the Bed Surface.
So I stayed with sticking the Vinyl transfer Paper Tape on top of this bed surface. Then printing on the Tape, go with what works right (well maybe).
A few weeks ago I went ahead and purchased different a bed surfaces from 2012hictech. I have been printing on this surface for over a couples of weeks now and it works, could not believe this bed surface actually worked.
Is it better than the Vinyl Transfer Paper Tape yes and no.
The Bed surface leaves no tape residue that can be washed with pure water.
Has the nozzle got to close to the surface and left marks in the Bed surface. yes!
Moral of story
We All make mistakes, And We All learn from our mistakes. If we never take a chance an try we never learn.
An that's why I use printbite :-)
No it aint cheap - does it work ? yes.
Is it exceptionally hard wearing and extremely difficult to mark ? yes.
The sheet on the flashforge has been in constant use for over 18 months.
Still as good as the day I fitted it. Considering some of the trauma it's been through. I genuinely took a hammer and metal chisel to it to remove the mymat nylon, did not mark it in any way
It's super duper tough !
Because both the delta and flashforge beds are mounted on springs, should the head 'crash', printbite is hard enough that it won't get marked before the springs depress.
Certainly with brass nozzles. Not sure how you'd fare with a hardened steel nozzle.
Totally fixed beds just seem a bad idea to me.
Difficult to get, you bet, at least for me.
Ordered on 11/27. He misplaced it in the end of year rush. Finally shipped Jan 8, 2018. Sat in Heathrow for a week. Now sitting in Kennedy . Tomorrow I will file a missing package with the US Postal Service.
Next Monday I will tell Flex3Drive it never arrived and request repayment.
Not happy............
Ah I am in the same country so that really helps.
I did see some cheap pei on amazon (or ebay) - £9 for 200x200 square. You'd have to trim it, but be interesting to see what the differences are.
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odk..._sacat=183062a
Having some bloody annoying issues at the moment.
Got a mould to print and ship.
Made lots in the past. At the moment the last 3 have had a slanted top. Sides are straight and the moulds would probably work - but I'm selling these and they need to be right.
I can see more or less what's happening. About the 1/3 mark it looks like a layer slides sideways and creates the slant. Which sort of travels up the model as it prints and results in the uneven top. The sides are perfectly straight - it's really odd.
Doesn't look like anything up with the carriages, as that would produce a different effect.
Just printed a tall cylinder and tall cube - both absolutely fine. Both taller than the moulds and no sign of any issue. So it's not something that happens at a specific height.
I've generated the stl file a few times and it previews perfectly.
Printed a some small pieces out - perfect.
Now, I do rotate the models to put the retraction point at the bottom corner where it can't effect anything.
So I'm now trying one without rotation and also no retraction during layer change.
usually I print these in a pair. and I was just getting lots of spaghetti and failed prints every time. Guess as a pair once the layer slippage occured the tops of the models were uneven and the nozzle or fan caught and knocked the back model off kilter.
Totally bizarre.
used different filaments as well - just in case.
First time since I've had the printer that I've had any kind of persistent issue.
well that worked - also matches up perfectly with one of the other halves. I have no clue how. But they line up both ways round and the ends are flush.
I'm thinking the ghost of mc escher passed through my workshop a few days back.
The weird thing is neither part looks straight, but they match perfectly - either way round.
It is weird, but I can at least post them :-)
But I've definitely got an issue. did some sheriff's badges last night (going to cowboy themed meal wednesday) and the big one definitely had some offset layers.
Have to check the pulleys on the steppers. Can't think what else it could be.
I'll lock the motors and see if any of the belts still move.
pulleys and belts absolutely fine.
Just been watching it print s deputy badge and tthe bed is moving.
It looks like the head is catching and moving it, but damned if I can see on what.
The bolts and springs are almost at maximum extension, so probably make sense to screw them right down which should make it considerably more stable.
At the moment there is almost no compression on the springs so the bed moves really easily. If I screw it right down, the springs will be a lot tighter and upward pressure should hold the bed a lot more stable.
Might also make a spacer for the cable holder, that also might be pushing the bed.
I had bed movement when I assembled mine, and I tightened the screws anout half way. That did stop the movement.
got a free evening tonight, so will do it then.
It's annoying as I've got it levelled with all three readings identical, lol
I can take it right down, my workshops is fairly cold and there's plenty air flow over the board and steppers, so not concerend about frying anything.
Might redesign the cable holder to make it more flexible as well.
We'll see.
well that should have worked.
Got an extra 5.8 mm and the bed is absolutely rock solid.
Can't move it by hand with out proper serious effort and a hammer :-)
see how she goes :-)
Doesn't that take the shock absorption out of the sprints? Is that a side purpose of the springs, or are they there just to level the bed?
GOOD NEWS, Finally got my PrintBite today. Actually got 2 as Jason put an extra one in for my troubles. Cant wait to try them.
I have been working with the tech at HE3D for my inverse fan issue. It seems to have them baffled. He was going to try a firmware 'fix' but I dont want that as it will limit the firmware I can use. ( I am thinking of Marlin as it can autolevel, but not decided. ) Now he wants detailed photos of the top and bottom side of the board in the fan connector area. Doing that tonight, then relevel the bed ( tight like you did) and install PrintBite.
I have figured out how to correct the issue with our 42mm effector that I reported here http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...slicing-in-S3D . What I did was run the part thru Netfabb 2018 Premium trial ( 15 days left ) ( and I assume that the standard free netfabb 2018 would do it ) and somehow merged both parts into one, so the 'inner square' is now joined with the outer and all slicers (S3d, KISSlicer, Slic3r and Cura ) slice it correctly ( well at least without the box walls ). Do you want it to put in your package of Mods for thingiverse?
Replaced my first nozzle yesterday. Was not printing good, I think the wood filament I used (Hatchback, about 2/3 spool ) helped ware it out. Put in a ss 0.4 and so far, I like it.
Thats my updates for the last few weeks..............
try a 0.5mm, lets you print 0.4mm layers without hassle.
With the printbite most things will need a heated bed. My standard is 50c for pla.
But some will print on a cold bed.
Flexibles don't need heated - but since I fettled the creator's extruder that's now my goto printer for flexibles, leaving alexa for all other single extrusions. I think I do use heated for colorfabbs wood filament (brilliant stuff) but pretty sure you could get away with printing it on a cold bed.
It does stick like a limpet.
And should you ever get any, under no circumstances attempt to prnt mymat nylon on printbite. Talk about a permament bond lol
I think I will invest in a couple SS nozzles, adding 0.5 into the mix. I do usually use 50*c for PLA. Thanks for the heads up for the nylon, but I do not see that material in my future.
well all I have to say is: AAAAARRRRGGGGGHHHHHHHH !!! BASTARD !
Still got weirdly slanted moulds if I do them in a pair.
Cannot find anything mechanically wrong with her.
Just printing out an ssd caddy - see how that turns out.
The other odd thing is that the moulds still work. Slot into each other and slide - no problem.
It's like one side has been shifted up slightly. But without any horizontal shift. First layer goes down clean, flat.
So how can it make a slant on the vertical axis without one on the horizontal as well ?
I have no idea, but it is.
****
ssd bracket printed perfectly, as did the two tall test prints I did when this started: a cylinder and a rectangle. So it's not necessarily an issue with the printer.
weird it is.
One at a time prints ok, but a pair causes a slant, weird indeed. How does it look in the slicer, layer view prior to printing? If you pass me the STL and or the gcode, I will give it a shot on my printer. ( unless its too big ).
So I took my printer apart again to get to the board to get to the bottom of my fan issue. I was able to capture a good clear photo that shows a burn mark and rework on the MOSFET driver for the fan. Hopefully, HE3D will now send a replacement board as I cannot repair it ( my skills are not up to it ).. Attached snippet of the photo.
Attachment 11285
Finishing the install of the PrintBite. Got acetone and will be heat soaking tonight.
heat soaking ?
Just stick it to the bed, over time all the air bubbles will disappear.
I'll stick a pic of the moulds up later, it's really bizarre.
Yeah, heat soak. Instructions say to heat bed to 110*c with a wet cloth on top of it for an hour. let it cool and do it again.
Funny, the hotbed could not get past 90* with that wet cloth on it. Anyway its done. Re-calibrated the flatness and levelness of the bed. First 3 point manually level ( with screws )and then 6 point ( 5 perimeter and center ) , only one point of the 6 is 0.05 mm off. Check Flow ( Extruder Multiplier) at 95% for best single line width. Probably do dimensional calibration tomorrow as on a 50 mm square, one side is 50.12 and the other is 50.5 . I guess I like to tinker.
Right now, I like Printbite. Once the printer was fairly calibrated, PLA ( @ 50* ) it sticks well and actually releases when cooled back to ~ 30*. No more chiseling the part off.
yep - after a short while you forget all about the print sticking and releasin part of 3d printing and just get on with the 3d printing.
All the messing about with glue, freezers, tape etc - just not necessary :-)
I genuinely am not getting paid to recommend it - I just think everyone should have it to take most of the hassle out of 3d printing.
How'd you do the 6 point calibration ?
OOPS 7 point. Basically followed this http://escher3d.com/pages/wizards/wizarddelta.php and this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tDLbqLve128 . It is all manual as you use manual controls/ gcode to lower the head to the plate and use paper as a thickness gauge. I choose 85 mm as my print radius. Enter the results for each of the 7 points remaining z-height when you have the appropriate z height clearance. The result will suggest changes to delta rod length, delta radius, tower angle changes and end stops. I use it the first time and make suggested changes. The second time, it seems to get worse. So what I do is keep measuring the nozzle height error ( i.e. remaining z-height ) and calculate the end stop steps required to make the x,y,z tower positions equal. When you have the 3 tower points ok, usually the in-between tower points are ok and just correct the center. Delta rod length effects this. Too long of a rod causes a dip in the center ( appears that the bed has a dent in it. see http://boim.com/DeltaUtil/CalDoc/Calibration.html
Clear as mud. I can explain better if you like.
lol I'll stick to the three point and screws until it stops working :-)
That how I start the calibration. 3 points and manually level using the bed screws. Then by using the endstop correction, which in Repetier is measures in steps, I can make fine tune changes of 0.0125 mm per step which is better than I can do with the screw.
screw is infinitely adjustable.
I've got all three within 2 100ths. It's good enough.
Got some i3 parts to make for someone, interested to see if they come out okay.
Post the pictures when you print them. Always interested in seeing results.
I'm getting paranoid. Test part looks fine, but I keep trying to see the slant. lol