First Try and setup - No Filament flowing through Extruder Head

I have just bought a Flashforge Creator X and after loading the ABS Filament ( it did pass through the Extruder Head ) When running a File off the SD Card nothing passes through the Extruder Head. There is a Ticking and I can feel that when I touch the Filament. Have read on here about the filament maybe too thick, is there a place I can control the Diameter on the Machines Menu?

Thanks

Ken

Also a Question, in with all the spare parts were 2 white Plastic Tubes, they are about 35mm long and the Filament can fit if I poke it though. Are these suppose to be used anywhere?

Hi Ken, the white plastic tubes I assume are PTFE tubing, which is heat resistant and is most likely used to go into your hot end nozzle to align the filament, but you probably already have some in there if they are spares.

If the filament is not feeding through the other extruder, its possible there is still some gunk in there, I would heat it up really hot to like 250c, 260c and see if that melts the factory testing goop out of there.

My Wanhao doesn't have PTFE inside the heat shield. Do they improve things?

I have a couple of meters of the ptfe tube here and wondered whether to drill out the heat shield tube to 3mm but it is a one way step with no return and they took me ages to make.

I recently changed from 0.4 to 0.3 nozzles and while one extruder is OK the other one tends to melt back if I don't print fast enough. I assume that the tube in there will cure this but would appreciate some input on the improvements / changes.

OK Solved ... My In-Experience, I created a Name from my Cad Program, Exported it as STL and then opened it in Replicator, Asved the GCode, then created the .x3G file. ... what I never picked up was the Dialog when creating the GCode, it had the Default of 80C for the Extruder Heads.

THANKS Everyone that tried to help me too, Much Appreciated

Ken

try makerware - all that kind of thing is way simpler.
I think I did 1 print with rep-g and the second - an lefab shop articulated elepahnt still hadn't sliced after 45 minutes - it slices in a couple minutes on makerware. haven't gone near rep g since.

My next job is to sit down and really work through all the settings in proftweak. I fugre there must be a guide somewhere as it's not exactly obvious what all the stuff does :-)

That said - with a flat build plate and ducted fan blowing on my print area - it pretty much prints what i want, how i want it :-)

Thanks for that Curious Aardvark, Downloading it now

Quote:

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Originally Posted by curious aardvark

try makerware - all that kind of thing is way simpler.
I think I did 1 print with rep-g and the second - an lefab shop articulated elepahnt still hadn't sliced after 45 minutes - it slices in a couple minutes on makerware. haven't gone near rep g since.

My next job is to sit down and really work through all the settings in proftweak. I fugre there must be a guide somewhere as it's not exactly obvious what all the stuff does :-)

That said - with a flat build plate and ducted fan blowing on my print area - it pretty much prints what i want, how i want it :-)

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There is a link to this document in the Profitweak app.

http://www.makerbot.com/support/make...tation/slicer/

It doesn't say what to do with each setting, just what each does. I'd say 80% of it I don't mess with much. The other 20% are layer settings, temps, speeds, filament density and thickness, and I adjust the support angle, distance and density. There are some useful dynamic speed settings that help with corner rings if you are printing fast. The dynamic speed settings slow down the extruder when it comes up to a corner.