How many files of the parts for the i3v are completed

Just wondering if anyone has taken the time to create files for the wood parts in the i3v and created some out of PLA, ABS or other materials.

I am going to take the limit switch wood pieces and do a little design work on them. I want to duplicate them except I do not want two holes to run a Zip Tie through. I want to create a recess in the back for the nut, and the holes so that I can bolt them in place. Beyond that I have wondered how many of the other parts could be created out of PLA and printed, or of other materials. Also am wanting to replace the wood that is the main body with folded sheet metal maybe, and make it look nicer, and incorporate the power supplies. I do realize that it would require me to do a little extra design and fabrication but I think in the end it would be worth it.

Maybe hit it with some Automotive grade paint and make it look good.

Any other thoughts?

Who here has customized their printer?

I painted mine before assembly to cover the laser cutter scorch marks.
I printed the top piece of the right hand X-idler assembly which carries the Z-axis end stop switch rod. http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...ate-*-stl-file
I've fitted the auto bed leveling assembly
The best mod so far has been to install three strips of LEDs around the base of the extruder assembly so that the print bed is illuminated. http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...the-Print-Area
I fitted an auto horn relay in the heatbed circuit so that the heat bed gets the full 12V (Don't try to do the same for the extruder heater or you will fritz your RAMPS board).
I moved the RAMPS board to the top of the printer for easier access to all the connections. Makes the printer look untidy, but what the heck? I can get at evrrything on the board if needs be.

Old Man Emu

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tachout

Who here has customized their printer?

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If you haven't seen it, my i3v build thread notes a number of tweaks that I made as I went, including elimination of the zip ties on the endstop switches. I kept the wood pieces wood, though.

http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...ld-by-Printbus

FOLLOWUP COMMENT: My number one gripe about the components of the i3v is the Z endstop (to be clear, this is on the i3v and not the i3 that many here have). You can't reposition the Z endstop with the accuracy needed to adjust bed clearance at the home corner, especially since the Z endstop bracket mounts to the rail with a single bolt, and any rotation of the bracket when it is tightened will significantly affect the switch action. Perhaps a redesigned X idler plate and Z endstop bracket could have an adjustable screw that points downwards on the right side of the X idler, with the screw engaging with the Z endstop switch remounted in a fixed position on the vertical rail so it is located under the screw. Something like that would be a design improvement.

I know that my bed is not level again.... not sure how come as it was. I went to print a file last night and first the extruder was clogged so had to clean it, and then when I got it all going again it started to print and on one side of the bed (Where the first of two parts were located) it was printing first pass fine... then the corner closest to home was too low compared to the rest of the bed when it went to print the second part.... I stopped the print. Cleaned the glass and got ready to start over. I leveled the bed again (There has to be a better way) and all was good to go. Went to grab some fast food and come back. Machine had been sitting at the home position. Stupid me... I did not check it and the Z endstop had rotated some and it made it read like it needed to be lower. When it when and started I was way to low. It seems to move often if I leave it on the endstop no mater how much I tighten it. I agree that I need to do something with that piece specifically. Then I set it to print, and worked on a home I am designing for someone. When I got done, I headed into the bedroom to get ready for bed, and leave the printer going all night.... Guess something happened in there as it had a Y axis shift about halfway through the part. Now the parts are junk, and the shift was about an inch. When you are printing a flat door with reliefs and windows in it, it really shows and it was ugly. Got to figure out what happened there.

Sounds like you're having a tough time of it. If the Z endstop switch is still fastened with zip ties, I'd start with fixing that. There's no way they can do a good job of holding the switch tight to the precision it needs to have, and the zip ties also mean the endstop bracket can't seat flush on the rail. Right? That's the way it seemed to me so I didn't use them at all.

My initial leveling was a pain (and the build thread has info on the no-tools-needed approach I implemented to make it easier), but after that initial leveling I've went through a number of prints without even feeling the need to recheck it. Is everything tight? The Y-bed fairly snug in the rails? Has the printer been moved in a way that would put pressure on the forward Y-idler bracket like setting the printer down on it first or using the Y-idler as a handle? I could see how doing something like that could mess up the levelness of the Y-bed. Sure you could implement auto-leveling, but it seems you've got something going on mechanically that needs to be resolved anyway.

That was quite a Y shift. I had a small one of maybe a mm on one print. All I've taken the time to do so far is archive the gcode file so I can make sure it isn't something that slic3r did.

Thank you for the reply. I got up this morning saw it all messed up and then had to run out the door for work. I will look at it tomorrow when I have time. Wish I could do it after work, but tonight we are going to the Race Track so have to get everything loaded and get out there.

Hopefully I will have some pictures to post before the weekend is out.