Overhang support

So I've had my printer for about 2 weeks, and much happier now that I switch to a glass bed with the glue sticks(thanks for all the tips). Any prints I do that are square come out perfect and stick great to the bed until the glass cools then they pop right off.

Now that I'm past the early stages and getting into more complex prints I'm lacking the knowledge on how to get these rounded prints to come out good. For example I'm looking to print this thing: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:330220

Should I be using supports in S3D? The overhangs started to look like this and I halted the job: https://goo.gl/photos/GQLVFaovTWpWe6db8
The thing says no supports needed, but knew it would be a mess, especially if it made it to the teeth

What are some good setting to start with if I'm using supports? I have used them but the support side of the model is always rough.

Is this a temp issue possibly? I was using ABS 110C/220C with a .1mm layer height and sloowww print speed of 35 mm/s

Z

That model looks like a nightmare to print on an FDM printer. I wouldn't even try it.

If I absolutely had to print it, I'd break it up a lot more than it is. Probably printing the skull int two halves so that the supported (ugly) areas are on the inside.

Another thing (unrelated to your question): 110 is too high for the HBP. Drop it to 90-95.

Yes to using supports but like dj eluded to that model is not straightforward. You will need to use manual supports in and they will have to be minimal to get them out of the layers without breaking the model.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sebastian Finke

Another thing (unrelated to your question): 110 is too high for the HBP. Drop it to 90-95.

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Curious as to why you say that when he is using a glass bed. I lose a lot of heat with mine. I preheat it for a good bit before I print and run it at 105. Anything less and I get lifting and warping with ABS.

220 is very low for abs, probably why it looks so stringy, it's just not flowing that well. Mind you the pyramid things look quite good.
have you got a print area cooling fan ?
I found that it made a helluva lot of difference with all and every print.
Also printing a little quicker and hotter won't hurt.

The original t-rex skull does print without supports, but in 2 parts and at a different angle.
No one says it needs extra supports. Remember how small the teeth will be on this model, you'll not get a lot of definition, so the over hang probably won't be an issue.
Plus if you look at the printed models, the teeth are pretty blobby.