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  1. #1
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    Got some Bronzefill :-)

    So I got aroll of this stuff for my birthday.

    read up on it and it's pretty easy to print with. 200c, cold bed. Zero warp.

    My first print is a honda logo as the guy I'm doing a christmas exchange with this year has a honda goldwing. What better little doodad than the polished bronze keyring.

    36% and looking good.

    So I have now had to add to my collection of stuff for 3d printing: steelwool for polishing, sanding paper/cloth (got paper up here but there's loads of different grit cloth in my wood working shed) also added some copper metal polish.

    My plan is to print it. Take rough edge off with a quick sand, then polish with different grades of steel wool. Then use the polish and finally buff with my rotary tool and a buffing pad.

    More shortly :-)

    Right first bronzefill item finished.

    This is the initial finished print. The raw print has the look and feel of rough stoneware ceramic.


    And a couple after sanding, wirewooling, polishing and buffing.





    It does look and feel like bronze. The lighting in here at night is bit crap for photos. I'll take another pic tomorrow in sunlight :-)
    The buffing wheel rounded the edges and gave it an aged look. Love the way the honda came out.
    Have to say I'm seriously impressed.

    Prints easy, looks and feels like metal.
    Nobody would ever guess it had been printed.

    Cool beans !

    Right I'm going to try the cuddling owls in a small size next.

    Got to say this stuff is expensive (well it is if it's not your birthday lol) but based on just this one print - it's definitely worth it :-)
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 11-25-2014 at 04:13 PM.

  2. #2
    Super Moderator Geoff's Avatar
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    Add Geoff on Thingiverse
    Nice, I have some coming this week looking forward to trying it, going to do the usual keyrings and small things first, but ideally I want to get some Pirates of the Carribean coins done for the kids to hand out at school, they are popular items.
    Hex3D - 3D Printing and Design http://www.hex3d.com

  3. #3
    Technologist Stigern's Avatar
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    I was amazed how easy it was to print overhangs etc with Bronzefill. Nice results!

    Been looking for a rock tumber or some other device where I can put my model into and let it spin together with some stuff that grinds it. Any ideas?

    EDIT: Sorry for hijacking your thread :P

  4. #4
    Student
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    Please, can I ask where you got the bronzefill from?
    I know you said it was a present, but any clue as to where I can source it from would be appreciated

    cheers

  5. #5
    Technologist Stigern's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jaykay2PT View Post
    Please, can I ask where you got the bronzefill from?
    I know you said it was a present, but any clue as to where I can source it from would be appreciated

    cheers
    I got mine from Colorfabb: http://colorfabb.com/bronzefill

  6. #6
    Student
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    Quick reply! THANK YOU and a supplier in Europe (I forgot to say I am in Portugal)

  7. #7
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    yep colorfab are the manufacturers.
    You can get it direct from them - there are also a few suppliers in the uk who sell it.

    Here's a tip for you that I should have used last night lol

    Print models hollow, then make hole in the base and fill with modelling clay. Then glue a bit of felt over the base. And you've cut down massively on material used but still got the weight.
    It's what colorfabb were doing at the tct show :-)

    I - however - printed the cuddling owls out with 20% infill.


    Oh yeah and one other thing I discovered. wirewool makes a right mess. I'd recommend using it outside otherwise you get covered in little bits of wire.

    Some people claim they get spiked and need to use gloves. I didn't have any problem using it barehanded. But bear that in mind.
    It's much easier to get into the detailed sections than sand paper as well.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by curious aardvark View Post
    Oh yeah and one other thing I discovered. wirewool makes a right mess. I'd recommend using it outside otherwise you get covered in little bits of wire.

    Some people claim they get spiked and need to use gloves. I didn't have any problem using it barehanded. But bear that in mind.
    It's much easier to get into the detailed sections than sand paper as well.
    You may find something like one of the fibreglass pens works well for clean-up (http://uk.farnell.com/duratool/d0226...4mm/dp/2102028). Can be fitted with different inserts, I have some brass ones. But do use latex gloves because they're worse than wirewool for little bits.

  9. #9
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    yeah something like that could be useful for the really fiddly bits. I can easily make something very similiar. My days of buying plastic gadgets are mostly behind me :-)

    Now the owls I printed were about 5cm tall.
    Takes a fair bit of sanding and polishing as you can't really use mechanical methods without risking removing or melting too much material.
    Be very careful with powered buffing wheels. They actually melt the plastic and remove it more than the sanding if you press too hard.
    And rather than polishing tend to re-dull the material.

    I found best way was to work my way down the grades of wirewool. Gets into the crevices much easier than sanding paper.

    Then use the polish and rub down with a soft cloth.

    Oh yeah and make sure to clean the nozzle off after printing, bits tend to accumulate around the tip.

    Currently printing a hollow ganesh that'll fill with clay.

    So far I've benn printing at .2mm and 50mms print speed. And using makerware - 'cos it's just quicker and for stuff like this works fine.
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 11-26-2014 at 10:53 AM.

  10. #10
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    If you have never used one of those then do not underestimate what they can remove! Can be quite vicious and will take copper off of a PCB without too much effort. Was thinking they would be good for getting into the more intricate bits of the part. Anyway, just a suggestion.

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