Prusa i3v 10" too "thin" prints

[Stigern]

Dunno how to explain it, but it's almost like the nozzle thinks it's lager than it is:

20141120_161052.jpg

I even tried to decrease nozzle size in Simplify3D from 0.4 to 0.3 without any changes.

Anyone got some ideas?

EDIT:

Come to think of it, this happened after I updated to latest Marlin firmware. But I think I managed to modify every aspect of it to fit my makerfarm printer:
http://pastebin.com/ETztED9K

[printbus]

One thought - your configuration.h file is showing 841 for the extruder steps per unit, the MakerFarm default value. Those that have reported making changes to the value have all said they had to increase it to get the extrusion steps per mm adjusted properly. Is there a chance you had previously determined a new value and just set it in EEPROM using the LCD, and reloading firmware blew that correction away?

I'm also assuming you've rechecked the gap between the nozzle and the print surface.

FOLLOWUP COMMENT: I later learned that uploading new firmware does not *blow away* EEPROM settings. The old settings remain there, and take precedence over updated settings loaded with the new firmware. To update EEPROM with new settings from firmware, an M502 is issued to the printer to load variable space with defaults from the firmware build, followed by an M500 to write the variables to EEPROM.

[Stigern]

One thought - your configuration.h file is showing 841 for the extruder steps per unit, the MakerFarm default value. Those that have reported making changes to the value have all said they had to increase it to get the extrusion steps per mm adjusted properly. Is there a chance you had previously determined a new value and just set it in EEPROM using the LCD, and reloading firmware blew that correction away?

I'm also assuming you've rechecked the gap between the nozzle and the print surface.

Thanks, I'll look into that too.

But you know, it was the gap that did it! *ashamed*

EDIT:

While looking trough the code, I found this:

// This makes temp sensor 1 a redundant sensor for sensor 0. If the temperatures difference between these sensors is to high the print will be aborted.
//#define TEMP_SENSOR_1_AS_REDUNDANT

And to me it shounds like a great idea to have a separate sensor somewhere next to the extruder, as I bought plenty as spare ones. Anyone used this feature?

[TechMasterJoe]

Thanks, I'll look into that too.

But you know, it was the gap that did it! *ashamed*

EDIT:

While looking trough the code, I found this:



And to me it shounds like a great idea to have a separate sensor somewhere next to the extruder, as I bought plenty as spare ones. Anyone used this feature?

in a long story
I'm just now buying my "first" 3dprinter lol (M.F. 12" i3V. soon to be pure metal build)
i have built / repaired around 30 at this point and the last 2 cheap aliex**** i3 printers that some class mates got had major problems out of the box they had mezli v1 boards 1 had a bad stepper driver and a cooked on board 7805
both seamed stuck at 1/8 micro.
tossed the boards and installed Ramps 1.4 with and K-type setup but i used it with the stock sensor and used that setting. I tested it by unplugged a wire from the epocos and in about 3 sec it kills the print..
i liked the idea at first but ended up modded the code a bit to be a little more forgiving in range and a delay of about 10sec so temp swings don't false trigger it.
i got that printer with 40w heater and 1.75mm/.5mm printing 180mm/s rapids at 210mm/s after a ton of FW modding. keep in mind i used xy jerk and acel settings to keep it in check so on small moves it averaged around 60mm/s

I'm going with a makerfarm i3v 12" my self because it has a RAMBo board over the RAMPS board i have a ton of E3D v6 hotends i made at work on the haas GT10 / mini mill.( i got the gcode down now so i can make all the parts in about 9mins)
so i'm going to build a dual hotend 26.2:1 GEARED NEMA 8 setup Direct Drive "bodwin has to many catch 22's" chances are it's will still be smaller then the stock printer setup..