Ubuntu connectivity to ramps

[usarmyaircav]

In the Marlin firmware's configuration.h file, there's a place near the top to set the baud rate:

// This determines the communication speed of the printer
//#define BAUDRATE 250000
#define BAUDRATE 115200

is how I have mine set.

Ok, I have been working too much with too little sleep. I modified the firmware, opened Arduino, uploaded it with 115200 set. Then Opened Pronterface and was able to connect. I got an error that the printer stopped but I am sure that is cause nothing is hooked to the board yet. So that is progress. Thanks for all the help all.!!!!!!!

[gmay3]

Woohoo! Are you almost ready to print usarmyaircav?

[usarmyaircav]

Woohoo! Are you almost ready to print usarmyaircav?

Yeah I think so. Time to hook up all the connections, level the bed, heat the hotend and re-tighten, measure e-steps, and print a test cube, does that sound about right?

[gmay3]

Yeah sounds good. Also, make sure to set the stepper driver voltage to the value in your manual before printing.

You probably won't need to measure e-steps for your first print, you can use the default settings in the files Colin provided for your first prints and it should come out just fine. Just something to cut out if you're looking to get printing asap

A few tips on what held me up when I built mine:

If you find your X axis is going the wrong way (towards the stepper motor) when you home your axes in pronterface for the first time, just flip the stepper motor connector around on your RAMPS board.

Use something thicker than a sheet of paper like a guitar pick or thin stack of post-its when you first try to level your bed. In addition to adjusting the 3 leveling screws remember that you can also adjust the z threaded rods in case your z axis isn't level.

Let us know if you have any questions and have fun!

[AbuMaia]

To help with bed leveling, you may want one of your first prints to be a pair of knobs that will fit the top of your Z rods, to make them easier to hold and turn. I use these: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:157421 Use two nuts for each to lock them in place. One inside the knob, one below, tightened together.

[usarmyaircav]

To help with bed leveling, you may want one of your first prints to be a pair of knobs that will fit the top of your Z rods, to make them easier to hold and turn. I use these: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:157421 Use two nuts for each to lock them in place. One inside the knob, one below, tightened together.

Great idea thanks!!! I am off tomorrow, so am hoping to make a lot of progress tomorrow and over the weekend.

[AbuMaia]

Let us know if you need anything. I, too, am off tomorrow, but I'll likely be out shopping most of the day.

[usarmyaircav]

I got the printer wired up except the hot end fan as I didn't get those connector pins in my kit. I am debating on just hard wiring it or trying to find those pins.

Also I am unsure about what wires to use between the power supply and the ramps and the heat bed relay. Thoughts?

[printbus]

I got the printer wired up except the hot end fan as I didn't get those connector pins in my kit. I am debating on just hard wiring it or trying to find those pins.

Also I am unsure about what wires to use between the power supply and the ramps and the heat bed relay. Thoughts?

I think the intent is to cut off whatever connector is on the hot end fan and hardwire it. Many of us have added a connector to make disassembly of the extruder easier, but it increases the risk that the connector is apart for some reason and the fan isn't running when you need it to.

On the heat bed relay wiring, are you asking what wire gauge to use? It's a pretty good place to use some hefty wire to minimize the voltage drop through it, leaving more room for the smaller gauge wire typically provided with the heat beds. I used some #14 stranded wire I had for my smaller 8-inch heat bed.

[AbuMaia]

Yes, hotend fans should run constantly, so just bare the ends of the fan wires and connect them where the wires from the power supply connect to RAMPS.