Printbus, Help!

[Zulfe]

Just received my heat bed relay. I connected one wire of the bed to J2 and ground from my PSU to J2. I connected the other wire to the OUT terminal on J1 and 12v to the IN on J1. My bed still isn't heating. I have changed any firmware yet. According to what I downloaded from the build guide (which I assume is what my printer is running), my motherboard type is 33. I assume this is so because I found '#define MOTHERBOARD 33' in the configuration.h file included in the download in the i3v 8" build guide. Is there something I'm missing, maybe a specific pin redefinition for the heat bed?

I need it to go to D09 instead of staying on D10.

[printbus]

Just received my heat bed relay. I connected one wire of the bed to J2 and ground from my PSU to J2. I connected the other wire to the OUT terminal on J1 and 12v to the IN on J1. My bed still isn't heating. I have changed any firmware yet. According to what I downloaded from the build guide (which I assume is what my printer is running), my motherboard type is 33. I assume this is so because I found '#define MOTHERBOARD 33' in the configuration.h file included in the download in the i3v 8" build guide. Is there something I'm missing, maybe a specific pin redefinition for the heat bed?

I need it to go to D09 instead of staying on D10.

Message received. Please stand by. With now two people struggling with heat bed relay wiring, I'll put together some wiring diagrams and try to explain things more than the build guide does. As soon as I finish packing for a couple weeks of international travel, I'll get on it. If anyone else wants to jump in, go ahead.

[Zulfe]

I attempted to fix it myself by editing some code in the pins.h file. I found the motherboard 33 pin setup and changed the bed to 9. When I hooked everything up, uploading the firmware, and ran it using Pronterface, either my board or the relay started rapidly clicking. I immediately turned off my PSU, afraid that I was frying my RAMPS board. I contacted Colin and told him about my issue. He modified and sent me some code. I uploaded it and ran it, but had the same issue when heating the bed from Pronterface. I told him about it and he said:

Usually it won't click rapidly, but I have seen that happen when using non stock firmware, since you are using the firmware I sent over I wouldn't think it would click on and off rapidly (once less then ever second)

When I try and heat the bed from the printer LCD, it doesn't making the clicking noise except once as soon as I initiate the heating. Is it just that Pronterface is sending the same code over and over to the printer, causing it to do this? Just the noise scares me, and my heating LED which is normally very bright is only ~15% its normal brightness, which also worried me.

[AbuMaia]

I have the relay board (from MakerFarm) connected thus: the two wires soldered to the relay board I have plugged into D8 on RAMPS. Negative wire from the power supply plugs into IN, one wire from the heat bed plugs into OUT. The other terminal block holds the Positive wire from the power supply and the other wire from the heat bed. I did not have to make any firmware changes to use the relay board. I use motherboard 33.

[Zulfe]

I have the relay board (from MakerFarm) connected thus: the two wires soldered to the relay board I have plugged into D8 on RAMPS. Negative wire from the power supply plugs into IN, one wire from the heat bed plugs into OUT. The other terminal block holds the Positive wire from the power supply and the other wire from the heat bed. I did not have to make any firmware changes to use the relay board. I use motherboard 33.

Are you sure that's correct? I configured mine according to the Makerfarm site which says:

Connect J2 to one heat bed wire and GND from your power supply. Connect J1 In to 12v+ from your power supply and connect the other heat bed wire to J1 out, then connect the two small Pre-Soldered wires to your Heat Bed out put of your electronics (D8 for RAMPS, Heat bed port for Printrboard etc)

[AbuMaia]

Yes, it's correct. It's been working for me with no trouble. The only difference is I have my Negative and Positive 12v wires on opposite blocks than your instructions state. Why didn't you leave it on D8 instead of switching it to D9 and making lots of work?

[Zulfe]

Yes, it's correct. It's been working for me with no trouble. The only difference is I have my Negative and Positive 12v wires on opposite blocks than your instructions state. Why didn't you leave it on D8 instead of switching it to D9 and making lots of work?

My heater cartridge is connected to D08. I just talked to my father (an electrician) and he said that there's an issue with whatever switches it on and off. When I turn the bed off in Pronterface, the clicking starts (the switch attempting to turn the relay on/off) and the relay heats the bed up regardless. I just now attempted to heat it up and when it reached 110C the clicking started. The relay continued and the bed reached 114C before I turned off my PSU. Either my wires from the PSU are backwards, my wires from the board to the RAMPS controller are backwards, or the whole RAMPS board is shot and not controlling the relay properly. If I can't solve this issue I'm going to buy a new RAMPS board. I'd rather have something I know that works than something that will continue heating and burn my house down.

Here's a video I took of the sound and the affect it's having on the printer (the LED): https://www.dropbox.com/s/8fg0os3b96...26545.mp4?dl=0

[AbuMaia]

Huh, the nozzle heater should be on D10, with the hotbed (or relay) connected to D8. If you have a print cooling fan, it'd attach to D9.

[Zulfe]

Huh, the nozzle heater should be on D10, with the hotbed (or relay) connected to D8. If you have a print cooling fan, it'd attach to D9.

You're right. My nozzle heater is connected to D10. I had them confused. My D08 has melted down due to either overcurrenting or loose wires (probably the latter). I'm connected to D09 as a replacement. Colin from MakerFarm has told me that it could be an issue with my mosfet. I think if I throw a diode between one of the wires I'll be fine. The LED on the board that goes off in sync with the clicking could mean that there is backlash causing the board to short for a split second.

[printbus]

When you modified pins.h, did you also redefine the pin for the print fan? In the earlier thread discussing your melt-down, I proposed swapping the two values. Maybe there's a conflict going on if pin 9 is defined for both the print fan and the heat bed.