Power Supply Wiring I3v 10"

[usarmyaircav]

So I bought a 12v 30a Dc Universal Regulated Switching Power Supply 360w. I think I saw that jtice is using one, and also printbus. Is there anything specific that needs to be done for these rather than a PC style power supply? The build doc only shows the PC style.

I noticed that it looks like jtice has what I think is a switch wired into the power cable going to the power supply. Any suggestions on types or requirements to look for when getting something like that?

Plus any other advice is appreciated.

Todd

[jtice]

No mods are needed on those types of power supplies.
I put one output to the RAMPS, which piggy backs to the second RAMPS power input.
(that second power input on the RAMPS is usually to power the bed, but in the 10" it just powers the relay for the bed)
Then the second output on the power supply goes to the relay for the heated bed.

The switch I placed inline it one I use on alot of stuff like fans, my soldering iron, etc.
They are a few bucks from walmart, lamp cord switches I think they call them.

[printbus]

No special considerations with the Mean-Well type 12V supplies. They'll turn on when AC is applied to the input terminals. You don't have the complexity of the PC-type power supplies where you have to short pins together to act as a power switch or put a load on the 5v supply in order for the 12v output to be in spec.

I also have a power switch in line with the AC wiring. You can see it in some of my build pictures on the upper part of the front face - sort of where the MakerFarm spool holder goes. Is there any kind of label on the power supply saying what it can draw as far as AC current? If so, going with a switch rated for at least that at 120VAC would be the safest way to go. FWIW, the datasheet for my 320-watt MeanWell says it can draw up to 6 amps. Whether you use push-button or toggle is based on personal preference and on what you can find if you're looking locally like at Ace Hardware or Radio Shack. I'd be wary of an auto store - many of those switches may only be rated for 12VDC and could arc if used at 120V.

[printbus]

There maybe is one consideration for the 12V supplies that doesn't apply to the PC-type power supply. The 12V supplies usually have an adjustable output voltage. It'd be a good idea to check the voltage adjustment. AFAIK, all the related load calculations assume 12.0 volts, not 13.8V as might be used for power supplies feeding automotive equipment.

[usarmyaircav]

ok, I will make sure I check the output with my multimeter, and also look for a on/off switch I can wire in.