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  1. #1

    i3v 10" Bed flexing downward (impacting Y idler bracket)

    Anybody ever had this? The eccentric spacers aren't overtightened, but the bed is still "bowed" downward, which makes it strike the top of the Y axis idler bracket. Since this is well before the Y endstop, this caused the motor to get very unhappy on a trip to Home, and start skipping teeth, and make an awful noise, trying to get to the Y endstop. I suppose a picture is probably in order. :/
    20141012_220938.jpg
    Last edited by theAut0; 10-12-2014 at 09:19 PM.

  2. #2
    Banned
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    West Virginia
    Posts
    100
    Add jtice on Thingiverse
    Wow that looks bowed alot.
    Is this a new printer? If so, contact Makerfarm, they will make it right.
    I read someone else had one warping really bad when heat was applied to the bed.

  3. #3
    Yeah. It's about a week old.

    EDIT: He's got one on the way. I wish I knew what caused it, though. :/ At first, I thought maybe the spacers were too tight, pulling the bed together, but they weren't. Just enough to keep the bed from wiggling.
    Last edited by theAut0; 10-13-2014 at 12:01 AM.

  4. #4
    I had this issue, it wasn't hitting the idler bracket, but it was bowed enough that the eccentric spacers couldn't be tightened enough to hold the bed stable and it would wobble. I also started about a week after I finished putting the printer together. I emailed Colin, an he sent me a new bed the next day. Its been about 3 weeks since I installed the new bed and it is fine so far. The baltic birch plywood ought to be pretty stable against warping, but there must be the occasional bad batch.

  5. #5
    Hey, orionthunter: We'll have to let each-other know as things go on. If yours acts up again, let me know, and I'll do the same. I'm with you, this isn't flimsy stuff. That might be why I'm kinda confused as to what caused it.

  6. #6
    Technologist
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Oklahoma
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    191
    Add usarmyaircav on Google+ Add usarmyaircav on Thingiverse
    I am nearing the end of my build, working on the electronics now, and waiting for Colin to ship me a m3 x 50mm bold for the extruder that somehow got stripped out. Will be interesting to see if I have the same issue or not.

  7. #7
    I had the same problem ,i had some 3mm aluminum sheet stock ,and used the old bed as a template to cut it to shape ,no more warping . Also went to a HVAC place for some good insulation(for between the heated plate and the aluminum) ,and now the bed heats up twice as fast .

  8. #8
    hal9000: What did you end up getting? My bed is awful slow, but I figure that's what the big bed does. Rocking a pizza box, atm. Doubled up, since they're thin. There are some hardware stores around, but I wouldn't know what to buy.

  9. #9
    Engineer
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Eastern Colorado
    Posts
    536
    I found some 12x12 inch sheets of 5mm thick cork somewhere. Cut out an 8x8 inch square, cut out holes and notches for the bolts and binder clips, haven't had any trouble.

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by theAut0 View Post
    hal9000: What did you end up getting? My bed is awful slow, but I figure that's what the big bed does. Rocking a pizza box, atm. Doubled up, since they're thin. There are some hardware stores around, but I wouldn't know what to buy.
    I got some fluffy insulation form the air-co heating shop, it is foil backed ,rated to 300 deg f, i turned the fluffy part toward the bed ,after i had peeled it down to about 3/4 inch thick ,then i taped the edge of the foil to the bed ,making it as air tight as i could .i used shiny silver furnace tape ,also from the HVAC place.they gave me enough scraps to do it ,so i had no cost at all.

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