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  1. #21
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    Add jtice on Thingiverse
    I have Prime also, and I think thats one I saw on there also, but I cant find any specs on it.
    The one Clough42 links to is 3 CPM, which I think is pretty good for a 25mm fan, thats why I was trying to find that spec for the Amazon one.

  2. #22
    Technologist dacb's Avatar
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    I Primed the servo because I was impatient: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CCZ2CRA

    Works great. Used the rest of the servos for stuff I've printed with the 3d printer.

  3. #23
    Thanks guys, was hugely helpful. I did it hot and got some good results. I've printed Clough42's z stops and will do the improved fan after a move.

  4. #24
    Greatly enjoying the new z stop, wasn't going to do anything till after the move, but then saw the Rosetta comet obj ( http://www.bbc.com/news/science-environment-29482548 ) one thing led to another and I'm trying to figure out why my z seems to rise a bit too much at regular intervals. I saw this when printing a spare Gear Kit and my fix was to use a different kit. These prints were done one after another not at the same time. Using Slic3r 1.1.7 and converted the obj using Sketchup Non-commercial 14.1.1283 and SimLab 4.0 OBJ Importer trial (several times).

    DSC05818.jpg

  5. #25
    Anyone have the wrench sizes for the M5 nuts and the eccentric spacer please? Upon stetting up again I notice that my X carriage can giggle and need to get it tighter, I think that might be causing my print problem above. Anyone have any tips for keeping the thermistor in the hot end?

  6. #26
    Staff Engineer printbus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by eghm View Post
    Anyone have the wrench sizes for the M5 nuts and the eccentric spacer please? Upon stetting up again I notice that my X carriage can giggle and need to get it tighter, I think that might be causing my print problem above. Anyone have any tips for keeping the thermistor in the hot end?
    8mm wrench. What hot end do you have? I followed a suggestion by ZennmasterM and used a dab of Permatex Muffler & Tailpipe sealer to hold the thermistor in the hex hot end. It's held surprisingly well.

  7. #27
    Quote Originally Posted by printbus View Post
    8mm wrench. What hot end do you have? I followed a suggestion by ZennmasterM and used a dab of Permatex Muffler & Tailpipe sealer to hold the thermistor in the hex hot end. It's held surprisingly well.
    Thanks printbus. I've got a 0.4mm hexagon for 3mm filament.

  8. #28
    I've noticed that when I do tall prints, my Z axis ends up being noticeably no longer level. Is this something the metal Z connectors could help with? I assume I'ld want the 5mm to 8 mm ones?

  9. #29
    Staff Engineer printbus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by eghm View Post
    I've noticed that when I do tall prints, my Z axis ends up being noticeably no longer level. Is this something the metal Z connectors could help with? I assume I'ld want the 5mm to 8 mm ones?
    I think some others have reported the tubing connectors softening on long prints and starting to slip. Your printer likely has the stepper motors that get very hot in use, so softening of the tubing is a likely possibility. Have you already added zip ties to the couplers to help keep them tight?

    You'd want 5mm x 5mm couplers, since the motor shafts are 5mm and the threaded rods are M5. The metal couplers bring a few things to consider. To provide fit tolerance, the M5 rods aren't really 5mm in diameter - they're something like 4.8mm. So, they can be tough to grip with the couplers. There are two types of metal couplers. One has split ends, with a single screw that pulls the end of the coupler together to tighten on the shaft. With these, you can add foil or foil tape to the rod to thicken it, and/or tighten the screw essentially as hard as you dare without snapping it. There's another type of coupler that uses two set screws to tighten on the shaft instead of the split end. They're harder to find, but are arguably a better way to go. The spiral cut of the typical coupler can lead to an audible ringing noise as the motors turn. A few turns of clear packaging tape on mine dampened the ringing enough to eliminate it.

    EDIT: Also note that if you still have the Z endstop bracket mounted behind the area of the coupler, the large diameter of the metal coupler requires you to use a ball end driver on the endstop bracket.

    FWIW, here's a link to some of the dual set screw couplers - http://www.amazon.com/Toolmall-Stepp...+shaft+coupler
    Last edited by printbus; 12-06-2014 at 08:33 AM.

  10. #30
    Quote Originally Posted by printbus View Post
    Have you already added zip ties to the couplers to help keep them tight?
    Nope, I haven't, but I'll do that and put a couple of Z couplers on my shopping list. Thanks!

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