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  1. #41
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=80HsW4HmUes maybe watching the Explanation video will help you to see how it works Robert Goddard.

  2. #42
    Student
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Oregon
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    Again, thanks for the responses. I was misdirected on where the printing surface is applied. Another post threw me off in understanding. The science is against the posts who disagreed with my comment of saline, epoxy and UV. Polyepoxides are widely known to break down in these environments. Which is why they use additives to block the UV. Its one of the reasons i went to polyurethanes in my designs. Cheaper and better resistance to these environments after curing. Again, i do think this design is brilliant. I think moreso from appreciation and not practicality. As an inventor i hope they prove me wrong. I read about a design that prints the entire layer at a time. An engineer out of China. I want to say projector bulbs. Something like 100 times the print speed. Eitherway, i remember my Dad buying a dot matrix printer when inkjets were way better. All for the simple reason of cost. And where did they get you? It was always the ink. Epson just now finally put out a quality printer that can be refilled. I will stick to fused filament for now. As for my other ideas, only my faults got noticed. Carbon nanotube printables in a lengthier composite strand which is impossible with fused filament? Probably the greatest characteristic of liquid beds is its cellular composite potential. If you do put this out at for less than 100 bones, i will buy 20 as charity for my old school.

  3. #43
    Student
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    22

    Lightbulb Slice Pause for Higher Viscosity Resin and Fewer Voids

    Quote Originally Posted by Eddie View Post
    As you know, several of the Peachy Printer guys frequent this unofficial forum. I thought it would be a good idea to create this thread to take suggestions for the Peachy Printer. Perhaps your idea would be something that would help put Peachy Printer over the top, and make it just that much better.

    Let's hear your ideas!
    I lucked into a 55-gallon drum of clear UV cured resin, but I suspect it has a higher viscosity than Peachy Juice, though I may be able to thin it. (Does anybody know the viscosity of Peachy Juice (in centistokes or Zahn cup) or the maximum viscosity resin that Peachy is designed for?)

    Regardless, it should be possible to install a solenoid valve in the Peachy drip tube, and set the drip rate near the maximum rate. Whatever the software determines the slice thickness to be, when the drip count is reached, the computer could raise a flag on a USB port and pause for a programmed interval before scanning the slice with the laser. The output signal would close the solenoid valve and stop the drip during the pause interval. This would allow time for the resin to flow over the previously-exposed layer and any bubbles to pop or voids to fill.

    After the slice is scanned by the laser, the flag would drop to open the solenoid valve and the process would repeat. Even for normal low-viscosity resin, this modification might allow faster printing or better quality prints. Anybody know how to make this hack happen? What programming tools do I need to modify the Windows version of the Peachy programs?

    Anybody want a sample of the resin to experiment with? It is Quakercoat 021-UV Clear. It can be thinned with Sartomer 5102 monomer (not sure where to get that yet).
    Thanks, DonS

  4. #44
    I was thinking that the high viscosity would cause the surface tension of the resin to prevent it from covering the surface, by "grabbing" the edges of the print and not flowing over the top.

    If all else fails you can use the resin you have to fill the shelled/hollow prints.

  5. #45
    Student
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    22

    Lightbulb Pause, Dunk, Print

    Quote Originally Posted by DoulosDS View Post
    ".... Whatever the software determines the slice thickness to be, when the drip count is reached, the computer could raise a flag on a USB port and pause for a programmed interval before scanning the slice with the laser. The output signal would close the solenoid valve and stop the drip during the pause interval. This would allow time for the resin to flow over the previously-exposed layer and any bubbles to pop or voids to fill...."
    From another suggestion: the flag signal could also trigger dunking a displacer in the print tank to raise the resin level momentarily and ensure the previously printed slice is evenly covered with fresh liquid resin. The displacer would have a tapered base to minimize waves and a time delay would be programmed for resin to flow off the displacer and any disturbance of the resin to settle before the next slice is printed. A micro controller (R-Pi?) and stepper motor would lower and raise the displacer, with a sensor to maintain the approximate depth of displacement as the resin rises in the tank, and keep the tip of the displacer just under the surface to prevent drips during the print. The displacer would begin to lower when the flag indicates the laser has completed scanning the current slice, while the drip system is running. When the solenoid stops the drip, the displacer would be raised as quickly as can be done without undue disturbance of the resin.

  6. #46
    Here is a fairly bad sketch of what I was going to set up for my drip system to minimize the chance of disturbing the resin layer. Using a 1" pvc pipe to contain the drips, this would also work for your dip system I would think.

    Untitled.jpg

  7. #47
    Student
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    22

    Pause, Pump, Print

    There are so many good ideas on these forums! As I read, I keep getting more inspirations...

    OK, the displacer would work fine, but an even better method uses a positive displacement pump, driven by a stepper motor. (I'm assuming the drip system is far more precise than the pump, but the pump is sufficiently precise for pumping repeated volumes.) At the end of the slice print, the flag signal opens the solenoid valve and the drip system begins adding brine to raise the resin to the level of the next slice. Meanwhile the pump is also adding brine by a precise number of revolutions. When the drip count is complete, the excess brine has caused the resin to cover all the previously exposed slice. The pump is then run in reverse by the same number of revolutions, returning the resin level to the height of the next slice. A short pause would allow any movement of the resin to cease before the next slice is scanned.

    However, if the stepper-driven pump is sufficiently precise for positioning the resin from slice to slice, the pump can replace the dripper system. It would raise the resin enough to cover all the previous slice, using X revolutions; then lower it to the level of the next slice, using -X+slice revolutions. I think this could speed up the printing process significantly.







  8. #48
    Hi,
    Maybe a stupid idea, but if you have this side-pipe. Would it be possible to raise the waterlevel by airpressure, maybe with co2 soda mixer cartridge, in this pipe? After that you only have to open a valve and you would come back to the original level

  9. #49
    You'd want to be careful with the gas gradually dissolving into the saline though when you create a pressure differential like that. Then it could off gas as soon as it goes around the bend and potentially disrupt the print.

  10. #50
    attn.: Peachy Printer Staff

    Pre-Ordering / PayPal

    Please add PayPal to the payment options. I tried to pre-order but am left out from that possibility because you did not yet add PayPal support. I do not have a credit card I want to use on websites (the last one was illegally used by web-based thieves after I used a US-American website for credit card based payment). Please assist as soon as possible. Thanks.
    Last edited by Sven.L; 04-09-2016 at 11:59 PM.

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