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  1. #211
    Staff Engineer printbus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TopJimmyCooks View Post
    Really like what you've done. I copied a lot of your wire management moves a while back. I'm curious about what drove the desire to upgrade from ramps to smoothieboard?
    One, I started looking at the mess I had on the electronics side of the printer and figured there had to be a simpler way. The Arduino/RAMPS/stepper driver stackup, the heat bed relay, a triple MOSFET switch board added to provide more switch controls than RAMPS offers, a 5v/12v fanout board to deal with the extra power distribution, and all the wiring in-between. Two, I spent several days putting together a cross reference showing the mapping flow from MEGA2560 processor pins to the Arduino 2560 schematic, the Arduino 2560 board (which is marked different in some ways than the schematic), the RAMPs schematic, and the RAMPS board (which is also labeled different from the schematic), and simply concluded the almost incoherent mapping was nuts. Three, then there's the nibble data transfers with the LCD that would get out of sync and garble up my display data far too often...

    Four, in general, I think Marlin has seen it's day. I've never had much of anything good to say about Arduino base Marlin is built on except it's great for kids building simple school projects. Having been around a long time, Marlin has underwent countless mods. Some of these have been made by people who understand programming microcontrollers, but many were not. The lack of consistent coding style is frustrating in trying to review Marlin code. Marlin is just getting more and more complex as far as processing needs, and if the MEGA2560 processor isn't up against it's bandwidth limit, it will be soon. The latter drove me to a 32-bit processor solution, not just an integrated board solution like RAMBO or RUMBA, and I wanted to jump to a fresh start of a firmware baseline, perhaps better designed from the ground up for what it is doing. And perhaps a firmware baseline subjected to more revision scrutiny than Marlin.

    So why Smoothieboard and not some other 32-bit solution? I admit I could have or should have probably done more research on that. Sure there are other 32-bit options either in the pipeline or already on the table. I guess I'd say with Smoothieboard I'm using a product with around two years of legacy behind it now. I'm not sure how many other 32-bit solutions can say that. Firmware is still arguably a bit weak, but the basic functionality for our type of 3D printer is there. I've seen a few reliability quirks, but I'm still early in the game with it. It's also too soon to say whether I see any substantial difference in the printing process or in print quality from the tweaked Marlin baseline I was running, but those weren't significant factors in wanting to switch.
    Last edited by printbus; 06-17-2015 at 02:07 PM.

  2. #212
    Staff Engineer printbus's Avatar
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    For any thread followers that have contemplated using the edge-mounted Delta BFB0512VHD-SP01 blower for a print cooler as I did in post EXTRUDER REBUILD AND NEW PRINT COOLER (Part 2 of 2), note that the blower is now obsolete. If a blower is needed, order one soon from available stock currently remaining at Digikey. I am not aware of a suitable replacement once that supply is gone.

  3. #213
    printbus - thanks for posting all of the great information. I'm finishing building a 10" i3v, and have included a smoothieboard from the start. Can you share your smoothieware config settings? I have the basic machine config items (pins, steps, etc.) worked out, but would appreciate your experience with speeds, accelerations, etc. I have also reviewed your detailed thread on marlin configuration, so I'm aware of what you've learned & documented there. I'm not 100% clear on mapping that over to the smoothie config.

    Thanks again, this is such a great resource you have provided.

  4. #214
    Staff Engineer printbus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Carter View Post
    Can you share your smoothieware config settings?
    This is the config file I'm currently using with the April 27 2015 Smoothieware build - https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/...525_config.txt

    Changes I've made from the distribution config.txt file are annotated with comments that include initials KJB and a date code consisting of YYMMDD. IIRC, I started with the same feedrates I had been using in Marlin, and left jerk/acceleration at the Smoothieware defaults. I've been pretty happy with things as they are, and have been busy on a lot of stuff unrelated to 3D printing. So, I haven't undertaken the effort to push the Smoothieware settings much.

    I like the Smoothieboard solution, but I do have to watch out for two problems that occur fairly randomly. I have the hot end fan controlled so that it runs only when the hot end is above room temperature. For some reason the fan isn't turned on about one out of every 4th or 5th print and I'll have to reset the printer and try again. I've also had issues with the printer locking up mid-print. The latter may be a USB communication error with Simplify3D, but it occurs infrequent enough that I haven't done anything about it other than log when it occurs. After a year with Marlin I had no qualms letting it run for hours unattended. Due to the occasional lock up, I try to stick in the area now when the printer is running.

  5. #215
    Thanks! This is very helpful.

    I have my hotend fan wired directly to the power supply, so the temp-controlled fan issue you mention should not be a problem for me.

    Interesting to see that we both chose the same route to connect the second z motor, slaving epsilon to gamma. At some point I'm planning to add a second extruder, so will need to add an external stepper driver at that time.

  6. #216
    Staff Engineer printbus's Avatar
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    Yeah, that was my idea too. Use the fifth driver for the second z motor, and if I ever migrate to a second extruder, I'll find a way to gang the two z motors in parallel.

  7. #217
    Hello and thank you for this very detailed build thread! Will be very useful to me for my new MakersFarm prusa i3v 10" kit. I am curious how much this will pertain to the newer and bigger kit. I'm not sure if there is any difference other than size? I am debating to paint mine I'm wondering if I should mess with it I usually feel like a kid on Christmas day when I receive something new and rush to put everything together... Going to refrain from that as much as possible as this is my first printer and I'm a complete newb. I am curious how you like simplify3d I see you have it listed in your sig. I am debating to just get this and use it right out of the gate with this new printer. Also I'm from Fort Morgan CO glad to see a fellow Colorado member right off the bat!

  8. #218
    Super Moderator RobH2's Avatar
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    Glad you are diving in tfast500. First of all the MakerFarm is a great printer. I'm able to print some amazing parts and assemblies with mine. I've had it almost two years and it is as stable and sound as ever.

    I started out using all of the free slicers I could find. They all have unique capabilities here and there that give each one of them merit. Kisslicer gave me one of the cleanest prints I've ever gotten. Meshmixer has an interesting support system. Pronterface has a nice interface and has lots of good control settings. Skeinforge it the worst god awful interface you'll ever see but is one of the most complete set of controls you'll find. It's very, very confusing and difficult to wrap your head around at first but if you are dedicated, it can do almost anything. Cura became my favorite for a long time but it lacked a number of controls that I liked in other slicers.

    I just kept wishing I could get all of those slicers and combine them. Well, someone did. Simplify 3d. Yes, it costs something but usually things that "cost" outperform things that are free. That's common sense. Sure, you can print all day long using free slicers and be happy. But, if you print all day long, that means you are probably trying to make some money with your printer. And if you are trying to make money with your printer, a small investment (about the cost of 4 rolls of filament) S3D will make your like much more pleasant. It's worth every penny. Sure, they don't have a demo, but the developers are really nice people. If you buy it and have issues they will work with you to figure it out. I've talked to them a couple of times and they quickly ironed out my "user error" issues. They also told me that if they worked with me and could not get it to perform the way I needed it to or expected it to, they'd refund my money for the purchase. I never came close to asking for a refund. You can't get any better support than that. Next to Colin at Makerfarm, I've rarely seen as good of a support team.

    There are a lot of people here who will agree with me that if you go with S3D you'll be so glad and you'll never look back. But don't just take my word for it. Sometimes the best way to appreciate something is to have experienced something else for a bit so you are able to compare. I might suggest that you play with and use the free programs for a few months, test them, get used to them, be frustrated by them. Then, get S3D and you'll see why it's so good. You'll see how it outshines the free slicers. If you never use the free slicers you'll have no way to make that comparison. But, be assured, if you skip the free slicer experience and go for S3D, you can rest assured you did the right thing and eliminated a whole lot of initial frustration.

    Good to see you here as a newbie. Soon you won't be a newbie. There are some really, really talented people here who range from students printing phone cases at home to commercial printing houses, all who weigh in with fantastic advice and expertise. I'd encourage you to search this forum to solve your issues. Many of the newbie questions have been thoroughly answered. The "search" algorithm in this forum is pretty bad and it's sometimes hard to find things, but if you can't find answers, ask. Someone will help you.
    Bambu P1S/AMS
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  9. #219
    BobH2, thank you for great response. Although I normally would go the open source and free route, I think on this one I am going to jump the gun and go all out. After reading your response, I am convinced that it would better suit me. I would rather spend more money and make my first 3d experience as smooth as possible. Also would rather tinker with the printer and not worry as to what slicer works. All in all you pretty much convinced me to take the plunge and I think it is going to be worth it.after watching YouTube videos I definitely like seeing the model and the preview of it doing the prints. Pretty excited for my printer haha I can barely wait!

  10. #220
    Staff Engineer printbus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tfast500 View Post
    Hello and thank you for this very detailed build thread! Will be very useful to me for my new MakersFarm prusa i3v 10" kit.
    Thanks. There certainly are other build threads. At the time of my build, person after person seemed to raise the same questions and issues regarding their printer. There only was one i3v model at the time, so all of us had the same size printer with the same display and the same electronics. The only option was with the hot end. This left it easier than it is today to understand issues and share lessons learned. The main reason I started putting together the build thread was to have a reference to point to when someone had a question on their (identical) printer. With today's range of printer sizes and options, I'm not sure I'd do it again.

    Quote Originally Posted by tfast500 View Post
    ... I am curious how much this will pertain to the newer and bigger kit. I'm not sure if there is any difference other than size?
    The degree of applicability will vary. First, note that MakerFarm has improved the detail and quality of the build guides considerably from that of the 8-inch i3v as of April 2014 when I started the thread. That alone eliminates the need for some of the detail included in my build thread. Some of the gripes we had about the i3v in 2014 (like the frustrating approach to setting Z-axis bed clearance) have been resolved through changes MakerFarm has made to the design. This eliminates the need for more of the build thread detail. To a major extent, the 8, 10, and 12 inch printers are just scaled versions of each other, so when something applies to one size printer it generally applies to the others as well. Printer differences mostly surface in the options for electronics and display. Even with those options, the printer will function the same but will need to be built/wired a bit differently.

    What reading any build thread will show you is that there likely WILL be things you'll have to figure out. There likely WILL be things about your prints that you won't understand. You likely WILL realize there's a lot more to 3D printing than you thought, and that there WILL be a lot you'll have to learn.

    ...I am debating to paint mine I'm wondering if I should mess with it I usually feel like a kid on Christmas day when I receive something new and rush to put everything together... Going to refrain from that as much as possible as this is my first printer and I'm a complete newb.
    There have been multiple discussions over these points. First, note that in the warranty, I believe MakerFarm now excludes coverage if the printer has been painted. I'd probably still paint mine and risk the warranty coverage since I prefer the painted look. Especially for the larger printers, the wood plate for the Y-bed has a history of warping problems; I have suggested a few users leave that plate unpainted in case warpage replacement is needed under warranty. The y-bed plate is mostly hidden from view anyway.

    Some prefer to rush through a build and get the printer working, perhaps backtracking to dress up the build later. I was in the other extreme that did a very drawn out build, trying to optimize things as I went. There are advantages and disadvantages to both extremes, and nothing wrong with striving for something in-between. For what it is worth, there's a lot of wiring involved in the printer. Deciding on how much time and effort you put into dressing up the wiring is a big driver in how "finished" the printer will look when you are done. Again, there have been some that just get the printer working with haphazard wiring, and then go back and clean things up later.

    ...I am curious how you like simplify3d I see you have it listed in your sig. I am debating to just get this and use it right out of the gate with this new printer...
    I only have a few points to add beyond what RobH2 already said. I transitioned through slic3r, Cura, the Repetier Host & Cura combination, and then Simplify3D. I moved away from Slic3r mainly because I grew frustrated with having to try figuring out what worked and what didn't work in each new release, often reverting back to an older version after a while. Standalone Cura provided great printing results, but I found the structure of the user interface frustrating. For the longest while, the combination of Repetier Host using Cura Engine as the integrated slicer was superb. I especially liked how I could do EVERYTHING I wanted to from within Repetier Host, with the same print quality results from Cura, in a user interface structure I found made sense. As most people do, I eventually grew to the point where I wanted more slicing control than possible with Cura. For example, I wanted to print infill as fast as I could where quality was hidden, while striving for good top/bottom solid layer quality by printing them slower. Cura doesn't (or at least didn't at the time) have speed settings that differentiated infill vs. exposed solid layers. I like the print results I get with Simplify3D, but I have to admit that I do miss a number of printer control features I grew used to in Repetier Host. Yes, I could slice in Simplify3D and print from Repetier Host, but come on...

    Do understand that the slicing process includes somewhere over 100 settings regarding your printer, your filament, and what you are trying to accomplish in a print. Whether starting from the MakerFarm suggestion of slic3r or a slicer like Simplify3D, try to find existing configuration files or setup details that will hopefully give you a chance at reasonable results on initial attempts without the frustration of learning or guessing at every one of those settings up front. Expect to to research and experiment with the settings as you work to improve your prints. With time, you'll learn which of those are set-once-and-forget vs the few that have to be tweaked nearly every print.

    Pretty excited for my printer haha I can barely wait!
    3D printing turns out to be too frustrating for some and fascinating for others. If you're expecting injection-molded print quality from a plug-and-play printer, leave the box closed when you receive it and resell it. If your degree of handiness involves only a pair of pliers and you're not sure where even those are, also leave the box closed and resell it. I was and continue to be in the other extreme. For me, it provides a fascinating combination of electronics, mechanics, materials science, microcontrollers, and firmware programming that can be hard to beat, at a fairly reasonable cost compared to what some other hobbies or interests could run.

    -------

    Welcome to the MakerFarm community, and enjoy your build. The thread traffic in the MakerFarm subforum is a fraction of what it used to be. When you get your kit, start a build thread and let us know how you're doing, posting any questions you run into there.
    Last edited by printbus; 09-27-2015 at 09:01 AM. Reason: clarity

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