Different bed adhesions question, how to get it to stick less?

[TTVert]

I have a maker select using cura w/ painters tape on the heated build and recently the builds have stuck to the point where it pulls up the tape w/ the print and I have to scrape it off the print. I usually use a .2mm first layer but also tried to thin it out to .08 to see what would happen and it didn't make a difference and the actual print quality suffered. I have my bed level w/ about a .1mm gap (Thickness of paper) and I used a dial indicator to try to get it as level as I can. I don't really have any print quality issues to speak of but I'd really rather not have to scrape the tape off my part and also replace it on the bed each time. I also tried to reduce the bed temp from 50C to 20C and it still stuck. On a smaller (1.5" square item) it isn't as bad but still pulls tape. On a larger item I'm almost afraid I'm going to break it using my scraper to pry it up even as I go slowly, pry a bit to dislodge and then move the scraper further along. Again this is something that has recently started but i also don't print very often so I cannot pinpoint any one change that could have caused this. If you guys have any input on a problem that I'm sure many would love to have I'd love to hear/try it.

Thanks much guys

Dave

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[Roberts_Clif]

From what you have stated your nozzle it too close to the hot bed, and it forcing the filament into the blue tape.
I sound like if you raise the nozzle just the tiniest amount you will be where you should be.

I print on Vinyl transfer Paper Tape that is similar to blue tape thou it comes in widths up to 4 foot. this allows me to cover the bed with one pass.
And I have experienced the models pulling the tape from the bed many many times, and the clean up is a real pain.

Though I wash in water as paper pulls off quickly when wet.

[TTVert]

Robert that is what i thought as well. I went ahead and pulled it back a hair last night (Lowered bed) and it is better, still sticks quite a bit but 100% better. i may try to lower the bed a few thousandths more to see what I get but i'm pretty happy w/ the initial later print width. I would rather have great adhesion than the alternative. Maybe when I run out of this blue tape I'll try the vinyl transfer paper. The good thing about the strips of tape is that when I nick one or when the print pulls up the tape I just have to replace a strip.

Dave

[mjf55]

My want to try green Frog Tape. That is what I use and it adheres ( the tape that is ) to the bed better than blue tape. Prints adhere to the tape fine.

[Roberts_Clif]

The good thing about the strips of tape is that when I nick one or when the print pulls up the tape I just have to replace a strip.

Dave

You know. I never once thought of that for some reason always thought to replace it all.

[curious aardvark]

pva gluestick is much much better than tape.

But printbite is streets ahead of every tape and adhesive.
And it doesn't wear out. So one sheet lasts the lifetime of the printer - might look expensive, but the decent tape isn't cheap and you never have adhesion issues again :-)

Gluestick is better than tape - but printbite is still the best print surface on the planet.

[TTVert]

That's not expensive at all. I think i may get a printbite if they are that good, sick of peeling up tape already. Is glossy any less effective than matte?

[curious aardvark]

No idea - I would think both would be equally good.

I haven't tried my new sheet yet. But have a flashforge creator that's had it for coming up for 2 years and my k200 delta.
The sheet on the delta is a lot newer and I've defintiely noticed an improvement over the original stuff on the flashforge.

I find that you need to adjust nozzle distance from plate slightly for different materials. But once you've got the settings dialled in - it just works.

I did all the other stuff: tapes, glues, abs slurry, hairspray, glass etc.
But now I wouldn't use anything but printbite. It's a one off payment that solves 90% of the hassle most people associate with 3d printing.

No more broken models, or models taking flight and richocheting around your workshop.
flexibles will stick to it cold, for everything else I heat it.
If I'm in a hurry I find a gentle tap will release it when the bed is still hot. But once the bed's cooled you just pick the print up - zero adhesion.

It's really really tough. MyMat nylon is the only thing I'd say do not use on printbite. I ended up resorting to a hammer and metal chisel to remove it. Printbite - unmarked !
In future I'd probably just make the gap between nozzle and bed larger.

It's why I'm still using pva gluestick on my klic-n-print - though with experience I'm now thinking of maybe using clips to attach a sheet. That way I still keep my options open for the very very rare occasions I need pva.

[TTVert]

Thanks. Even if it was $50 and made my life easier it is money well spent. I am very impatient and hate to wait for the bed to cool as it takes quite a whlle so I need to think about this some.

Dave