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  1. #11
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    5,713
    what electronics setup are you using ?

  2. #12
    Technologist
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    145
    Control board is a Mks Sbase, chosen purely for the reason it has software settable driver current and was the cheapest board I could find with this feature. The SD card based text file config is another bonus for making tuning and setup easier.

    The motors are the cheapest NEMA 17s I could find off aliexpress, hotend is an e3d v6 clone from the same place. No endstops because that's part of why I needed software settable driver current (the other part is no fiddling with trimpots). If I'm missing something please tell me because I forgot to order it then :P. PSU if you're wondering is one of the cheap LED PSUs off aliexpress, 120 watts which is plenty for what I'm using and could probably handle a small heated bed. My solidoodle 2 has a 100W power brick and runs a 150x150 heated bed.

    I'm not using a heated bed because I couldn't find 100mm diameter heatbeds, the smallest I found was 160/170 or so. Actually, I found one on ebay but it was ridiculously expensive and I'm pushing my budget as it is at the moment. I'm also building a CNC at the same time to mill the bed for this printer and just cause I've wanted to build one for ages for projects.

  3. #13
    Technologist
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    145
    Out of curiosity, is anyone other than me interested in building this printer? If so I'll work on tidying up the source files for release and doing a BOM and assembly instructions, if not I wont waste my time. For those curious a complete scratch build of this printer would cost about $150 USD + some plastic of your choice. This is with some "bells and whistles" like a power switch for the PSU, the Mks Sbase (not the cheapest board around) and excessive quantities (like ordering 50-100 bolts/nuts when you need like, 20-30) of some things.

    If you cannibalize an old printer this goes down to like $30. The bulk of the cost here comes from the controller board and motors, which are probably half the cost if not more. The PSU also adds a fair bit to the cost. Other than the standard components of a 3D printer (hotend, control board, motors, extruder gear, PSU) this printer only uses nuts, bolts, washers, bearings and some fishing line. All of which are the same size to boot. For the record, the cost is more or less the same regardless of the size of printer you are building. If you do need to use larger hardware, the bump in cost is absolutely minimal, and M8 hardware will be suitable for anything 'desktop' sized. The only real difference in the cost will come from the filament you're using, but you'll only need 1 or 2 rolls depending on what size you're going for. If a 100x100 cylinder printer costs me $150, I expect a 300x300 to cost less than $200.

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