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  1. #1
    Super Moderator old man emu's Avatar
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    Slicer Print Settings - What did I do wrong?

    I'm after a review of the print settings I am using for my slicer software (it's Slic3r)

    I can't upload the stl file because it is too big, however, think of it as a snub-nosed bullet with a cartridge case that tapers towards the rear. There are four helical vanes which run from the nose of the bullet to the join between the bullet and the cartridge case. (I hope that is clear).

    Here are my Print Settings:

    Print Settings (Large).jpgPlease save this file to your desktop and view it from there. It's too small to view here.
    This is the print I get:

    Printed object showing walls.jpg This is the object with support walls


    Printed object - base layer.jpg This is the base layer



    Base with layer one removed.jpg This is the base with the linear threads removed.

    My question is: Can I define settings for the printer that will stop it printing such a lot of material on the outside of the object?

    Does it really need me to specify that the slicer software creates support material?

    Old Man Emu
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Compro01; 05-07-2014 at 08:59 AM. Reason: fixing
    You may go past me,
    But you won't outlast me!

  2. #2
    Engineer
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    mark, i dont use slic3r so i cant really comment on that but this would probably print best if you did it in abs, split the model down the middle and printed the 2 halves face down then solvent weld them together. the way the model comes to a point with that point down will always require the raft to be there and its going to just be much more sloppy. also its such a small part, printing small cylinders like that tend to be a problem because the model gets too hot. each layer doesnt have a chance to cool. laying flat and maybe printing a few of these at once will come out with much cleaner results.

  3. #3
    Engineer-in-Training
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    It's impossible to read the settings in the image you attached, it's way too small.

    Regarding your problem, I think you could print that part without using supports at all but if you must I think newer versions of Slic3r (1.0.0 and up) handle them better, also there's a new option for pillar type supports that use much less material. I haven't tested any of that yet, but you may want to take a look.

  4. #4
    Super Moderator Roxy's Avatar
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    If this was me... I would put the printer through a full calibration cycle. It looks like too much filament is getting extruded
    But if you want to just cut back on the amount of filament for the outside, you can do that at: Print_Settings / Advanced / Perimeters
    I suspect even if that helps... It wont be enough to make this print OK! I think there is a bigger problem with the calibration.
    (But it isn't like I'm an expert... Every new roll of filament humbles me.)

  5. #5
    It looks very much like you're extruding too much plastic. Have you calibrated e-steps per mm?

    The best way to get tall narrow pieces to print is to print two at once. That way each layer has time enough to cool before the next is printed.

  6. #6
    Super Moderator old man emu's Avatar
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    At the moment I only want to get the shape printed to see what it will look like and to test the print settings. I'll run a calibration sequence after I've pulled the printer apart to install auto-leveling.

    The first two attempts will be to slice the model vertically and print the two halves, and another try will be to cut back on the perimeters. I'll be using the newest version of Slic3r.

    Thanks, all

    Old Man Emu
    You may go past me,
    But you won't outlast me!

  7. #7
    Engineer
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    here you go mark. i just did this quick. 1 perimeter and 30% infill just so you could see it actually printed. i split this and glued together with acetone. no support. all my slicing is done with simplify3d.

    IMG_2889.jpg
    Last edited by jimc; 05-07-2014 at 11:17 PM.

  8. #8
    Super Moderator old man emu's Avatar
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    I just got back in from the workshop to announce, SUCCESS!.

    Slicing the object down the centre and rotating it so that the cut edge lay on the print bed worked a treat. I doubled up on the objects before slicing. I was worrying during printing that the cut might not have been on a line of symmetry and the finished halves would not join to make the correct shape, but I struck lucky.

    Here are the two halves, hot from the extruder:

    2 halves hot from the extruder.jpg

    Amazingly, the object just popped off the raft.

    Object and raft.jpg

    Then I stuck the two halves together with slurry (after running them past a disc sander to flatten the flats.

    Stuck together.jpg

    I know that the object has a wood grain finish, but this is OK for this object. Can't Tell you what it is - commercial confidence, and all that.

    I've really enjoyed doing this print. I had to quickly come to terms with my CAD software, plan how the print would be done and then decide on printer settings. What a learning curve!

    Thanks to jimc for his masses of support, and thanks to lycan for asking me to do the job.

    Old Man Emu
    You may go past me,
    But you won't outlast me!

  9. #9
    Technician
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    Old man Emu & Jimc,

    Thank you both for bringing this design to fruition.

    You have both done an incredible job that would no doubt have cost me countless hours of despair and possibly a PC when we don't agree on things.

    Brilliant effort Guys

    Oh and while I am at it, thanks to Roxy whom has been helping me understand some of the code mumbo jumbo associated with these type of designs.

    Steve
    Last edited by lycan; 05-08-2014 at 11:48 PM.

  10. #10
    Technician
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    Jimc,

    Have sent you a pm regarding print settings you used for above item and how long it took to print etc etc.

    Lycan

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