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  1. #1

    ARGHHHh PETG bed adhesion problems

    Okay, so yes I have printers that can print PETG with no problems on bed adhesion (my new TEVO tornado and the Anycubic i3 Mega with the Ultrabase and the Kossel Linear plus), but I like to torture myself and make all work. Right now the problem is my Cr-10, I tried glue stick, at 80 C and still warped on two sides, cleaned the bed fully and tried, same. Then without glue and glass higher temp even worse. Finally got Magigoo today and I thought that would make it better, but nooooooooo it started perfectly fine, but 1 hour into the print, the same freaking corner starts to warp up again. This is magigoo on the glass bed of the Cr-10 at 80 C first layer temp, then 78 C for the rest. Helpppppp xD Temp for the filament is 240C first layer, than 235C the rest, with fan cooling at 80% after first 2 layers.

  2. #2
    Technician
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    In my only experience with PETG so far I had success with adhesion on glass with hairspray and no warping. But it was a relatively small part (my motorcycle turn signal mount). I think I printed it at 245C with bed temp 60C. Not sure about the fans and such, I just left that the default in the profile in S3D. But I don't recall if I used the PLA or ABS profile (S3D doesn't have a PETG profile for my printer). I used one of those and adjusted the temps. I had other issues with the part being weak and the surface being rough but I think that was because I bought a PETG filament with carbon fiber and it probably wasn't the best choice for a thin wall application.

  3. #3
    which brand of PETG were you using? I'm using Hatchbox, I've been hearing some people say both sides. Some say 80+ C for bed, some say just 50-60 C is enough, guess I'll have to waste PETG to try. Oh yeah it's fine for less than 3 hour prints, but more than that >.< Will try when I get home today.

  4. #4
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    Mine is MatterHackers carbon fiber. I decided to try that when they were out of the plain black. I have one multi-hour project I'd like to do in regular PETG, a case for my Torrent drone and batteries. I made one out of PLA and it is OK... took like 12 hours to do the main box. I'll try that sometime when I get some regular PETG and see if it survives the process.
    Last edited by raylo32; 10-03-2017 at 02:26 PM.

  5. #5
    I am getting an Anycubic Ultrabase for my Anet a8 in a few days ,I read that they work reply well.Does it work as good as they say?

  6. #6
    it'sr eally good. I'd have no trouble printing PETG on it on my i3 Mega.

    Update on my PETG on Cr-10, still not working, i've tried from 60 to 80 C bed temp, still warps even with magigoo. However here's the interesting thing I've noticed, the one on the back is perfectly fine from 60-80 C, it's the one in the middle that warps, and it's just the front corners. So I'm really confused now, is that more of a nozzle issue or something?

  7. #7
    Engineer-in-Training iDig3Dprinting's Avatar
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    Printed PEGT at 250C on 80C bed on Kapton. It is going to depend on the filament as to how well it prints. You could try something like hairspray. Also try and control the printing environment. An enclosed print space is best.

  8. #8
    Technician
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    Wow, not sure whats going on with yours. I printed this lid for my Torrent drone case last night in PETG with carbon fiber, about a 5 1/2 hour print, about 6 x 7", no issues with adhesion or warping. Printed on my Klic N Print 3D, 250/60C temps, using Makerbot ABS profile in S3D, on glass table with hairspray.... see pic below.


    Here is something that I coincidentally got in my e-mail yesterday that may help. It is a PETG how-to from MatterHackers that discusses build table materials, adhesion, temps, etc.

    http://mailchi.mp/matterhackers/f1yk...9?e=4a193f004f




    PETG lid.JPG

  9. #9
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    Think I've only ever printed pet-g on printbite, which works great :-)

    Bear in mind that pet-g bonds and warps less at the lower end of the prnting range. Unlike pla whcih works best at the upper range, pet-g is best printed as cool as you can get away with. Layer bonding will be better, and it will shrink less and stay stuck more.
    And it doesn't like being printed at any kind of speed either.

    So 50-60mm/s max and around 225-230c temp.
    Currently I have esun pet-g & colorfabb xt (also pet-g).
    Bed temp - around 70c seems to work well for me.
    Never printed any large things with it, but the small items are really strong.

    pet-g with carbon fibre will shrink less than standard pet-g as the carbon fibre has no noticeable expansion at that low a temperature (it's low for carbon).

  10. #10
    Staff Engineer Davo's Avatar
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    I print PETG / T-Glase just like ABS: 240C head, 80C bed, hairspray.

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