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  1. #1

    Learning to build a 3D printer

    So it begins... I couldn't change the title of my other thread, so thought I start a new one, if that's okay. Will be posting all printers that require assembly or possibly some scratch build? Right now working on the Hypercube Evolution, next one will be Tronxy X5S, then the RepRap Helios and Snappy V2.0 when they get released, then maybe the RepRap Simpson

    oddly enough, the angles are pretty much 90 degrees on one side, but like 89.2 on the other two sides. I don't think that should make a huge difference in print quality?

    Next up, find the correct settings for PETG for all 3 printers xD

  2. #2
    If I may be so self centered as to ask if you'd be interested in building my revision of the gus simpson? I've just finished the arms for the design and the rest should soon follow. I'm hoping to launch a crowdfunding campaign soonish for the printer to help bring it to market and finalize it.

  3. #3
    Wow i somehow missed your post again Trakyan so sorry xD. Yeah sure but probaly won't have time until winter holidays. since i'm busy with the Hypercube Evo right now (having small troubles), then the Tronxy X5S later this month/early next month, then the Wanhao D7 and another one more resin printer in December. So probably not only then, but yes I am definitely very interested.

    Meanwhile the build is going somewhat well, here's some new pics. Some small issues regarding one of the Z axis mounts, as you can see it's making the leadscrew turn in a little too much for my liking, but we'll see if it causes any problems on Z axis. Turned the part a little too hard and cracked one small side, the other side is fine and since it's PETG, hopefully it also won't cause any problems.

    Gonna post a small problem that I have with my newly arrived TEVO, it prints great, but having some wierd issues with layer shifts, I'm wondering if it's the SD card that came with the TEVO Tornado, but I don't have an octoprint to test out, think I can do it with repetier through my laptop that way? Already increased the voltage of the Y motor to 0.999 volts (it's an issue with the Tornado their Y axis motor is a bigger one but they gave it lower voltage than the other ones lol)

    Pictures galore:

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    I would suspect that the cracked z-axis support is going to cause and issue and should be replaced. Even if it doesn't, any small issue you have while testing the printer will result in 'umm, I wonder if it is caused by the z-axis support' type of thinking. I would replace it now.

    On the benchy, is it a repeatable shift ( i.e happens at the same point )? If so, I would think on close observation of the movement of the print head thru this height you could see the shift. Try a simple rectangle print and see if the issue appears.

    I would not think that it is the SD card. You could always copy the gcode back off the card and compare with the original.

    Octoprint - just installed it on my RPi and connected to my K200. Love it.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Side note, I am envious of all the printers you have. Just out of curiosity, what do you do with them all?

  6. #6
    Collector's OCD xD must collect one of every type. so cartesian (corexy, Cube shaped and Cr-10 T shaped), Delta type (Normal and inverted), Scara type (RepRap Helios), Straight Line Type (the Kappa 3d printer), and well Polar type, which I'm probably will not get because no headed bed is a big minus for me.

    on more serious note, even though I am a full time teacher, I have time (since I'm single >.>) I will probably have some of them be on 3dHubs or Makexyz, for extra income, that way I can have some printing what I need for my own business and also for others for that extra income, and also because I enjoy it.

  7. #7
    I forgot to mention, the layer shift was happening at a different point but always the same point before I reformatted, and now it happens at a different height but same thing, so yes repeatable layer shift. Here's a calibration cube I've printed out and as you can see no layer shift, but there seems to be quite a big over extrusion on the top near the height where the layer shift happened on the benchy, so I'm wondering if too much flow causing nozzle to shift. Nevertheless I've got the heatsinks for the stepper drivers and a new microsd card coming today so we shall see

    Another thing, I am not sure if it's the motor that my BOM seller gave or something, but when screwing them in, they were too long and popped the motors off. so I had to use M3 x10's instead, and even then that seemed still a little too long. However because of that I'm short on M3 x 10's, so currently using some Nylon M3 x 10's and x8's. Hopefully that won't cause an issue.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Im not a fan of nylon screws when holding down a motor ( esp when it is a step motor, produces forward and backward torque. )

    I think on the benchy it is a definite layer shift. Look at the bow section, you can see the shift to the starboard (right) side of the boat. Over extrusion would be on both sides of the hull .

  9. #9
    yeah I decided to burn my walled even more and bought this stainless steel, will be arriving tomorrow. but gonna hafta wait. hopefully I can get the carriages all installed by tomorrow, and then the wiring on Monday (thanksgiving in Canada). Yeah I think it's a layer shift, and the fact it happened on a different height after reformat sd card and cube is okay, I think it's the sd card. Again will know later today if Amazon even ships it! (says it's arriving today by 9pm but hasn't even been shipped yet :P)

  10. #10
    My version of the gus is still unfinished, and then i still need to find the cash to build and test it, so no rush. If youre ready to build before i can release jfriesen did a revision a while ago that improved on the original.

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