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  1. #61
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    I see a few folks have downloaded my KnP spool spacer over on Thingiverse. I have just uploaded a V2 design that includes some tabs to squeeze that make it much easier to remove. Not a huge deal or big change but that is one thing I found a little difficult with the original design.

    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2559323

  2. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by raylo32 View Post
    I've done it a couple of ways. I watched a youtube video and this guy said to spray a few heavy layers on and let it dry. That worked well, but I have fastened my glass to the bed and don't really want to be spraying inside the machine. So I came up with an alternate method to just spray a paper towel good and wet and apply by wiping to a preheated bed, like 60 degrees. Spray, wipe and repeat a couple of times. It dries pretty much instantly and you are ready to go. It seems to work well with most materials but best with ABS. When the bed cools the ABS part is totally unstuck. Amazing. PLA seems to stay stuck a bit even when it cools so sometimes takes some work to release.

    Edit: I don't really know how often to refresh the Aquanet or clean and reapply since I am pretty much printing on my original application after a couple dozen models.
    Thanks for that, I'll have to give it a try again.

  3. #63
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    I finished the Z=axis shim for adding a glass plate to the KnP, 3mm and 2mm sizes.

    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2563761

  4. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by raylo32 View Post
    I finished the Z=axis shim for adding a glass plate to the KnP, 3mm and 2mm sizes.

    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2563761
    raylo32, it not there (yet?) did you actually publish it ( that bit me once )

  5. #65
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    you know you can adjust up to at least 5mm z-height just by using the adjuster knobs ?
    ie: you simply don't need shims unless you're adding something really thick.

    Amazing how many people do things like that when it's not actually necessary.

    As far filament holding the best I've found is this one: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:430453
    I use it with 8mm diameter carriage bolts. I wrap some plumbers tape around the pointy end which also stops the reel sliding off.
    I've got filament spools with all sorts of different diameter holes. Everything from 10mm (flexismart 200gm roll), all taulman spools are around 12mm, on up to ones big enough to put my arm through. So the standard 30mm diameter shaft is pretty much useless.
    The long thin metal bolts work a lot better.

    On my delta I use an angled spoolholder which prevents filament tangling round the spool holder, and uses gravity to hold the spool against the machine. Would be pretty easy to make one for the replicator clone machines.

  6. #66
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    Exactly right. It's up now.

    Quote Originally Posted by mjf55 View Post
    raylo32, it not there (yet?) did you actually publish it ( that bit me once )

  7. #67
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    I do indeed know that and that's how I have my KnP operating now with a 2mm glass. But it isn't an ideal solution. I had to really crank the adjusters tight to get there and the springs are pretty much fully compressed. I don't think it would work with a 3mm piece and if so it would be very very tight... too tight... at least on mine.

    Quote Originally Posted by curious aardvark View Post
    you know you can adjust up to at least 5mm z-height just by using the adjuster knobs ?
    ie: you simply don't need shims unless you're adding something really thick.

    Amazing how many people do things like that when it's not actually necessary.

    As far filament holding the best I've found is this one: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:430453
    I use it with 8mm diameter carriage bolts. I wrap some plumbers tape around the pointy end which also stops the reel sliding off.
    I've got filament spools with all sorts of different diameter holes. Everything from 10mm (flexismart 200gm roll), all taulman spools are around 12mm, on up to ones big enough to put my arm through. So the standard 30mm diameter shaft is pretty much useless.
    The long thin metal bolts work a lot better.

    On my delta I use an angled spoolholder which prevents filament tangling round the spool holder, and uses gravity to hold the spool against the machine. Would be pretty easy to make one for the replicator clone machines.

  8. #68
    Quote Originally Posted by raylo32 View Post
    I finished the Z=axis shim for adding a glass plate to the KnP, 3mm and 2mm sizes.

    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2563761
    So, PLA will not stick to the platform as is?

  9. #69
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    I doubt it but I didn't try. The build plate has kapton tape on it and I think that is supposed to be for ABS but not sure. Pull up the user manual to see what they recommend. It does discuss this. I have only used painters tape smeared with glue stick and glass with hairspray for PLA so I just went with what works for me. Others might be able to add to this....

    http://knp3d.com/manual/UM/KNP3D-UM.pdf


    Quote Originally Posted by NCFatBoy View Post
    So, PLA will not stick to the platform as is?
    Last edited by raylo32; 10-03-2017 at 06:56 PM.

  10. #70
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    I got two sticky sheets with my knp. one had a paper type surface the other plastic. Currently I have the plastic sheet stuck to the bed and I use pva gluesticks on top of that. Works really well.

    Haven't added anything to thick to the knp - but I do have an extra 4mm on the flashforge creator and ahd no problems adjusting bed down that much just with bolts.

    You could also simply add the correct z-offset to your slicer.
    You might even be able to add it in in the firmware from the control panel. Have to admit I've never looked, but should be in there somewhere.

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