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  1. #51
    Okay then, guess I will print out the manually level knobs and make it so the bed is 90 to the towers on all 3 sides, once my PETG arrives >.>

  2. #52
    well it's not too far off, more like 89 degrees or 88 possibly.

  3. #53
    I did from the 1.1.4 version to 1.1.5. Here's the weird thing. I went back to 1.1.4 again, and did the same thing, the results seem to be better in 1.1.4 than in 1.1.5, however still not leveled, but better after G33 P7. However, I feel like the G29 I did isn't being applied, because i checked the movement of the nozzle before G29 and again after G29 with M420 S1, there is no difference. So I'm at a loss here. Tested using Bilinear haven't had time to try UBL yet.

  4. #54
    Okay so a new video came out, and it looks like I'm not the only one with this problem, it seems to be just the Linear Rails version. Here's the vid. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-e3UXj5ly3U According to him, the machines rods might not be all the same, and according to one of the comments, the reason for me getting higher points values at one point seems to be the effector tilting at certain points on the bed, causing it to suddenly go higher (which is exactly the problem I have) and therefore G29 or such isn't able to compensate for that. Am going o try EZbed, but it looks like manual knob leveling (I know I've said it multiple times, but now I'm almost 100% certain I need to go that way) really is the way to go. Any good knob leveling? I'm using the one provided by Homofaciens who did something similar on his Anycubic kossel but the pulley version.

  5. #55
    I got my Ezbed and the limit switch needed. 30 minutes of me noob trying to solder the wires xD, and then putting the bracket and the program... Wow.... It's not perfect, and I feel Like I may have found the reason why. The Bltouch bracket cause I haven't removed it yet, I found that at a certain point when the EZbed was working, the rod was slightly bumping into the mount, it wasn't enough to cause a huge sound, but I was very close to it at the time, and I noticed it, I wonder if that is the reason why that I was getting such a huge jump in the level numbers (when I was using the BLtouch).
    Nevertheless, just.... wow... I need to remove the BLtouch mount and do it again, but... less than 1 hour of work and leveling all together... I am speechless...
    It looks like the point in the bottom right of the pictures the nozzle is just slightly squishing the PLA? not too sure though, but my god at least it sticks now, more testing needed, but yes for those who are seriously having trouble leveling this, I strongly suggest Ezbed, as I've said, if you look through my post, I've spent over 40+ hours just trying to MANUAL level it and then BLtouch programming, and then this just works. Granted, I can't change the encoder settings, but by golly. Yes I'm repeating so much but I am just so happy right now (fingers crossed).

    again, are those parts where the nozzle is too close and overextrusion? can't really tell...

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/2h6vs36ggri8ak7/2017-09-22%2023.25.16.jpg?dl=0
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/59dmzsigzh...25.41.jpg?dl=0
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/6zvjzwjt46...25.34.jpg?dl=0

  6. #56
    Printed dampeners and then a benchy, will do the better fan shroud tomorrow.
    The benchy was printed at 85mm/s seem like still a little bit of overextrusion?






  7. #57
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    you're not going to get much better than that at 85mm/s
    Good job :-)
    Try it wothout the brim. You'll most likely need to slow the first layer down a bit (10% at 85 should work).
    Unless the print has a really tiny base, you should never need to use a raft or brim.

    Can't see any issues at all.

    That ezbed setup looks pretty good.
    So you buy the software and just make a z-stop sensor. Well I've already got one of those :-)

    That software setup is exactly what all deltas should ship with !
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 09-24-2017 at 06:32 AM.

  8. #58
    Yeah it's really nice, just too bad can't change certain settings, the z-stop you need the exact type or similar types. There is an actual facebook group for this Ezbed, he's currently working on a 1.1.4 version. Be warned though, certain antivirus will think it's a virus also once you buy it, you need to send him your Machine ID which the exe file it comes with will tell you, you email it to him and they give you the registration name and key within 24 hours. It does sound fishy, but over 300+ people have it and no one seems to be complaining, of course, out of safety, I installed it on my old laptop that I barely use, so if anything does happen, nothing important will be stole. It works excellent though

  9. #59
    so another problem popped up. I finally decided to do a calibration cube on my Linear Plus, and then here's what happened. Y and Z axis are okay, but the X oomph. However, I cannot get into the firmware because i"m using the EZbed system, so is there another way to fix this problem? Thanks.



  10. #60
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    The x axis is the best of the lot. 1 10th of a mm out. The other 2 are 2 & 4 10th's of a mm out.
    not bad. Try changing print temp and speed. Tolearances that small, can be down to tiny issues. Even how hard you squeeze the digital calipers.

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