Heaven help me - I've just bought a delta kit :-)

[mjf55]

yeah uds - ugly drum smoker. Good cookers.


So on the 1.0 does it actually do an auto calbration ? Or is it the same nonsense with the numbers thing, that doesn't actually work ?

Didn't you buy the auto calibration software ? or was that someone else ?

No, I did not buy any auto calibration SW.

So on the Dev 1.0 level, there are multiple fixes to the distortion correction function. The way I understand it to work (once enabled ) is you use the bed height map tool ( in repetier-host tools) and that maps the distortion on the bed. Once completed, you save it in the EEPROM with a G command ( which is not currently our firmware. Then the firmware will automatically correct for the delta z for about the first 1 mm of layer height. see https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L9URtv2LqKc

Here is the configuration utility words on it.
Capture.jpg

[curious aardvark]

riiiiiight.
Still not exactly a one button: calibrate.

You see how thick that guys build plate was !

[mjf55]

So, any update on BB?

Oh, Still no Printbite. Ordered on 11/27. Took 2 week to 'process' Still did not arrive here. Cant seem to get the tracking # from Flex3d. They are not the best at communicating.

[curious aardvark]

lol no he can take a while to answer his emails.

Been cutting threads in the uprights, yeah. when bits of aluminium get caught in the threads of the cutter it buggers up the thread. So I've got one end with a great thread and one with about 3mm that'll need a longer bolt. Need to rethink the process.

Also been doing stuff on the sling target. Switched from petg to cheapo flex pla for the brackets, then ended up modding the flashforge for flexible filament. Which worked brilliantly !

So next job is finishing the carriages and corner pieces.
I dislike this time of year. All the lights get taken down and it's still short, dark, wet, miserable days. Kind of lack motivation lol

[curious aardvark]

So back to Alexa for a post.
here's the thing.
I had a failed print !
Yeah i was shocked.

So figured probably time to level the printbed - haven't done it for 4 or 5 months.
Yep that needed doing, one at the back was way off. Now have all three bang on identical !
So that's that done for a few months :-)

And then I have a brain fart. Instead of zeroing z like I've always done in the past: Cold bed, thin paper.
I decided to do it like I do on the flashforge, with a hot bed. Also I didn't have paper to hand - I'd have had to get up, walk a couple of yards and remove a sheet from a printer and walk all the way back. So I used a sheet of thin card instead, 'cos I could reach that :-)

Aaaaaaannnd the next three prints all failed about 40% in. Are we surprised ? Yeah well we shouldn't be lol

So just re-zeroed with cold bed and thin paper. Same print now steaming along, way past where it came unstuck before.

Moral of this story: Don't change stuff that works :-)

[Roberts_Clif]

here's the thing. | I had a failed print ! | Yeah i was shocked.

Moral of this story: Don't change stuff that works :-)

Well I changed the way I was 3D Printing it could be considered that it was the right thing to do.

I have been printing on Vinyl Transfer Paper Tape for you who do not know what this is.
("It is a adhesive backed Paper used to transfer Vinyl lettering from it's adhesive backing and transfer it to it's Permanent location back lite sign, Wall, Window ect... have been printing on this for over a year now. ")

I had purchased a Build surface could have been a fake or not fake bed surface, long story short could not get two prints back to back to stick to the Bed Surface.
So I stayed with sticking the Vinyl transfer Paper Tape on top of this bed surface. Then printing on the Tape, go with what works right (well maybe).
A few weeks ago I went ahead and purchased different a bed surfaces from 2012hictech. I have been printing on this surface for over a couples of weeks now and it works, could not believe this bed surface actually worked.

Is it better than the Vinyl Transfer Paper Tape yes and no.
The Bed surface leaves no tape residue that can be washed with pure water.
Has the nozzle got to close to the surface and left marks in the Bed surface. yes!

Moral of story

We All make mistakes, And We All learn from our mistakes. If we never take a chance an try we never learn.

[curious aardvark]

An that's why I use printbite :-)
No it aint cheap - does it work ? yes.
Is it exceptionally hard wearing and extremely difficult to mark ? yes.

The sheet on the flashforge has been in constant use for over 18 months.
Still as good as the day I fitted it. Considering some of the trauma it's been through. I genuinely took a hammer and metal chisel to it to remove the mymat nylon, did not mark it in any way
It's super duper tough !

Because both the delta and flashforge beds are mounted on springs, should the head 'crash', printbite is hard enough that it won't get marked before the springs depress.
Certainly with brass nozzles. Not sure how you'd fare with a hardened steel nozzle.

Totally fixed beds just seem a bad idea to me.

[mjf55]

An that's why I use printbite :-)
No it aint cheap - does it work ? yes.
Is it exceptionally hard wearing and extremely difficult to mark ? yes.

Difficult to get, you bet, at least for me.
Ordered on 11/27. He misplaced it in the end of year rush. Finally shipped Jan 8, 2018. Sat in Heathrow for a week. Now sitting in Kennedy . Tomorrow I will file a missing package with the US Postal Service.
Next Monday I will tell Flex3Drive it never arrived and request repayment.

Not happy............

[curious aardvark]

Ah I am in the same country so that really helps.

I did see some cheap pei on amazon (or ebay) - £9 for 200x200 square. You'd have to trim it, but be interesting to see what the differences are.
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odk..._sacat=183062a

Having some bloody annoying issues at the moment.

Got a mould to print and ship.
Made lots in the past. At the moment the last 3 have had a slanted top. Sides are straight and the moulds would probably work - but I'm selling these and they need to be right.
I can see more or less what's happening. About the 1/3 mark it looks like a layer slides sideways and creates the slant. Which sort of travels up the model as it prints and results in the uneven top. The sides are perfectly straight - it's really odd.
Doesn't look like anything up with the carriages, as that would produce a different effect.

Just printed a tall cylinder and tall cube - both absolutely fine. Both taller than the moulds and no sign of any issue. So it's not something that happens at a specific height.
I've generated the stl file a few times and it previews perfectly.
Printed a some small pieces out - perfect.

Now, I do rotate the models to put the retraction point at the bottom corner where it can't effect anything.
So I'm now trying one without rotation and also no retraction during layer change.

usually I print these in a pair. and I was just getting lots of spaghetti and failed prints every time. Guess as a pair once the layer slippage occured the tops of the models were uneven and the nozzle or fan caught and knocked the back model off kilter.

Totally bizarre.
used different filaments as well - just in case.

First time since I've had the printer that I've had any kind of persistent issue.

[curious aardvark]

well that worked - also matches up perfectly with one of the other halves. I have no clue how. But they line up both ways round and the ends are flush.


I'm thinking the ghost of mc escher passed through my workshop a few days back.