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  1. #351
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    It just seems too slow, at least the printing part of it. This issue does not exist using my laptop , Windows and S3D control panel. Could be the dirver or the way the RPI is wired. We will see.

    Where did you order the wheels from, are they iver due. Hate when parts are late.

    On mosfets, I thought about that for the k200, think it's a good upgrade? You definitely need it for the BB.

    Make sure you post a picture of you in the Viking outfit.

    Looking forward to your YouTube review.

  2. #352
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    Wheels taking the slow boat from china, they'll get here when they get here :-)
    yep think the ssr on the k200 probably a good idea.

    Finished painting helmet today. Let it dry and remove masking tapd tomorrow. Also sprayed my rolled up newspaper axe handle black.

    Set a bigger axe printing a couple hours ago. 0.4mm layer height 100mm/s.
    no idea how well it'll print, using flashforge white, for first time.
    could just be a mess, could be a bigger axe head - one of the things i like is that when leaving a print to itself, you never really know what's waiting for when you go back :-)

  3. #353
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    and the result is: A bigger axe head !

    So that's one more thing alexa can do - fast printing at 0.4mm layer height and 100mm/s
    I think 60 at 0.3 was over 4 hours, 100 at 0.4 was 2 hours 20. For something 200mm tall and almost as wide as the bed - that's pretty damn fast.
    Clean print, no obvious issues with the layer height. And the flashforge white is a good solid colour, one of those white pla's where the print lines are almost non-existent. Might actually make a wooden handle for this one, think I've got some dowel in my shed. Certainly should have something in the big box of bits that should do the job.

    It's not exactly the smoothest print around, but those settings are not for intricate prints.
    Couple minutes with a file and a sanding block cleaned it up nicely.
    I'll spray it this afternoon.
    The small one is the largest I could make in the flashforge. The large one could actually go another 6 centimetres taller if I wanted.







    Helmet sits a little high, need to remove some of the centre padding. Should be able to just melt it a bit.
    The rolled up newspaper handle painted black, looks pretty good :-)

    Can I be arsed to make a shield ? nope.

  4. #354
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    CA, looks good. Go with the real rood handle, the roughen up the handle ( maybe even the blade ) to make it look well used.
    Maybe a sword also. Or a large knife. Looks like it should be fun.

  5. #355
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    Don't do swords - strictly an axe and blunt object man :-)
    The bigger axehead is abloody good size. If you're wondering why the odd shape.
    1) it saves on metal.
    2) mounted correctly it creates a hook you can use to grab opponents shield, arm or leg.

    Adtually did some sling training with the Uk vikings - largest renactor group in the uk.
    I went down to one of their missile training weekends as a sling expert :-)
    Good fun !

  6. #356
    Technologist
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    Jul 2017
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    So I am working on bed leveling some more. I am having problems with larger prints adhering to the build plate. I have completed the standard g29 with adjustment to make all three x,y,z points within 0.02 min-max. I then did the same ( really it was ok after the g29's) with G32 S2 which calculates and stores the z-plane. The next step in the process is to generate a bed height map (tools-> Bed height Map in repetier host), then generate a distortion correction map using G33 ( video shows g29, but this was replaced by g33 in firmware 92.8 ). So the generating the map went ok (except for a glitch? in the first point (still need to understand that)) but when I went to do the G33, it was unrecognized command. Apparently, the firmware for the K200 choose not to compile it in.
    Now that leaves me trying to get the exact configuration.h file used to generate the existing code loaded, so I can make a simple modification.

    I guess the point of all this is 3 fold:
    1- Do you have a contact for Wendy at reprapmall (?) so I can contact her and request this information?
    2- Do you happen to have this? I have looked on facebook -. K200 group, but not sure what the origin of the files are.
    3- Any other thoughts? how 'smooth, distortion free' is thee print bite? Ever run the bed height tool?


    My output of the bed height tool:
    Code:
       
     X:        -55.00    -27.50    0.00    27.50    55.00
    y:55.00        79.49    79.94    79.89    79.85    79.84
    y:27.50        79.79    79.81    79.76    79.71    79.73
    y:0.00        79.73    79.73    79.74    79.74    79.74
    y:-27.50    79.84    79.77    79.81    79.87    79.89
    y:-55.00    50.26    80.11    80.14    80.19    80.16

  7. #357
    Technician
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    Aug 2017
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    LOL, nice work, guys. I did one of those helmets the old fashioned way back in the 80s with cardboard and paper mache, and some red yarn for hair. Also made a wooden sword and a tunic of sorts. It has seen better days, now with a little duct tape, but still works to scare the kids when they come 'round. May need to reprise this with the 3d Printer.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #358
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    Printbite base is smooth, with a very faint dimpled pattern. You can see it but you can't feel it. And it is really flat.
    never needed to do anything but the physical - actual - bed level.
    All the topographical system does is compensate for a non-level bed. My bed is level, so no compensation needed.

    Just pm wendy, she's perfectly friendly :-)

    Raylo - pics need re-uploading. Interesting to see your viking helmet.

    ***

    Ah ha pic showing up now.
    lol that's more of a minotaur hat than viking - love it.
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 10-11-2017 at 06:32 AM.

  9. #359
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    Metal motor brackets arrived today, still waiting on wheels. But I think I've now got all the bits to do the belt setup and finish the cornerpiece design with sprocket (?) holder added and some more bolt holes.

    Oh yeah had a company call me this morning who want my old dead crap - uh, used computers.
    So with luck that'll clear a fair bit of space in my workshop. Particualrly as most of the old dead base units are being used as 'shelves' for more crap, which I will be forced to throw away to get at the base units.

    The stack of dead laptops is up to about 3 feet tall, the dead harddrives are probably in triple figures and I have - literally - no clue how many dead base units there are, 'cos they're covered in piles of junk everywhere you look.

    I've got to send some pics of the crap, hopefully that won't scare these guys off.
    Local council tip won't take dead pc's from professionals, won't tell me where to dump them and the only other people who've contacted me wanted paying to take it away. This morning's call said they'd do it for free.
    Not sure how much recoverable gold and and the like there is in these things - but if they help clear my workshop, then they are more than welcome to it :-)
    Hell I'll even throw in some dead motherboards and whatever new parts are no longer useable.
    I did have a stack of isa network cards at one point, no clue if I've still got them or not.

    So fingers crossed :-)
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 10-12-2017 at 07:27 AM.

  10. #360
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    0.4mm layer height. My new favourite layer height :-)
    Runs nicely at 210c and 100mm/s, ideal for my 0.5mm nozzle.
    Makes big things fast and as long as there's no complex over or underhangs - looks pretty good.
    Currently using it for my clay glande moulds.
    78 cubic cm in under 3 hours. Dimensions are bang on too :-)

    The interesting thing about these moulds is that the two halves slice completely differently.
    The tongue half is always super smooth on the inside, while the groove always has issues - if you print them seperately.
    If I print both together, both are equally smooth, and no stringing either.


    The numbers refer to the length and diameter of clay cling bullet they make. The 70x46 could probably be used for hunting elephants. It's a big glande.
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 10-13-2017 at 11:26 AM.

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