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  1. #341
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    Quote Originally Posted by curious aardvark View Post
    so what does octoprint actually do ?
    It allows remote control (network) of your printer. Alot like the S3D control panel while on USB; you can upload and print, store file on sd card or server, temperature graphs and setpoints, manual control like ponterface, terminal access ( i.e. send gcode commands to printer ), print status, webcam support to watch print.

    It's pretty kool. If you like, I can provide screen shots while in action. Here is there site. Spend a few minutes http://octoprint.org/

  2. #342
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    Did I mention that the ABS prints are a #$@! to pull off the green tape. Hot bed, cold bed, does not matter. wind up cutting / ripping, unsticking , all of the above , the tape. Time to seriously consider printbite. About 45 usd delivered. Probably going to do that.

  3. #343
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    try pva stick glue - think I used abs with it. works well for pla.
    Gave up on tape quite early on, was always leaving blue marks on prints.

    so octoprint is just software ?
    I had the impression it was a box you plugged into the printer.

    And would it work with a raspberry pi b ? Got one I've never found a use for.
    Though I don't think it's wireless. But I do have some tiny usb wifi dongles around
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 10-07-2017 at 09:28 AM.

  4. #344
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    Quote Originally Posted by curious aardvark View Post
    try pva stick glue - think I used abs with it. works well for pla.
    Gave up on tape quite early on, was always leaving blue marks on prints.

    so octoprint is just software ?
    I had the impression it was a box you plugged into the printer.

    And would it work with a raspberry pi b ? Got one I've never found a use for.
    Though I don't think it's wireless. But I do have some tiny usb wifi dongles around
    I'll look for the pva glue stick. Never had issues with bits of tape sticking to the part. But I use the green frog tape, sticks to the bed better, at least until ABS
    Yes Octoprint is just open source software. It will run on Raspberry Pi A, B, A+, B+, B2, 3, Zero and Zero W..
    here is a straight download image for Octopi, https://octopi.octoprint.org/
    Astroprint, an earlier fork of octoprint, customized for user friendliness, and they offer a hardware / software solution.

  5. #345
    I would strongly suggest octopi over Astroprint. Don't get me wrong, Astroprint works and is easier to set up than Octopi, but in my opinion, Astroprint is like Apple, in the sense that it's easy to setup and it just works, while Octoprint is sorta like Android? Not the best comparison, but Octoprint will allow you to do so much more than Astroprint, like right now I have both, but I am liking octo more because of filament sensor, which astroprint can't do. However, I believe Autowiz has a Repetier Server? I want to try that because having one octopi for each printer (4 raspberry pis already) is fine but money consuming, and I want to try using just one Raspberry pi 3 model B to control both my TEVO tornado and upcoming Hypercube EVO, but I can't quite find the instructions to do so (sorry if I've sorta off-topic this, think I'll post this in my own thread). But yeah that's my take on Octoprint vs Astroprint. Astro to start off, but Octoprint in the long run.

  6. #346
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    Quote Originally Posted by iamthebest22 View Post
    .... but in my opinion, Astroprint is like Apple, in the sense that it's easy to setup and it just works, while Octoprint is sorta like Android
    Oh, no Apple-Android war? ;-)

    Just kidding, I like Octoprint. With the current guides, easy to set up. For RPi, there is even OCTOPI, a complete image for the pi. I like control over things. I also like opensource ( one reason i dont like M$, Apple )

  7. #347
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    if it's like apple - I'll steer well clear. the computers suck, the tablets suck and the phones break all the time - and suck ;-)

    I will have a look at octopi cheers.

    Currently trying to get softshaper to work.
    got a clean machine, clean windows 7 64bit install, ran all the updates. Installs okay.
    Just crashes when you try and use it lol

    Shame, as when it works, it looks like it could be a real challenge to simplify3d - but obviously not, if you can't use it :-)

    I'm even contemplating sticking windows 10 on to see if that helps (has to be a first time for everything).

  8. #348
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    Quote Originally Posted by curious aardvark View Post
    if it's like apple - I'll steer well clear. the computers suck, the tablets suck and the phones break all the time - and suck ;-)

    I will have a look at octopi cheers.

    Currently trying to get softshaper to work.
    got a clean machine, clean windows 7 64bit install, ran all the updates. Installs okay.
    Just crashes when you try and use it lol

    Shame, as when it works, it looks like it could be a real challenge to simplify3d - but obviously not, if you can't use it :-)

    I'm even contemplating sticking windows 10 on to see if that helps (has to be a first time for everything).
    It is only beta. If it was MS, that would be a released product ;-)

    Note on octiprint, noticed slow prints (at least I think so) wheen uploading gcode to server and then print. alternative is to upload to sdcard and print. I will do a comparison and report back.

  9. #349
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    Trying an octiprint speed test. The model is the Tyrannosaurus Chip clip from thingiverse. S3D said it would be a 14 minute print ( 100mm/s print speed in settings, looks like this model tops out at about 80 mm/s (per S3D)
    Upload to Octiprint server took seconds (1.6 mb file) BUT upload to the SD card took a wopping 11 minutes. WOW. I knew it would be slow, but this is crazy.
    Did SD card first. Took 14m, 11 secs from start to finish
    Doing std Octiprint -> USB print now.
    To Be Continued............

    Completed the Pi-> USB print, 24m, 55 seconds. WOW. While I noticed a slight amount of pausing while printing, not enough to account for an additions 10m40s. The print is only 37 layers. 640s/37 = OVER 17 seconds a layer longer. No wonder my 500 layer print last night took forever.

    I know a USB cable can cause this. But I never noticed this using the same USB cable on S3D control panel or Repetier Host software.

    UMMM I got to get to the bottom of this.
    Last edited by mjf55; 10-08-2017 at 11:21 AM.

  10. #350
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    uploading to sd cards is always slower than reading from them. Plus tThat sounds like you're transferring at the serial connection baudrate - which will be very slow.
    Thing to remember, is that although you have a usb cable the actual communication to the printer is via a simulated old fashioned serial connection.
    Why cnc and the like still use serial transfer - I have no idea, but unfortunately they still do.
    Hopefuly my touch screen and it's wifi module will operate at more modern speeds. It's only the connection from the screen to the motherboard that should still run at serial baudrates.
    So I should be able to upload wirelessly to the sd card at a decent speed.

    Just ordered a couple of mosfets (cheers autowhiz) for offloading the heated buildplate power draw from the board.
    Bought an expensive one for 7.60 and a cheap one for 3.60. Ostensibly the exact same thing.
    Figure I can use the cheap one for alexa, as it's obvious the motherboard just can't handle the load transfer when the beds over about 80c and the extruder is over 240c.

    Apparently the bb will be drawing around 27 amps - my electrician mate is impresseed lol
    My psu is rated for 50 :-)

    No sign of the wheels yet. once I've got those I can do the carriages and start on the shafts. Once I know how far apart the shafts are, I can make the effector. At which point things ought to start speeding up.
    If I get a quiet day next week, I'll go get the buildplate and bottom plate made. Done a fair bit of remote support for them recently :-)
    Just not sure if I need 10mm or 15mm spare at the edge. Thinking 5mm aluminium with 5mm blots for the springs. That only leaves 2.5 mm at the edge if I have 10mm rim.
    I'll ask darren, they'll have a much better idea of necessary tolearances than I do.

    Also promised wendy a k200 review on youtube.
    Almost finished the viking helmet - padded the interior, taped the horns and bits staying brown and spray painted the 'metal' bits chrome wheel silver. Also painted my axe head silver - nordic themed meal at the restaurant of our local tech college next month, all I need now is a dead sheep to throw across my shoulders :-) And maybe another axe lol
    Keep meaning to make a larger one on alexa.

    Got a mate who does renacments, he's austrian and about the size of a mountain. He's got a huge fleece that would fit the bill. But a long way to go to borrow it lol
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 10-08-2017 at 11:39 AM.

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