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  1. #321
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    Good luck with the stl. I probably made the sphere too large. Not syre it's actually printable when resuzed to 25mm.
    Ah you're using cura.

    haven't looked at the latest release, but don't like the layout.
    Got a beta copy of vshaper to try. Impressed with the demo i got at the tct.
    Although not entirely sure it'll run on my 32bit windows 7
    horrible feeling i might have to stick 64 bit windows on for it to run.

    Interesting to see how you get on with the he3d fan duct, looks like it will catch the belts to me. But haven't bithered to actually print it. I do have some turbo fans.

  2. #322
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    Yeah, the stl didn't survive the printing. It got extremely thin in the center, not fully adhered at the very center and that let it start to wobble at the top, then at about 95% complete, extruded in mid air. It was fun trying. Perhaps at full size, the verticals would hold.

    I am using windows 10 64bit, and it is ok. Worst part is that it updates when you dont want it to. It's as good as W7, in my opinion. But I do prefer Linux to all this windoz stuff, but its hard to find all the tools, and I need excel w/ vba.. oh well.

    I get the turbos Saturday. Will let you know how it works out.

    Keep the BB bulid updates coming. I am very interested in them.

    EDIT: I created what I think is a better Hotbed Mount Bracket. I know you are thinking about a more robust one that connects to both sides of the corner bracket. If you think it worthwhile, feel free to add it to your modification collection .
    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2558378

    EDIT2: what do you use to control the printer after slicing in S3D? Directly from S3d, Repetier host / Server, Pronterface?

    One last thing, when you say your printing at 100mm/s, what speed is that referring to: Overall, infill wall?
    Last edited by mjf55; 09-29-2017 at 10:54 AM.

  3. #323
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    S3d has all that stuff built in. So tend to use the printer control panel for that kind of stuff.
    sppedwise i'm talking about overall maximum speed. I leave everything else to s3d. Never changed any of the default slow down speeds.
    My mantra: if it's not broke, don't try and fix it :-)

    You can switch off the updates in windows 10.
    Right click start button, go to control panel, view large icons. Go to administrative, cluck services. Go down to windows update, right click, select properties, disable on startup and shutdown.

    And no it's not a patch on 7 :-)

    Mount wise i intend to use the metal struts Not the corner pieces. Fix the mount with 2 bolts and strutnuts - so they cannot move, and attach the springbolts to those.
    Currently trying to decide how to mohnt a 350mm by 5mm (probably) bed.
    will 3 5mm bolts and springd be enough. Or should i go for a 6 point mounting system. Weight wise it'll probably never have to suppirt more than a couple of kgs and the springs i have are pretty heavy duty. But when you look at the heatpad and printbite, it's going to be a seriouschunk of aluminium.
    My bolts and springs are much shorter than the k200. all my electronics are roof mounted, the the springs are simply for physical bed levelling. They will be screwed up pretty tight.

    Can't see how your bracket helps. The only real problem is stopping the bracket moving. If it's still only attached at one point and not locked into place, how is it an improvement ?
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 09-30-2017 at 08:30 AM.

  4. #324
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    Thanks for the W10 thing. I'll check it out. As far as my versions of the bracket, I am not sure it actually helps, but I like the fact that the spring is captured, at least on the bottom. This printer so far is a journey, so if a newer better bracket comes along, I go with it, ( at least it (the printer) reaches the level of perfection your Alexa reached. Then, like you , I will be hesitant to modify it. Again, if it ain't broke, dont mess with it )

    My fans came in today, so I installed these part ducts (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2479638 ) and I did not like them. As you said, they interfere with the x and y belts, and they also don't point correctly. They point directly on the heater duct not the nozzle. Interesting experiment. I went back to your solution. I do think that your solution would be better with one of those turbo fans. Any desire to modify yours or release the design file. You design in openscad, correct?

    Many pages ago you mentioned that the cooling fans were always on and asked if there was a way to turn them off. did you ever find that out?

    It is weird re-reading this thread with so many posts gone.

    On your BB, thats some chunk of aluminum bed. Do you know how you will heat that?
    3 vs 6 mounting points, If you use 6, how to you level that. You have 3 point down pat.

    Any pictures of the BB?


    EDIT: I tried S3D at 60mm/s , 200/60 , 0.2mm on 0.4mm nozzle printing a benchy ( I know, but i like them and have enough to compare ). WOW. Near perfect. I can even read the printing on the stern. Only slight issue was incomplete filling of top layer on smoke stack.

    I think I am a convert to S3D. Damn, its windowz based. ;-(

    I do have stringy output from the extruder while it is heating up so the skirt has a trail of string while printing and can get caught anywhere. How do you combat that? retract at end of prior print and then prime on the start Gcode?

    I think I'll try that next print.

    Also time to get off of PLA any try PET-G
    Last edited by mjf55; 10-01-2017 at 12:40 AM.

  5. #325
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    you pick the oozed filament away from the nozzle when it starts going down towards the bed.

    And yep 50/60 at 200 does give amazing prints. That's what i did the iris boxes on. And as far as I can see most people have to seperate the middle leaves with a knife - I didn't :-)

    wondered why I'd lost 3 pages of this thread, so john deleted all his comments ?
    That's some level of paranoia.

    bb wise, with the three printers on the other workbench I'm down to one and got a couple systems to build for next week.
    So we'll be at this stage for a while yet:


    I think the only thing left to buy are the carbon fibre shafts. Now I know I'm putting the magnets on the ends - getting the exact size isn't quits as important.
    Also the plastic motor mounts are temporary, got metal ones in the post. For around 1.50 each, seemed worth the investment.

    Yep openscad.
    drop me a pm with your email address and i'll send the duct file over.
    I'll probably be using the turbo fans on the bb - so need a decent mount for them - havem't plugged one in yet to see what the airflow is like.
    Was thinking of seeing if I can adapt for current mounting.
    With the k200 you just can't extend beyond the edge of the effector. Just looking at the he3d design, you can see it'll cause issues for larger prints. And I've done a few prints that come right to the edge of the printbite.
    The shafts are pretty much staright down at that point.

    Might be able to mount the turbofan transversely across the effector.
    Might have a play this afternoon.

    One of the things I like about he3d k200. It'll print superb quality prints at lower speeds and knock out large 'rough' prints at high speeds.
    Alexa's not quite perfect yet - I really should have a look at simplify3d's speed settings for different print areas. Having them the same as the settings for the flashforge doesn't actually make much sense.

    softshaper seemed to install okay yesterday, but not had chance to see if it will run yet. Got interrupted :-)
    As far as I can see the only 64bit aspect was the c++2015 they used, but I already had the 32 bit installed, so might work :-)

  6. #326
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    Man, BB is huge, it dwarfs the power supply. Cant wait to see it in operation.
    How are you figuring the length of the rods? Scaling Alexa or using some calculations? I happen to find Jay Couture's youtube on calibrating a delta, but he also ( at the very beginning ) shows his visual calculator for delta designs. Looks interesting. Just wondering if you saw it.

    Oh, PM sent.

  7. #327
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    there's an actual calculator ?
    Oh yeah that will be useful :-)

    I tend not to spend much time youtubing these days.
    I was going to use a combination of scaling up the k200 settings and measuring stuff.
    Basically the shafts plus the carriage attachments, plus the offset from the effector - which I think I can make a decent size, given the gaps between the corner pieces and the bed itself - are equal to the diameter of the bed - plus whatever adjustments you have to make for the distance of the struts from the edge of the bed.

    I still have no clue how you tell the motherboard what all these measurements actually are.
    Also thinking about changing to an mks sbase so i can use smoothieware (and 'borrow' the tevo little monster firmware). Also having 32bit arm. processors on both the screen and board seems like a better idea.
    It's a few more quid, but think I'll still be below 400.

    This will give you a better idea of the size of the printbed - my 350mm printbite with custom graphic. The yellow goes away when you peel off the adhesive backing - not making a loser sign with my right hand - holding the camera lol:
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #328
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    Nice graphic. Thats a big plate. 350mm = 247mm max square build ( is that right?) Nice. So for the calculator, cant tell if you are joking, but here is the link to the youtube -> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uDB4hE6nyYI&t=575s and his openscad visual calculator link -> https://github.com/Jaydmdigital/mk_visual_calc

    Seems useful.

    was going to ask a question, but I just forgot. Memory is the second thing to go....................

  9. #329
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    not joking about that :-)
    Don't watch much youtube.
    the internet connection on the work machine in the workshop is dodgy. Not the wireless adaptor or router. something in the windows networking morass. tried a few different adaptors, no change also no difference after all the updates.
    If only I knew a computer expert .... lol

    weird thing about the mks sbase boards. I can get a board for about 41. OR a board and lcd screen for 46.
    having a spare screen seems like a good idea. So I'll probably go for that option.

  10. #330
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    Can't edit a post in my phone. So I looked at the board a little and seems like it will work , 32 bits and all, quite an improvement. Looks like you use the latest smoothieware. Single config file makes it easier and then firmware updated in power cycle. Very Kool.

    Speaking of boards, do you have any documentation in the k200 board. Can't seem to find anything except an mechanical outline

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