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  1. #301
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    have you got the heated bed ?

  2. #302
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    Quote Originally Posted by curious aardvark View Post
    have you got the heated bed ?
    Yes I do. (why do you ask? (I needed at least 10 characters))

  3. #303
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    How did you guys get the springs to say on the rods. The semi-open ended side ( 90* to the coil ) just pops off. Whats the magic.
    Other than that I think I am ready. Did a dry ( filament-less) print and it went fine. Sings a funny song ;-(

  4. #304
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    I bent the ends and locked in place with small cable ties.
    Didn't have an issue with them coming off.

    If you have the heated bed then you don't need to mess about with topographical mapping (it's NOT levelling)
    Just keep doing the g29 and adjust the three levelling screws until the three numbers are within a few 100ths of a mm.

    Then use the control panel to zero z - and that's the entire levelling process. Plus it actually physically levels the bed, the weird way maps the surface.

    Yep they do make a pleasant noise.

  5. #305
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    Oh and when you're printing a test holder for cupped magnets and it's a great super tight fit first go - make sure you can get the bloody thing out again ;-)
    Currently dismantling the holder with a knife. MKII with hole in the base to push the magnet out, is printing lol

    had to melt the bugger out. Second one works perfectly, pushes out easily.

    Just need wheels and threaded ball bearings and I can start on the shafts and carriages.
    Dab of glue and those suckers are never coming out :-)

  6. #306
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    How do you load the filament? I know to push it into the bowden and down to hot end as far as it will go, but what about the rest of the way, so that the start of the print will not be missing any material? Is there some special g commands or simple g1 Exx?

    Trying a small test print now.

  7. #307
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    Follow wendy On Twitter Add wendy on Facebook Add wendy on Google+
    Quote Originally Posted by mjf55 View Post
    Thanks for the picture. Thats how I built it.
    Well, got the mechanical completed. Will start mounting the electronics. I think it is right.
    What is the proper amount of bet tension, or should i not worry about it when I put in the belt tension springs?
    EDIT: I just read in the facebook group that the arms are different and should be paired? Is that true, I did not check mine. Should I take them back off and check? Thanks
    Attachment 11067


    Please reverse the fan , the fan lable should be inside

  8. #308
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    If you have thd filamdnt path correct if pushes through all the way to the nozzle. If it won't push thst far, you need to check why.

  9. #309
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    So got the latest tct magazine this morning. Mono price talking about a mini delta - news to me. Apparently launched back in may.

    It's tiny ! 110mmx120.
    Very compact and tidy. And it's got me thinking. How much of a tiny portable delta could you 3d print ?

    I reckon, pretty much everything bar: psu, board, motors, rods, z stops, extruder and linear bearings.
    arguably if you used wheeled carriages, you could even print the wheels.

    The frame could be printed in 2 pieces (frame and top).
    Nema 14s or similiar small motors should be fine.
    you could even print an unheated bed. Useblue tape which is pretty sticky cold. I reckon under £100.

    Can't find anyone selling the mp mini delta. But apparently it's well under $200.
    Got me thinking anyway :-)

  10. #310
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    Hi Wendy, I did notice that I already reversed it. Thanks.

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