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  1. #191
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    what motherboard baseplate ?

    Those tubes should only take about 10 minutes.

    maybe you have it set to print so low that it can't and starts over at the top?
    I've had it set lower. just depends how tight I calibrate z=0.

    I'll have a play later.

  2. #192
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    ah didn't know you'd made a baseplate.

    Okay, I'll do a dry run when I go back in the workshop.

  3. #193
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    So the first of my mystery parcels arrived today.
    It's a colour touchscreen control panel thing: mks tft32_l v2.0

    Now thing about buying cheap electrickery from china via ebay, is that you don't get any instructions for anything - ever.
    And in this case only one of the two cables needed.
    It's from Makerbase, who aparently are MKS - until seeing the two things together on the back of the screen I did not know they were the same company.
    As I've ordered a mks motherboard, that's probably a good thing :-)

    I'm going to plug it into Alexa later and see what happens. Now just need to find somewhere to get these little 8pin plugs. They look suspiciously like old school serial connectors, so might be something I can use in the workshop somewhere.

    ***

    Well that didn't work. He3d use 10 pin connectors for the control panel and the mks touch screen uses 8 pin connectors. You cannot plug a 10 pin connector into an 8 pin socket - without using a hammer.
    Just have to wait for the mks board to arrive.
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 08-07-2017 at 08:25 AM.

  4. #194
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    She's working normally again today. weird.
    Those cylinder things.
    can do both in 34 minutes if I drop the speed down to 75mm/s and layer height 0.32.

    Little one by itself at 0.16 and 75 would be 23 minutes.
    big one is an hour.
    Or do both together in 1 hour and 5 minutes.

    It's because of the individual layer speed and the time s3d allows for cooling. you can adjust those settings in the Cooling tab on the right.
    I've currently got it set to allow speed reductions down to 20 %.
    If I change that to 50% the one prints in 23 minutes at 75mm/s and 0.16 layer height.

    Adjust that upwards until you've got the best quality versus speed setting.

    Still not decided how to do the hotplate yet lol

    Just bought 10 metres of gt2 belt for 6.69 and some dual purpose drive pulleys and idle pulleys. They were 1 each, threw in some belt tensioners, 20p each
    And some 0.5mm brass nozzles for the e3d jhead. and some compression springs, for extruder and bed mounting.

    It's just the big stuff and shafts left I think.
    Going to be a month or 2 before it all arrives anyway.
    up to 109 - still need wheels & shafts, psu and heatpad. Although the psu depends on what heatpad setup I decide on - if I ever decide on one that is :-)
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 08-07-2017 at 12:22 PM.

  5. #195
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    Currently printing a wall tile holder that is just shy of 200mm wide and 190 tall. So too big to do on the rep clones and on the edge of what alexa can do.

    I need a big printer :-)

  6. #196
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    Nothing. whatever was going on the other night - isn't going on today. weird.
    Should probably have named her after My dog rather than my niece. Phoebe is a lot more stable ;-)

    Wide load coming through:

  7. #197
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    Just need to print the end piece and it's done.

    Glue drying :-)
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 08-08-2017 at 11:44 AM.

  8. #198
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    Oh yeah I have found a filament she just can't use.
    polymaker's polyplus pla. It's roughened, presumably to give better purchase for extruders. But the downside of that is that it just generates an awful lot of friction in a tight bowden tube. To the extent, that it just will not print. Shame as the stuff I have is a translucent light orange and would have been perfect for the tile holder. Tried a couple times, but just would not work.

    It's expensive stuff too - so bear in mind if looking for quality filament. polymaker polyplus pla does not play well with bowden printers.
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 08-08-2017 at 12:32 PM.

  9. #199
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    mks gen1.5 motherboard arrived today. Short usb cable and what do you know - they included two 10 pin control panel cables.
    So apparently the screens they make are not compatible with the motherboards they make, that they claim the screens will work with.
    Bum ! :-(

    And no sign of any 'manual'. I start to wonder if the chinese actually have a word for 'instruction manual' in their language.

    Have to look at the makerbase website.

    The board itself has the stepper motor drivers on the circuit board. Just add heatsinks.
    Looks good, compact - lots of connectors for who knows what (back to the manual issue lol).
    Just pissed off that the screen they make won't plug into the board they make despite claiming it would.

  10. #200
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    doesn't matter if it does. The sdcard socket is 10 pin - 8 pin on the screen.
    The board has 3 10 pin sockets: Aux 1 and Aux 2 - also has a 10 pin for wifi module
    Aux 2 is the sdcard connector. So any way you look at it yu need 10 pin connectors on the screen which is also the card reader.
    As far as I can see All the mks gen boards have 10 pin sockets. So why do they make a screen with 8 pin connectors ?
    MKS-TFT32 is a colorful touch screen LCD, it is suitable for many main board, such as MKS BASE, MKS GEN, MKS SBASE, etc.
    I'll go get the board - so you thnk the 1 8pin cable might do it all ?

    You're right - got an 8 pin connector labelled Aux 1.
    So why do I also have another 8 pin connector on the screen labelled 'sd' ?
    Unless that's for an external card reader. A standard usb header would probably fit in there.

    Forget a manual a sheet with simple labels for what each socket was for would do.
    The people who make the boards must know - so why not let other people know as well :-)
    The git thing I was looking at this morning recommed smoothieware for the firmware.
    That lets you continue an interrupted print I believe.
    Though quite what you do about the rock hard blob that forms where the extruder stops mid print - I don't know :-)

    Cheers - mate, got faith the screen might work again :-)

    Plus been to jsk to sort johns emails out after bt buggered them up - so getting my custom aluminium parts made not going to be a problem.

    There's even a utility that converts stl files into dwg so you can access them in autocad. Which makes life easier.
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 08-09-2017 at 11:29 AM.

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