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  1. #161
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    I'll have a look - but the wire wasn't an issue when i was printing the viking helmet - thought it might be, but nope. The cable tie lift I'm using seems to do the trick.

    Curious to see this thing as the drawing made no sense to me :-)

    ***

    it's huge !
    you don't do delicate do you ? ;-)
    Can't see how it would fit with the fan duct though.

  2. #162
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    My wire doesn't come out of the y strut.
    That the best picture you got ? That could be almost anything, anything at all
    Definitely MIB - lmao

    Ah ! does it attach to the side strut and point up ?
    I can see the value of that. make it a bit smaller and out of stiff black rubber - of which I have an abundance, and we've got something. Black polyflex would also work.
    But I haven't tried the rubber on alexa yet :-)

    Also not sure if the acorns are better coloured or au natural:


    originally I was going to copper coat real acorns for selling as badges. After a number of attempts, came to the conclusion that it would be easier designing and printing an acorn instead.
    This wood filament is good stuff, they genuinely look and feel like wood. If I sanded the shine off the back, nobody would know any different - or have the slightest idea how they were made :-)
    Oh and it'll stick to cold bed as well :-)
    Weirdly the first layer goes down better at 15% than 7%. Still printing at 100mm/s.
    I'll try one at .16 and see if it's any difference to the standard 0.2.

    Sort out some packaging and should make some money from these. The original model is full acorn, earrings maybe :-)

    Now where did I put that copper filament ?
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 07-24-2017 at 02:17 PM.

  3. #163
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    You have to remember all three of my struts are in use.
    The right one (y?) has my filament and webcam holders
    Left has extruder and my psu is mounted on the back of the z ? one.

    So the cable bundle is just pushed into the left side top horizontal strut - I like your idea, needs refinement and possibly the addition of bolt free clipping and flexible filament :-)
    Well why stop now lol

    And how do you change filament on the balloon ?
    Not something I've ever done.

    And when you sand the shine off the back and smooth the edges - I'd defy almost anyone to know it wasn't made from wood :-)
    Which means I can sell them for more money :-)
    Helps that i live in the heart of the new english national forest for the blurb: ' Custom Made and Hand Finished in the Heart of the National Forest with Wood.'
    And not a word of that is a lie :-)
    Print up a little Curious Aardvark Designs, leaflet find some little cheap boxes and I reckon these could go for up to £10 a pop.

    Now where the hell did that copper filament go ?
    'cos: 'made in the heart of the national forest with real copper' - also sounds pretty expensive ;-)

    ***
    Damn ! you're right about the .16 layer height. Only take a few minutes longer and wow - huge improvement over 0.2.
    That one looks even more like wood than the others !
    Get sequential printing working and we're in production !

    I owe you a beer - look at this sucker:


    lol if you didn't know you would swear that was carved from actual wood. Get some light varnish and you'd never tell the difference.
    Might even see what it looks like with a dab of walnut oil.

    Now logically if .16 is better than 0.1 or at least as good, then 0.32, should be better than 0.3 !
    Let's try that.
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 07-24-2017 at 03:42 PM.

  4. #164
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    huh, just like that :-)


    The .32 is a little worse than the 0.2 So
    we'll stick with 0.16 - found the copper filament - both samples :-)
    this should be good :-)
    And also prints on a cold bed.

    Umm, but probably better with heated bed lol
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 07-24-2017 at 04:17 PM.

  5. #165
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    Third wire on the laser socket lets you change the power.

    So don't need that.
    So should still work with just the on/off setting and wires.
    right enough for today.

  6. #166
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    lol yeah the base plate I did was real scary at the end.
    Balloonj look fantastic - is it part of a 'scene' or you just like balloons ?

  7. #167
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    inside the balloons :-)

  8. #168
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    Excellent !

  9. #169
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    Already done :-)
    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2386628

    Currently printing the cable snake out of black flexismart. It's basically rubber tpu.
    When printing with super flexible rubber filaments up your extrusion rate to around 120-130 % and print real slow 10-15mm/s
    One of the features of flexismart is that it sticks to printbite like a limpet on steroids. So I can run the first layer at 100% speed and not need the nozzle that close to the printbed - and also don't need to heat the printbed.
    That pretty much goes for all tpus.


    Only just fits on the printbed, if the bit that bolts to the strut wasn't angled to keep it away from the hotbed, I'd have to do it on the klic-n-print.
    flexismart is the cheapest rubber filament by quite a long way. Thats aid it's also the least stretchy and the weakest. It's probably the closest to tire rubber in surface feel, stiffer than ninjaflex and filaflex.

    Useful for all sorts of things :-)
    Don't think it's available in the us yet. But polyflex is cheaper over there, so it evens out.

  10. #170
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    hanging spool below extruder is awkward as you've got to move the the wrapped extruders wires - well wrapped mine :-)
    Plus where my printer sits it just wouldn't fit.

    As long as the cables aren't in the way - can't see why not though.

    bendy cable snake looking quite good, Interesting to see how well it builds out the angled square. Probably shouldn't have gone for 0.3mm layer height.
    Probably should have added extra process just for that part.
    But I'm always in a hurry lol
    Ah well we'll see.
    You can't see the grooves that well in the picture, but they run along both sides and the top - hopefully it'll articulate at those points.

    I've got a 50cm 3mm aluminium disc that's used in my portable balearic slinging target.
    Sized a 350 (actually 370 as you need screw holes to mount it) disc against that.
    Holy crap it's big ! lol

    With a 350mm build plate you can actually fit a 100mm x 340 rectangle Or a 245x245 cube.
    That should be big enough, Figure I'll need some kind of run out of filament alarm thing as well
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 07-27-2017 at 11:57 AM.

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