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  1. #151
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    lol
    bottoms up !

    magnet wise I've got quite a few.
    Duct wise, yep a bit more width and depth wouldn't hurt the airflow :-)
    No clue if the turbo nozzles work or not. definitely no air coming out the holes, but even a small bit of tissue doesn't stick, which you assume it would if there were a vacumn being generated.

    As far as hot glue guns go - I'm not a big fan. Rather use epoxy putty or uhu all purpose glue. Particularly for something as smooth as a ball bearing.
    For the arms I'd probably go with the uhu glue. the magnet would hold the ball tight to the tube while the glue set, which is pretty quick.
    Dunno what solvent they use but it even eats pet-g :-)

    Dogs back - gotta go wield a towel :-)

  2. #152
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    what are you printing on ?
    350mm printbite runs at around £40.
    Your print surface seems to work just as well, presume it was cheap :-)

  3. #153
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    well the round parts, don't actually need to be round.

    Make the round parts square and move the bar back, then lay it on it's back to print.
    The other approach is the flatten the bottoms of the round parts slightly, move the holes up the same amount and use support under the cross bar.

    Also....

    The clip-on kid strikes again !



    Does it matter which wire I connect to which ?
    IE: one of the z probe wires is white and red and the other is just white. Both wires on the end stop are white.
    Tell a lie, if you turn it over, I got a red and white and a white as well - seems obvious put like that :-)
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 07-23-2017 at 01:19 PM.

  4. #154
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    inline with nozzle.


    Now got to go look up the gcode thing for nozzle touching. I did the wires the same way round - just to be sure :-)

    I'll upload to my thingiverse collection.
    It's an entire 5, short lines of code in openscad :-)
    At the very least we might get something out of wendy ;-)

    Right lets see if this works.

  5. #155
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    Yep that works !
    just 3 100ths of a millimetre between all three points.
    I can live with that :-)
    Much better than it was before. I knew one screw was off, but this really helped put it right.

    clip unclipped. Need to make a holder for it.
    Right redo z=0 and job done :-)

    One of these days I'll have to try and work out how it's supposed to work.

    That's enough for one day.
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 07-23-2017 at 03:42 PM.

  6. #156
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    The springs are fine. It's the crappy one bolt connectors to the frame that let it wobble.
    Should be easy enough to make a connector that mounts with two bolts so it can't move.

  7. #157
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    0.1 layer height ?

    And yep, good print :-)

  8. #158
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    seems to work :-)

  9. #159
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    light for the printer - or something else ?
    There is a 'light' connector on the board.

    About to try some wood filament. - Works great :-)

    Also it's occured to me that unless you include a touch in the centre of the build plate as well as the three outside touches - how can you calculate any kind of topography map ?
    Just won't work.
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 07-24-2017 at 11:11 AM.

  10. #160
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    Not sure about the wooden one. Maybe varnish rather than colouring the cup green.
    Got a couple more printing.
    Unfortunately the brown filament has been discontinued. No idea why it's my all time best filament ever.
    And because it's semi-translucent, it really catches the light. Was reprapper tech ltd wood filament. The same stuff now just looks like chocolate. Completely different.
    My design and not shared :-)

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