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  1. #141
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    what do you model with ?
    software I mean :-)

    And worth a look at how tevo do that suspended extruder trick on the little monster. You can get some pretty lightweight stepper motors that would be fine for the job.

    It's suspended by gt2 timing belt that attaches to the carriages, so just moves with the hotend - would be a simple adaption. Trying to find the assembly manual in pdf.
    But can't see any problems in duplicating it. Genius idea !




    build height is only limited by the amount of wire you have and the length of the struts :-)
    Really bloody clever.
    Looks like they're just using standard nema 17's for everything.
    Pics from here: https://www.tevousa.com/products/tev...3d-printer-kit
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 07-20-2017 at 06:11 AM.

  2. #142
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    well they claim 150mm/s print speed for the little devil. And none of the reviews I saw and read mentioned it as a problem.
    It's not actually attached to the 'effector' and the carriages are held steady by the belts and motors. So even if the extruder wobbles, it can't effect the print.
    It's damn clever I tell ya !

  3. #143
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    the magentic setup is brilliant !
    Plus it also has the added bonus of keeping the drive belts locked in.
    About the only thing that concerns me is if a belt works it's way out of the grooves, and you've sorted that. Mind you mine are that tight, it's unlikely.

    here's a dinky little motor that would do the job for suspended extruder :-)
    https://www.amazon.co.uk/sourcingmap...+stepper+motor
    And if you print the parts for the extruder instead of the solid metal ones, they'd still work fine but be a lot lighter.
    It's a great little extruder, don't think you'll get one much simpler.

    I'll have to set the endstop z-probe up at some point - still levelling by instinct, using the Force - as it were :-)

    It works, but it'd be nice to do it mechanically lol

    Probably work up a clip on/off holder for the switch. Nozzle won't be heated, so no reason can't use the throat to clip onto.

    Love the magnetic arms - has it made any difference - either better or worse to print quality ?

    So thinking back - about the only things we've not covered are the corner joining parts and the actual wheeled carriages themselves. Other than that I think we can now build a delta printer of humoungous size, from scratch with almost no size restrictions.
    Hot diggity :-)
    I just need a spare month or three to get it done :-)

    So let's assume we build a delta with a 1 metre print height and say 350mm heated build plate - could go bigger but then you've got all day to wait for it to warm up.
    We'll resize and print the strutnuts. The ones I've done are pretty tough and i can use pet-g if necessary.
    I'll do some field trials when i get the time.

    So printed parts, looking at:
    9 corner pieces,
    effector
    3 vertical roller carriages
    3 magnetic arm addons
    filament holders, extruder parts, fan duct, various little stuff

    Non printed

    2020 strut for verticals and diagonals
    heat pad for aluminium bed (aluminium, just because I can get that free)
    springs and bolts for bed - I like the suspended setup.
    15-20 metre roll of belt
    3 nema 17s + metal gear cog thingies
    1 nema 14
    4x endstops - might as well keep the z-probe as one, cheaper and works.
    Motherboard: I'd like to use the same board as the he3d 200, just like the design - but is there cheaper and better ? I have no clue on this.
    500 watt pc psu - cheap as chips and easy to hotwire - plus has on off switch.
    And mount all the crap on the top rather than at the bottom. makes more sense, gives better access and you can always put a dalek head over it if you wanted to :-)
    hotend - be nice to have one that runs up to 300c but a bog standard 260 e3d would be fine too.
    Top plate - I can probably get an aluminium one cut to size and shape while they do my plate. Either that or 5mm plywood painted black. That would make mounting stuff as simply as using self tapping woodscrews of which I have an abundance :-)

    What did I forget ?
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 07-21-2017 at 06:35 AM.

  4. #144
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    got sidetracked by work.
    Looks like the motherboard connector kicks out 7 volts.
    My mini-engraver machine is 5 volts as it's powered by usb ports.

    So figured I'd look around and see if there were any cheap 500 or 1000mw 3 pin lasers on the chinese vendor sites.
    plus why i have the gcode to switch the printer to non-printer mode. Can't figure the code to turn it back to printer mode.
    Not a big issue i can just turn the printer off and on again. Just be more elegant to do it in the gcode.

    If I find a 3 pin connector I'll maybe plug it in, but I'd prefer one that was already setup for the board.

    Oh yeah was thinking about the arms. How well are the balls attached to the shafts ?
    If just glue they could easiyl work loose over time. So was thinking why not print a piece that captures the ball with a shaft that glues into the end of the carbon tube for a much more secure connection.
    this kind of thing:

    Last edited by curious aardvark; 07-21-2017 at 10:50 AM.

  5. #145
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    lol yeah I've spent some time scouring the net as well.
    Only thing I can figure is that he3d have them custom made or they are so new nobody else has seen them yet.
    And looking around, I can't see anything that covers everything you need as neatly in a single compact board. I've seen a few thousand motherbaords over the years and the layout and design on the k200 is really good. Easy to wire, properly labelled and seems pretty reliable.
    It's not a ramps 1.4 and there's nothing anywhere about a ramps plus board.
    or a ramps 1.8 - which is what it seems to be.

    None of the boards they sell on reprapmall are the same. It's pretty weird.
    It's like they mated a mega 2560 with a ramps and this board is the mutant offspring.
    But it's a single piece and everything else I've seen is the two boards stuck together like lego.

    From what i found out, laser wise last night (and bear with me electrickery is not my thing) the right hand pin is red and the other two are both black. So connecting the red probe from my multimeter to the right pin, either of the other two give me 7 volts positive with the black (I can never remember which is + and which is -).
    So i was just thinking attach my red wire from the laser to right and black to left and leave the middle one alone.

    I'll pull a 3 pin connector from one of the dead pcs in the workshop.

    Oh yeah and you only need 6 corner pieces as stepper motors sit on top.
    PLus use either plywood or aluminium for a twin top and bottom plates. which will help stabilise everything.
    And all the corner pieces have to do is hold the belt pulleys and attach to 2020 struts.
    So nothing tricky to print.
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 07-21-2017 at 11:10 AM.

  6. #146
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    found it !
    they've got it listed under mainboard for the tricolor i3.
    http://www.reprapmall.com/index.php?...product_id=175
    $100 !

    So if that's $100 by itself - how the hell are they making ANY money on the delta kit ?

  7. #147
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    lol - yeah the dimensional accuracy is pretty cool on vertical cylinders.
    But would you trust them in serious use ? Nope.

    Those boards look pretty good. Not exactly the same but pretty close and cheap as chips too :-)
    Oh yeah:


    roughly glued, needs tidying a fair bit of work. But it's definitely me, lol

    And I have no clue what the mystery part is.

  8. #148
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    right update for the list of parts:

    So printed parts, looking at:
    6corner pieces,
    effector
    3 vertical roller carriages
    3 magnetic arm addons for roller carriages - unless you can do an all in one desig that incorporaes cable locking as well as magnetic arms.
    filament holders, extruder parts, feet, fan duct, various little stuff
    flying gantry for suspended extruder
    Stepper motor 'cages'.

    Non printed

    top and bottom - 10mm plywood for rigidity and ease of attaching stuff to. I could go aluminium, but so much easier to screw stuff to plywood than bolt it to aluminium.

    2020 strut for verticals and diagonals
    heat pad for aluminium bed (aluminium, just because I can get that free)
    Short length of tubing for extruder.
    springs and bolts for bed - I like the suspended setup - easy to adjust and level.
    10 metre roll of gt2 belt - 3 x 2.2(ish) metre and three little bits for suspended extruder
    3 nema 17s + metal gear cog thingies. 3 for motors and 3 for lower belt support.
    1 nema 14 + hobbed bolt and groove roller thingy.
    4x endstops - might as well keep the z-probe as one, cheaper and works.
    Motherboard: Probably MKS GEN of some kind.
    500 watt pc psu - cheap as chips and easy to hotwire - plus has on off switch.
    And mount all the crap on the top rather than at the bottom. Keeps wires short, so no extensions necessary longest wires go to extruder and hotend - and they'll be pretty much standard length anyway.
    hotend - be nice to have one that runs up to 300c but a bog standard 260 e3d would be fine too.
    Carbon rods for diagonal arms, plus 8mm ball bearings and magnets.
    4x stepper motor controller chips + heatsinks.
    Bag of strutnuts - the metal ones are pretty cheap in bulk.
    3 & 4mm bolts. From my local hardware store as they have phillips heads which are way better than bloody hex head allan key jobs and come in decent sized bags of all lengths for £1 a bag.
    wheel sets for roller carriages
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 07-22-2017 at 01:56 PM.

  9. #149
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    how easy is the carbon fibre rod to cut to length ?
    looks fairly cheap to buy. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-x-3k-Car...QAAOSwwE5WVTJU

    And whats the equation to work out length needed (obviously minus length of end pieces).

    Right go look for wheels.
    best buy looks like around £1 per wheel includign bearing. Bolts extra.
    The swivel to tighten thing is neat. But I dropped them down from the top anyway. so that's not actually necessary. 3mm bolt and printed insert/washer will work just as well.

    So we'd be looking at 3 x 1.5(ish) metre struts
    and 6 x ?
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 07-22-2017 at 02:12 PM.

  10. #150
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    nope.
    Only 1 watt.

    what's wrong with printed effectors ?
    You're just trying to make stuf cost more :-)

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