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  1. #61
    That print was super impressive...

    If I were you (and I'm not) and had that printer and idea (which I dont) and had the guts to print that and walk away (which I dont) here is what I would have done...

    instead of being flat, I would have given it a wavy profile (like cardboard innards) instead of a straight profile. would be much more rigid also.

    I love it!!!! I am rethinking this printer now... wavering this or the prusa style from folgertec.......

  2. #62
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    it'sa flat 4mm sheet that's just there to hold the cables off the ground.
    Strength isn't an issue. I could just have easily made the majority 2mm, and used a brim.
    I only used 4mm because that's the ideal thickness for the short bolts and strut nuts (that phrase just sounds so rude: 'strut nuts') to be easy to fit and get a real good grip without the end of the bolt touching the back of the channel. And I didn't think anything thinner would print like that.

    I've got two cartesian style printers and until I got this machine I thought they were pretty impressive. This delta blows them out of the water, both for speed and quality and build size.
    It's also a lot less complicated with fewer parts. So in the long run ought to be more reliable.
    And if something does go wrong, it's much easier to see what and why.

    I've clearly detailed all the issues I had and mods the kit needs.
    Which amount to not much.
    Would I buy another delta ?
    In a heart beat ! lol
    I'm also rethinking whether to make alexa larger: 3x 1 meter struts, 10metre roll of gt2 belt and some connectors to splice in longer cables. That would give me around a 2 foot build height. which with the 1.75m filament is realistically all you can expect the bowden setup to do, and I don't want to start buying 3mm filament alongside 1.75.
    My other thought is to buy another complete kit and the extra expansion parts and just build the larger machine from scratch.

    The other mod I did, which I'm not sure I've covered. I made a power cable with an inline switch - took about 5 minutes and 3 for the switch. Used an old computer power cable.
    One of the things this kit doesn't come with is an on/off switch.

    So I'd recommend you make your own.

    Now none of the extras and mods are difficult - but add it all together and I still think it puts this kit out of bounds for complete beginners.
    I will also detail how I level the heat bed at some point. The z probe is pretty much useless.
    You need a small phillips screwdriver and digital calipers.
    I've been mostly doing it by eye and experience, but I will write up a standardised method at some point. It's much much easier then playing with the z probe and messing about with numbers and plate tilt modelling.
    If you simply make the plate level and zero z in the centre, you don't need to bother with all the complicated and clever stuff.
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 06-16-2017 at 03:27 PM.

  3. #63
    Excellent! I thought you were mounting something to it other than cables. Now you got me swaying toward the delta.. As for skill, it would be my first one but I am not worried. I've been doing mechanical design work for 20 years and I can hold my own when it comes to getting my hands dirty..
    turned this
    into this

    I'll be following your progress with this machine and I hop you continue as I find it entertaining and very informative!


  4. #64
    I added one to my cart and gave away my money.

    Do you have the file for the extruder cradle so I can get one made while waiting for it to show up?

  5. #65
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    yes but just pm wendy and give her your email address, she'll send it to you.
    Actually I'll stick it on my thingiverse page. Print it fairly dense and make sure you get zero warp.
    There ya go. It's on my k200 page.
    Oh yeah I also enlarged it by 1% and the bolt holes were pretty much bang on. Tight, but you could still turn the bolt to engage the hexagonal nut.
    He3d had actually drilled their holes after printing. So I figured a little extra room was probably needed :-)

    Now I am currently super excited and there's nobody here I can tell who will understand why !!!!

    Yes she will :-)))))))))))))

    So I started easy with polyflex.
    20mm/s - ha !
    I topped out at 60mm/s - no problem.
    That is to say I stopped testing at 60 - there was no obvious difference in print quality between the 20 and 60 print.

    On the makerbot clones 30-40 is as fast as I can print polyflex.
    Yep the bowden printer prints flexibles FASTER than the direct drive machines. Ain't life grand :-)

    I'm currently printing with filaflex, is she bothered ? Not my Alexa !
    Currently printing trolley tokens as they weigh about 1/3 of a gram but show precision quite well.
    So 20mm/s 235c - unheated bed. 0.3mm layer height.
    Yep :-) No problem !
    going to skip 30 and head straight for the heady heights of 40mm/s !
    here we go....

    Just to put this into perspective I have never been able to print filaflex or ninjaflex on my makerbot clones. But because there are no gaps anywhere in the feed system on Alexa where the filament can bend or get tangled. the only way it can go is out the extruder. I have the top feed tube right down to the hobbed bolt and the teflon tube I actually sanded slightly so that it actually goes a tiny way into the feed tube.

    Okay 40mm/s is looking a bit 'ruff'.
    So that's fine. I reckon she'll do 25-30 without any problems.

    That said the final token doesn't look awful. But I'll stick to 25 I think for the ninja and filaflex. But because this stuff sticks to just about anything like glue, you can up the first layer speed to 50% which saves a lot of time.
    (a little later) actually I'm doing my first proper filaflex print, 25mm/s and decided to do the first layer at 100% Plus I usually print these things at 0.2 layer height and 3 layers. This one I'm doing at 0.3 and 2 layers. Cuts it from 2.5 hours down to 30 minutes.

    My delta prints filaflex :-)

    I need to get that on at-shirt - talk about nerd-wear :-)

    The white ones are the different speed polyflex and the 2 red ones are filaflex. The good one was 20mm/s the slightly dodgy one 40mm/s.

    Don't forget I'm using the 0.5mm nozzle. But i can't see there being a problem with any of the smaller sizes.

    @s550stang - wow, that is some job on the bike ! And come on ! A delta that prints even the wobbliest flexible filaments - the prusa is slower has way more movement and vibration and doesn't look anywhere near as cool as a delta plus the prusa has a lot more to go wrong with it. It's a no brainer ;-)

    @number40fan - any questions, let me know.
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 06-16-2017 at 05:04 PM.

  6. #66

  7. #67
    Search Amazon for "T-Slotted Extrusion". What is the dimensions of the legs? How tall do you want to go?

  8. #68
    How hot can the build plate get?

  9. #69
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    says 110 - but unless you enclose it, there's nothing you're going to print that's likely to need anything above 60 - that's all I had it on for petg.
    But remember I'm using printbite.
    I'm well known to be anti-abs on 3d printers, so I'm not even going to bother testing it on alexa. Hate the smell and the reliance on acetone and the fact that in an unenclosed printer it's just weak and crap anyway.

    I've looked up the aluminium extrusion.
    Realistically 1metre struts are as tall as it would be sensible to go with a 1.75mm feed system.
    It currently has 680mm legs, so with the bit you lose for the heatbed the extra 320mm would take her to a total of 590mm printable height.
    I'm in no hurry. Currently got zero need for printing anything that tall.
    It's just interesting to work out how to do it :-)

  10. #70
    Are the legs 1"x1"? Or something metric like 20mm?

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