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  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by OutcastZeroOne View Post
    Id have to remove that 14tooth pulley and put on a 16 unless its not going to be a big deal to configure, though a larger pulley would give a little better control.
    You got that backwards. Think of the drive gear as your pinion. More teeth mean a larger drive diameter and ultimately more travel per step. A smaller drive gear/wheel is what you want to keep the amount of steps per mm at its maximum for the greatest resolution.
    Last edited by AutoWiz; 05-07-2017 at 03:32 PM.

  2. #12
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    And on the subject of dampening, I am not a fan of rubber isolated stepper motors. I think rubber dampening by nature creates slop on the axis. remember these printers are chasing accuracy down to 0.0015"+/-. So any amount of movement between the stepper motor and frame is going to hurt this kind of performance. The solution for sound lies in a tightly built printer that does not let parts move back and forth at certain frequencies. And also from running a 24 volt system and using the silent tmc2100 stepper drivers configured to run in "stealth chop" mode.

    Creating slop on any of the printers axes to correct noise levels is a loosing battle because noise levels has nothing to do with the quality of the print. But changing how tightly the steppers are attached to the frame makes a huge impact on the quality of the prints. And it would be better to just encase the printer in a box to make it quiet. At least it won't come at the cost of accuracy or "ghosting" in your prints.

  3. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by AutoWiz View Post
    You got that backwards. Think of the drive gear as your pinion. More teeth mean a larger drive diameter and ultimately more travel per step. A smaller drive gear/wheel is what you want to keep the amount of steps per mm at its maximum for the greatest resolution.
    right, yeah, i did get that backwards, my bad there. need more coffee i think. running off 4.5 - 5 hours of sleep right now XD
    Last edited by OutcastZeroOne; 05-07-2017 at 04:01 PM.

  4. #14
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    Something else on the subject of sound is this idea I have. Borrowed from the automotive industry. SDA. Or sound deadening acoustics. While some manufacturers try to fill every unibody channel with some kind of foam to make the ride quieter, some manufacturers have a mic and tweeters that listen for certain frequencies and then generate an equally loud and opposite frequency to cancel out the noise. This is actually such a simple thing that it is integrated into factory sound systems on cars that support it. So I want to explore using a pi and experimenting with this. But not a raspberry pi. No. An Asus Tinkerboard or Banana pi m3 with octa core cpu goodness.

  5. #15
    yeah, I've wondered about doing some sort of active noise cancelation But i think I may be simply able to build in such a manner to not have anything to really vibrate. Im kinda going with the whole "keep it simple, stupid" approach. Worst case I slap some Husmat on the thing with some carpet to get rid of any vibrations of flat vibrating surface that has turned into a speaker.

  6. #16
    so i now have a RAMPS 1.4 board on the way. $9 on Amazon, and it was Prime too its enough to get me started. now Ive got most of my parts more or less planned out. Im probably going to have to go with an aluminum PCB heat bed due to cost and power needs. Im still not quite sure big of a power supply i need to get. I tend to go by the 80% rule with electronics, meaning I try not to exceed 80% of full capacity of my power system.

    I got a good look at a CoreXY machine at a local shop and got some ideas for the table lift. Cant remember what brand it was, but it used a single lead screw with 2 guild rails in the back with beefy "book shelf" style triangular mounts pointed out from about 1/3 distance centered at the back to the outer corners. Thing was rock solid so I may do something like that as well. Made a mounting case for my Mega 2560 so that it can be neatly mounted.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #17
    Anyone want a Trinamic version of an Arduino UNO stepper shield? :P

    https://www.digikey.com/catalog/en/p....1&vendor=1460

    and here is a full trinamic RAMPS like board!!!
    https://www.digikey.com/product-deta...158-ND/5724189

    dude.... im kinda wanting that Trinamic REPRAP board.... I looks like it has a lot of the goodies on it
    https://www.trinamic.com/support/eva.../tmc5130-eval/
    Last edited by OutcastZeroOne; 05-09-2017 at 02:40 AM.

  8. #18
    Anyone have any feedback on that Trinamic TRANS card?

  9. #19
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    You want an aluminum heat bed and not for financial reasons..



    The proximity sensor you might want to use for z axis end stop doesn't read the glass. I started with glass. Then to stop the corners from lifting I covered the glass in blue tape(which works very well) And then to get the auto bed leveling/tramming up and going I needed a proximity sensor attached to the print head. I did this conversion a while ago just to reduce setup times before each print. And now it is the only way for me. I detailed that conversion on page 4 of this thread: http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...Mixing-Printer

  10. #20
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    I have no input on the tmc boards other than to say that of the stepper drivers you can by the tmc are the most expensive. I have a set of tmc2100 drivers for the black widow 24volt printer. they were over $10 a piece. For stepper drivers with your ramps board you should be looking at 1/32 micro stepping drv8825 drivers. They will give you the most amount of steps per mm of travel and cost under $2 each.

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