Close



Results 1 to 7 of 7
  1. #1

    Drifting issue on X-Axis Assembly

    Drifting is the best way to describe it (see Pic) https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B7...tHNEloVV91Z0hB








    As you can see the nut is below the trap on the Belt Idler side, this occurs after every print and this results in this side being higher then then the right side (where the Z axis end-stop is located)​. I have to unscrew it re-seat it and then level the bed after every print. Any idea what could be causing it?. I did note that the Derlin's were tighter then on the other side so I loosened them up. I did contact colin and said it probably the gcode from Simple3D an suggested I just stick with SliC3R 0.99.

  2. #2
    Engineer-in-Training
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    297
    Quote Originally Posted by pochrist View Post
    Drifting is the best way to describe it (see Pic) https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B7...tHNEloVV91Z0hB








    As you can see the nut is below the trap on the Belt Idler side, this occurs after every print and this results in this side being higher then then the right side (where the Z axis end-stop is located)​. I have to unscrew it re-seat it and then level the bed after every print. Any idea what could be causing it?. I did note that the Derlin's were tighter then on the other side so I loosened them up. I did contact colin and said it probably the gcode from Simple3D an suggested I just stick with SliC3R 0.99.
    Have you attempted to square the X Axis to the Y Axis? I don't know if this would solve your issue, but if the X Axis is skewed then it may cause this issue.

    Below is a picture of what I do to level my X and Y Axis:

    http://imgur.com/a/WjSmz

    I am measuring the distance between the Y Axis crossbar and the X Axis crossbar using a combination square. I do this on each crossbar for the Y Axis and ensure they measure the same distance apart. This ensures that the X Axis and Y Axis are as close to orthogonal as possible. I would check this first.

    I can ensure you the G Code with S3D is not causing this.

  3. #3
    I'll check that when i get back to my printer.

    looking at your picture I see your motor mounts and threaded rod are sturdier then what came with my kit. The clear rubber sleeves I have doubts about, today while printing a job the threaded rod on the opposite side slipped out of the sleeve and was about a half inch in the air before i noticed it. their isn't enough clearance to zip tie the sleeve to rod so i'm at a loss as to prevent this from happening again.

  4. #4
    Engineer-in-Training
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    297
    Quote Originally Posted by pochrist View Post
    I'll check that when i get back to my printer.

    looking at your picture I see your motor mounts and threaded rod are sturdier then what came with my kit. The clear rubber sleeves I have doubts about, today while printing a job the threaded rod on the opposite side slipped out of the sleeve and was about a half inch in the air before i noticed it. their isn't enough clearance to zip tie the sleeve to rod so i'm at a loss as to prevent this from happening again.
    I upgraded my Z Axis recently to 8mm Acme (Lead Screw's): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    This is a great upgrade to make on your printer eventually but does require you to change the printer's firmware. If you are comfortable doing that then it is a quick and easy $40.00 upgrade.

    However, if you want to get rid of those plastic tubes you can use the following: https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Motor-...+shaft+coupler

    This will ensure your Z axis motors are secured to the threaded rod.

    Another thing you want to check is your threaded rod for debris and make sure those nut's can turn easily. You may need to use a 3 in 1 oil to lubricate and clean the threaded rod's.

  5. #5
    I'm no stranger to upgrading firmware, but I'm going to have print out bushings to move the motor mounts further out from the frame as well to so the shaft and coupler will clear the Y axis bar its so tight now i can't even put a zip tie on it without the rod spinning the plastic sleeve and hitting the bar. For now I'll just order the M5 shaft & coupler and use the existing threaded rods, I'll just have to make a modified the Z-nut trap to accommodate for the offsetting of the motors.

    Thanks, is there a resource you used to do your upgrade (ie like a guide with a kink to the required firmware? I would like to do it in the future.

  6. #6
    Engineer-in-Training
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    297
    Quote Originally Posted by pochrist View Post
    I'm no stranger to upgrading firmware, but I'm going to have print out bushings to move the motor mounts further out from the frame as well to so the shaft and coupler will clear the Y axis bar its so tight now i can't even put a zip tie on it without the rod spinning the plastic sleeve and hitting the bar. For now I'll just order the M5 shaft & coupler and use the existing threaded rods, I'll just have to make a modified the Z-nut trap to accommodate for the offsetting of the motors.

    Thanks, is there a resource you used to do your upgrade (ie like a guide with a kink to the required firmware? I would like to do it in the future.
    I cannot think of a specific guide, you just have to learn about the Marlin Firmware. Essentially the Marlin firmware that is run on your printer is a few text documents with settings that you can modify. Take a look at this video:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3gwWVFtdg-4&t=368s

    Using my knowledge of the firmware and the mechanical system, I had to change the Steps/MM of the Z axis to 400, compared to 4000 on the default setup.

  7. #7
    Super Moderator Roxy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Lone Star State
    Posts
    2,043
    Quote Originally Posted by BLKKROW View Post
    I cannot think of a specific guide, you just have to learn about the Marlin Firmware. Essentially the Marlin firmware that is run on your printer is a few text documents with settings that you can modify. Take a look at this video:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3gwWVFtdg-4&t=368s

    Using my knowledge of the firmware and the mechanical system, I had to change the Steps/MM of the Z axis to 400, compared to 4000 on the default setup.
    The source code for your firmware should be posted. If you look in the Configuration.h and Configuration_adv.h file, those #define's control just about everything.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •