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  1. #21
    Engineer-in-Training
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    Hi

    Ok, here's the rest of the pic's



    225_ - 7.jpg


    Above, tangle of wires going into the Ramps. It's mounted on a custom printed part. The fan mount is also custom.


    225_ - 8.jpg

    Above is a slightly different angle on the tangle of wires going into the Ramps.


    That's about as good as I can do with the cell phone. To get better, I'm going to have to pull out the Nikon and do a real photo shoot. If these aren't good enough, let me know what you need to see and I'll try to get the all of the right gear set up.

    Bob
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by uncle_bob; 09-22-2016 at 12:25 PM.

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by printbus View Post
    The board currently defaults to inserting images as thumbnails, which people can click on to enlarge. I realized the other day that in the post edit window, you can over-ride this by double clicking on the image and selecting full-size in the properties window that pops up. Edit your post again and give that a shot.

    EDIT: And yeah, the board won't accept the high-res pictures people can get from the phone cameras these days. I usually resize photos down to about 800x600 pixels before uploading.

    Hi

    For those who haven't quite yet guessed, printbus was coaching me through the photo process ... THANKS !!!!

    Bob

  3. #23
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    Hi

    Here are a few of the printer plugged in with the LED lamp running. It's also a great shot of all the junk ...

    226_ - 1.jpg


    Above is a front view that gives a pretty good idea of how the 10W LED lamp lights up the printer. The edge of the printed mount is visible in the next picture. It also gives an idea of just how much shimming I needed to do to get things close to level on a folding plastic table.

    226_ - 2.jpg

    Another view of the front of the machine from a different angle.

    226_ - 3.jpg

    The one above shows the heated bed solid state relay at the lower left and the LED light at the upper right. It also shows how the cables run along the top side of the machine.


    226_ - 4.jpg

    This one is a pretty good view of the dual power supplies and how the newer / cheaper Meanwell supplies fit on the machine. I have two simply to give *lots* of power to the heated bed.

    Hopefully that should give people a pretty good idea of what mine now looks like.

    Bob
    Last edited by uncle_bob; 09-22-2016 at 12:04 PM.

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by uncle_bob View Post
    Hi

    If you are using the correct hardware, your extrusions are not tapped deep enough. You can either have Colin swap them out or get a tap and clean up the parts you have. If you have tapped parts before this one is no different. If you have never done it, spend some time with YouTube. There is a bit of a technique to doing it without breaking the tap.

    Bob
    I think the nuts are tapped, but I think the screws are bottoming out in the extrusion.

  5. #25
    Staff Engineer printbus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLKKROW View Post
    I think the nuts are tapped, but I think the screws are bottoming out in the extrusion.
    Ah. You guys are talking about the M5 bolts and the nut plates? I know I had a problem on my i3v with the M5 bolts bottoming out, evidenced by a ring from the bolt being cut into the far side of the channel in the extrusion. I solved that by filing off the machining ridge left on the threaded end of the bolts or by adding a washer under the bolt head.

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by printbus View Post
    Ah. You guys are talking about the M5 bolts and the nut plates? I know I had a problem on my i3v with the M5 bolts bottoming out, evidenced by a ring from the bolt being cut into the far side of the channel in the extrusion. I solved that by filing off the machining ridge left on the threaded end of the bolts or by adding a washer under the bolt head.
    Actually its the bolts that screw into the end of the 20x20 extrusions.

    I think I may try to find slightly shorter M5 bolts. I don't have the tools to do any tapping. If I can't find the bolts, I'll reach out to Colin.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by microjedi View Post
    Actually its the bolts that screw into the end of the 20x20 extrusions.

    I think I may try to find slightly shorter M5 bolts. I don't have the tools to do any tapping. If I can't find the bolts, I'll reach out to Colin.
    Hi

    If we are talking about this:

    227_ - 1.jpg


    .... and not this (the tiny thing in the middle of the picture):

    227_ - 2.jpg


    There are two bolts on the first part. Both can be problems. The horizontal one can have an issue with the tapping of the extrusion. The solution for that is a tap or a new part (if it is stripped out). The vertical bolt goes into an insert. The insert can strip out and may need to be replaced. The bolt may be to long and you need to grab the right one. If the insert is stripped out, a snap in insert is an easy thing to replace it with.

    If we are talking about the second mounting structure for the Y axis (second picture), there are a whole bunch of things related to that mount.

    Bob

  8. #28
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    Hi

    So, after some fiddling, the printer is back up and running.....

    Seems that *somebody* (I blame the dog) didn't quite get the e3d hot end tight enough when it was hot. There was a very slow leak that piled plastic up on top of the hot end. Eventually blobs of it started dropping of into prints at various random places. That lead to a lot of "why did the software make it over extrude there?" kind of questions. Needless to say, changing software settings didn't have much impact on the issue.

    Tightening the e3d involves grabbing it with two wrenches / pliers when it's hot. One grabs the top of the heatsink and the other grabs the bottom of the nozzle. Significant force is applied to get things tight. Since it's all running hot *with* the teflon tube in place (in my case) the fan is on and running. .... fan shroud gets pushed down into the hot block .... hot block wins.

    The second part of this is: Print up a second fan shroud (and maybe a third and fourth) *before* the one you have melts down. Getting the hot block up to temperature with a big hole in the bottom of the shroud is not easy. It appears that the filament used to print up the shroud does not matter much. The original melted pretty fast.

    Pealing back through the layers of goo on the head, I can spot the colors of each of the rolls of filament I've gone through on the machine. This isn't something that just came loose on it's own. It never was adequately tightened ever. Also putting the new fan shroud on, it fits a lot better than the old one. Hmmm..... I suspect that somewhere along the way I shut things down a bit to fast (hot end cool fans stopped to soon) and the heatsink got warm enough to soften the plastic. That may have been part of the reason the fan shroud dropped down while tightening the thing up.

    Again ... it could not possibly have been my fault .. The dog is to blame. Now all I have to work out is which of the three dogs was the one I assigned that task to ...

    ========

    The basic issue here is that you assemble the hot end cold and then mount it up. After that you go through a bunch of work to get things wired up. Way late in the process you "remember" that the hot end needs to be tightened. It now has a PTFE tube in it and that mandates the use of the fan.

    So, here's a suggestion:

    At the point the part is first screwed together (the three metal parts plus the nozzle are mated) you do not have a PTFE tube in it. It's sitting there on your bench. Hmmmm ..... any chance you have an oven? Can it be set to 300C (maybe 250...)? If so, chuck the assembly on a cookie sheet in the hot oven. Let it sit for a half hour. Pull it out (with pliers) and tighten it down. Repeat one or two more times. Do this while you are putting the rest of the printer together.

    Bob
    Last edited by uncle_bob; 09-24-2016 at 02:22 PM.

  9. #29
    Engineer-in-Training
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    Quote Originally Posted by uncle_bob View Post
    Hi

    So, after some fiddling, the printer is back up and running.....

    Seems that *somebody* (I blame the dog) didn't quite get the e3d hot end tight enough when it was hot. There was a very slow leak that piled plastic up on top of the hot end. Eventually blobs of it started dropping of into prints at various random places. That lead to a lot of "why did the software make it over extrude there?" kind of questions. Needless to say, changing software settings didn't have much impact on the issue.

    Tightening the e3d involves grabbing it with two wrenches / pliers when it's hot. One grabs the top of the heatsink and the other grabs the bottom of the nozzle. Significant force is applied to get things tight. Since it's all running hot *with* the teflon tube in place (in my case) the fan is on and running. .... fan shroud gets pushed down into the hot block .... hot block wins.

    The second part of this is: Print up a second fan shroud (and maybe a third and fourth) *before* the one you have melts down. Getting the hot block up to temperature with a big hole in the bottom of the shroud is not easy. It appears that the filament used to print up the shroud does not matter much. The original melted pretty fast.

    Pealing back through the layers of goo on the head, I can spot the colors of each of the rolls of filament I've gone through on the machine. This isn't something that just came loose on it's own. It never was adequately tightened ever. Also putting the new fan shroud on, it fits a lot better than the old one. Hmmm..... I suspect that somewhere along the way I shut things down a bit to fast (hot end cool fans stopped to soon) and the heatsink got warm enough to soften the plastic. That may have been part of the reason the fan shroud dropped down while tightening the thing up.

    Again ... it could not possibly have been my fault .. The dog is to blame. Now all I have to work out is which of the three dogs was the one I assigned that task to ...

    ========

    The basic issue here is that you assemble the hot end cold and then mount it up. After that you go through a bunch of work to get things wired up. Way late in the process you "remember" that the hot end needs to be tightened. It now has a PTFE tube in it and that mandates the use of the fan.

    So, here's a suggestion:

    At the point the part is first screwed together (the three metal parts plus the nozzle are mated) you do not have a PTFE tube in it. It's sitting there on your bench. Hmmmm ..... any chance you have an oven? Can it be set to 300C (maybe 250...)? If so, chuck the assembly on a cookie sheet in the hot oven. Let it sit for a half hour. Pull it out (with pliers) and tighten it down. Repeat one or two more times. Do this while you are putting the rest of the printer together.

    Bob
    If anyone ever needs the proper way to assemble the E3D V6, use the following video:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xr02pG58gaU

    This shows you how to assemble it so the heat break creates a natural seal with the nozzle. Using this method I have never needed Teflon tape.

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLKKROW View Post
    If anyone ever needs the proper way to assemble the E3D V6, use the following video:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xr02pG58gaU

    This shows you how to assemble it so the heat break creates a natural seal with the nozzle. Using this method I have never needed Teflon tape.
    Hi

    If you attempt to follow the process he shows, you can't execute the steps when you need to within the MakerFarm instruction and build approach. The hot end / teflon goes into the extruder *many* pages before anything at all is done with the electronics. It's actually quite difficult to do that way within the kit build..

    Bob

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