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  1. #11
    Student
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    BC Canada
    Posts
    20
    Thanks for the PostImage link and info about the check box!!

    Here are a few images that I have taken so far.

    Mirror Alignment fail:
    The laser hits the inner corner of the mirror screwing up the beam. Easily fixed.



    Here is my completed Peachy printer



    Here is my reservoir (2L pop bottle), dripper and print container (~4L glass cylinder).
    I made my print base a bit different. I like it better than the recommended one (so far. We will see after I do a print).



    Here is an orientation test. No calibration has been done (although this is part of the calibration itself).
    I was expecting it to draw directly below. Some adjustments are probably required.



    I will be doing more experimenting with the drip system tonight then doing the actual calibration for my print container. Because I'm using a larger container, the main tube (that contains the hoses in the print container) is too short for a full container print. The 2L bottle I'm using will need to be changed to a 4L bottle and I will need to make my own cap with holes for it. Easy. I will also need to make some mounts for the Peachy to securely rest on my large print container. I have some ideas stirring.
    I will assemble the recommended 1L and 2L pop bottle setup too.
    I also need to get some UV lights. Sunlight will have to do for now. I will just have to keep the cat from eating my print jobs ;-)

    Stay tuned !!!

    Jason

  2. #12
    Student
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    BC Canada
    Posts
    20
    Plastic tweezers would be AWESOME !!!
    I've been poking around fiddling with peachy parts with pens, wires, small screw drivers and if I'm not careful, they get stuck on the magnets. Then i have to get the tool out of the printer without yanking things out of alignment. Plastic tweezers. i need to find me a pair.

    I'm also strategizing on how to find out if I still have the second protective layer on the mirrors. I will sacrifice a spare mirror in my research. I'm thinking Q-tips and crazy glue (I don't think that I've loved crazy glue so much !!)

    Jason

  3. #13
    Student
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    BC Canada
    Posts
    20
    Dripper Oddity
    Getting the drip system started seems to be straight forward and easily repeatable.
    -(assuming all hoses properly connected) Have the Return hose and the short Purple hose (see pic above) securly crimped with plastic O's.
    -Have your reservoir above the Print container
    -Squeeze the reservoir until dripping starts. Sometimes it quickly stops so a second short squeeze gets it going.
    -Change the height of the reservoir to change the drip speed.
    -The drips stop when the reservoir is empty

    Now...to get the print container to drain back into the reservoir "should" be done like this:
    -Lower the reservoir below the print container
    -uncrimp both crimped hoses
    -watch the reservoir fill
    -Flow stops when the print container water level reaches the bottom of the drain hose (in the print container). The end of that hose should be the same as your print base.

    Unfortunately, the return flow isn't working for me.

    @Rylan
    What am I missing here?

  4. #14
    Student
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    BC Canada
    Posts
    20
    Mirror update:
    Sacrificing the mirror was a success!!
    Turns out I still had the clear layer on BOTH mirrors!! I suspected as much as the beam was not very focused in the few tests I did on the glow paper.

    Here's how to properly prep the mirrors during your build.

    START with the mirrors. Really, step one.
    Use a flat head jeweller's screw driver to scratch at the end of the NARROW part of the mirror.
    The blue layer will come off with out too much trouble but the clear layer will need more effort.
    If the clear layer is still on, scratching it with the screw driver will feel a little soft. You will notice a slightly rubbery tactile response (of course the mirror itself isn't exactly "hard"). You might start to see the clear layer start to stretch and distort before it peals off.
    Once the layers peal back ***DO NOT REMOVE THEM YET *** !!!
    FULLY removing the protective films will be done near the end of the printer build so the mirrors stay protected. With the the layers already propelled, you will have a MUCH easier time doing the final removal when the time comes.

    Lucky for me, the scratches I put in one of my mirror was only a scratch in the clear layer !! All mirrors look shiny and new :-)

    Jason

  5. #15
    Student
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    BC Canada
    Posts
    20
    Galvos and Alignment

    You have noticed that one of my previous pics had the laser drawing very close to the side of the test container. It “should” be drawing directly below, so why wasn’t it?

    I started to investigate several alignment issues last night:
    -drawing off center
    -“one” warped edge on square test (left side is bent)




    I started by poking the Laser itself to see if it was pointing at the mirror straight.
    The leads are long for the laser so it sticks out a bit from the PCB. I found it quite easy to eyeball the horizontal and vertical alignment of the laser and found that it was just fine. OF course, by poking it I misaligned it quite fantastically! I had lasers hit the wall occasionally and decided it was time to put on the supplied laser safety glasses. I will NOT be shooting my eye out with a 3D printer !! (Try explaining that to grandma !!)

    Next was the galvos. Making sure that the galvo magnets are not touching the aluminum damper in the armature is important. What I didn’t realize yet was that the ROTATATION of the galvos around the armature is CRITICAL. The rotation sets where the laser is going to draw. This is why my test patterns were drawing off center.
    (see second pic above. Top down view of vertical galvo)

    Rotating the galvo on the vertical armature sets the Y axis (reference printer orientation is with the PCB facing the camera, See pics)
    Rotating the galvo on the horizontal armature sets the X axis.

    The galvo on the vertical axis is very loose on my printer. It doesn’t like to stay in its’ place. Eventually, I will have to do something about this. I would like to glue it but if I do, it had better be in perfect alignment or I’ll be stuck with it for good !!

    So I have the patterns drawing in the center of the glow paper, I have a nice focused beam thanks to removing the clear layer from the mirror but I still have two odd problems.
    -ONE side of the square is warped
    -The square is not square (sides are not parallel)

    I found the warped side problem. Earlier in the build I had to remove on mirror from the armature and stick it back on. Somehow I managed to get the thread under the end tip of the mirror. That curves the mirror surface at the end (..and where the laser draws). I still have to fix it but at least I know what’s causing it.

    More to come…

    Jason

  6. #16
    Hey thej,

    Could you post the images in a bigger resolution?
    Currently, it's really hard to make out what is happening.

    Thanks,
    quertz

  7. #17
    Student
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    BC Canada
    Posts
    20
    This has been bothering me too. So... solution!
    Here is a link directly to my PostImage repository so everyone can see the images in FULL resolution.

    https://postimg.org/gallery/1v2m10jn8/

    In the latest pics, notice the progression of change in the square test pattern pictures. See how it moves closer to the center as I rotated the Galvo. Image 126 shows the change really well (overlapping squares).

    Pictures 129 through 135 show the hourglass pattern as I increase the speed of the laser drawing. The first is at 100mm then I increment by 100 for each additional pic up to 500mm (132 & 133 are both set to 300). You can see the edges smooth out and the center pull apart b/c it's drawing too fast.

    Pic 136 is an interesting one using the spiral test pattern. The sides are clipped and there is a chunk out of the right side. I think I need to change the Height calibration in the software and the chunk is probably a thread getting in the way of the laser.

    J

  8. #18
    Works great, thanks!

  9. #19
    Thus far I've spent under $50 USD in parts and can repurpose everything in other projects (I have many) if it doesn't work out

    MODERATOR NOTE: Late post due to unexpected delay in obtaining moderator approval
    Last edited by printbus; 09-19-2016 at 05:30 PM.

  10. #20
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    5,399
    so at what point do you actually try and print something ?

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