End User advice wanted! Makerfarm Pegasus 12 Build

[OVersliders]

Hello all!

I recently purchased a Pegasus 12 kit with dual E3D V6s and I am about to start the build in the coming few days.
I followed the list of items to get from Makerfarm and I got pretty much everything but the glass and fire blanket.
Now I wanted to reach out to other makerfarm users to see what else could be needed that is not included in the manual.
Did you guys find any tricks along the way that facilitated the build, etc...
I look forward to read from you all.

[Youngjedi]

Just finished mine a couple weeks ago. The fire blanket i had laying around from a forge shop I work at. You can get them online. it lays flat on the aluminum heat shield.
I found only two small issues during my build. one of the hidden corner brackets was not tapped. If you have a 4m tap, that's easy enough. i did not and Colin sent me a new one. the other issue was the belt length. I cut the first part to the correct length. When it came to put the belt on the x carriage, it was almost too short. I had no room for error and it took me quite a while to get it on the screw post.
This is my second makerfarm printer. I have a 10" that is awesome!. Colin is great with the answers and quick to get back to you.

I also added an auto bed leveler to the printer. The new Manual Bed leveling that is in the marlin software is great, but i prefer my prints to get there own bed measurements for every print. it only adds about 90 seconds to the print.

Take your time with the build, make sure you have put in ALL the hidden nuts that the instruction say to. I forgot one and had to disassemble the frame to add it back in.

Enjoy!

Youngjedi

[OVersliders]

I am finally done with it.
I did take my time and I did run into the same issue as you with the hidden nut haha. I ended up buying a pack of 25 drop in T-nuts after that just in case.
Aside of that I made a few mods to it already before being done building it. I didn't want to have to take it appart to do any mods afterward.
Here is the final result of the build.









I ended up buying some 12V COB LED daytime running lights I wired to the PSU alongside the fans($7). They are mounted on 3D printed adjustable brackets.
Cable management was done with some medium home audio/video concealing tracks (not the cheapest way to do it).
I used 7x7 cable tracks for the Z stepper and limit switch and some 10x15 for everything on the Hot End carrier(about $14/17).
I 3D printed a mount for the cable track to attach to the Hot End carrier like so:









I am very curious at how the self leveling kit works?
I used the leveling function from the firmware and it did not seem to do the trick on my first test print.
Lmk if you are interested in the cable track mounting piece, I will gladly share my STL for that.

[Youngjedi]

Cool Cable track. I used the TechFlex Flexo F6 for mine. It allows me to double up wires that are too long like the right hand side z motor.
https://www.techflex.com/prod_f6n.asp

The self leveling that i incorporated was the one instructed by Zenmaster. It involves a servo on an arm with a micro switch. the servo extends before the print and touches off at 9 points (3X3 Grid) and records all the levels. Then starts to print on the bed with those measurements. as the print happens, the Z motor rods will turn slightly back and forth to accommodate any UN-evenness of the bed. my bed is on the wooden washers...no springs.

Here is the info for Zenmaster's auto level.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=awsI9bMndJA

the video shows the bracket for the servo to be that of a Makerfarm Prusa I3. I found the E3V6 lite bracket on thingiverse.

I think i will incorporate lights too...That really looks nice! Congrats!


One quick edit. I used the manual bed leveling as well. I tried it with a 0.015 shim, and also with a gum foil wrapper. I did not like the results either way do to the fact it was hard to tell if you are accurately reading all the points constantly.

[BLKKROW]

I finished building mine last week.

Right now the only upgrade I have is PID enabled on the heated bed using a SSR. I managed my wires using the cover STL's provided by Makerfarm. On my list to do is designing a way to mount a cooling fan, I have some ides but I need to sit down and get it done.

[Youngjedi]

First thing I did once done was to print all the spare parts if needing replacement...idler, DD mounts...ets.

[OVersliders]

Well I'm actually just about to do that.
For some reason the bearing carrier that pushes the filament against the extruder gear snap one of the tooth that guides the filament.
So far I'm having a lot of trouble getting a succesful print.
The bed leveling screws are too short making the heat bed relay touch the support frame and bulge the glass bed. It took me a while to realize the relay was the culprit.
The second thing is that three time I had the extruder just stop extruding mid print.
It almost seemed that it was a USB issue at first so I swtich to SD card, but I get the same crap.
I loosened my filament spool for the printer to have to generate less effort to pull but it still does it. My next try is to make a custom bearing carrier and instead of doing two little teeth to guide the filament I'll make it a 2mm hole.
I had quite the frustrating weekend lol.

[jackal24]

My bed relay doesn't get anywhere near the frame.

I also had issues with the stock direct extruders. I don't think they are strong enough. The slightest tension in the spool and the extruder skips. I ended up switching to Clough42's Itty Bitty Double Flex V2 and haven't had any skipping issues since. It also has the advantage that it has a built in part fan and ABL servo (which I found a lot easier than the manual leveling process).

[jackal24]

Also, the best upgrade I have done so far is to get a Raspberry Pi and install Octopi.

[jackal24]

Lmk if you are interested in the cable track mounting piece, I will gladly share my STL for that.

Yes please. Also if you have the original CAD file, it would be great.

Thanks.