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  1. #1

    Should I get a Creator X Clone?

    This has probably been asked before but I have a few specific questions.

    So, I have the opportunity to purchase a Monoprice 3D printer at a very good price. As I understand it this is just a clone of a Creator X. This is my first 3D printer and I feel it will be good out of the box for that. However I want to make a solid first purchase so I have a couple of questions.

    1. As far as I can tell the Creator Pro is an upgraded version of the X. Are there any huge differences? Anything that can't be taken care of in the after market?

    2. Supposedly the firmware on the Monoprint isn't able to be flashed. I have a decent soldering abilities and a background with electronics. How hard would it be to upgrade the mother board in this machine to something more modern with more capabilities. I probably wouldn't do this for awhile but I want to know if it is even possible.

    3. E3D seems to make some of the best print heads are these able to be used with this printer?

    4. People say that the Creator Pro is capable of 50micron prints with various upgrades. Is this true for the Creator X as well?

    Basically I see this 3D printer as a frame and I want to know if I can expand its capabilities later if I so desire.

    Thanks for your help!

  2. #2
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    The pro has an enclosed print volume and a few minor mechanical upgrades. It's also usually in a metal frame that gives it the stability to print at 0.05 mm layers.
    And let me tell you now: you will NEVER print at 0.05mm on a flashforge. It would take a week for a smallish print and wouldn't look much different from a print at 0.1mm.
    Personally 0.2mm is my normal hi resolution print and 0.3 my standard.

    The creator x is a great machine. I've got around 1000 hours on mine. I mostly print things that don't take too long. So that probably equates to close to 1500 actual print runs and a lot more objects than I realised I'd printed :-)
    A lot of the small stuff gets given away anyway, or binned if it's an early iteration of a design.

    Apart from adding a cooling duct for the print area, all I've done is add a flat printbed - basically because of the way the printbed is screwed to the heater - it'll warp out of true very quickly. A 225mm by 150mm by 3mm thick sheet of aluminium taped on top of the orginal is what I use.
    You can use glass if you want - but it's a fairly safe bet you'll need to use something.

    And apart from greasing and cleaning the rods every few months and the occasional bolt tighten, that's basically all I've ever done to her.

    The only thing you'd gain from replacing the motherboard is the abiltiy to use a few different slicers. But I've found makerware and simplify3d are all I've ever needed.

    Not sure what you'd gain from changing the extruder. I haven't found anything yet I can't print, from ninjaflex to polycarbonate.

    If what you want to do is buy something to upgrade - you'd probably be better off starting with an iprusa I3 base or kit.
    Cheaper and designed for infinite tinkerability :-)

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by curious aardvark View Post
    The pro has an enclosed print volume and a few minor mechanical upgrades. It's also usually in a metal frame that gives it the stability to print at 0.05 mm layers.
    And let me tell you now: you will NEVER print at 0.05mm on a flashforge. It would take a week for a smallish print and wouldn't look much different from a print at 0.1mm.
    Personally 0.2mm is my normal hi resolution print and 0.3 my standard.

    The creator x is a great machine. I've got around 1000 hours on mine. I mostly print things that don't take too long. So that probably equates to close to 1500 actual print runs and a lot more objects than I realised I'd printed :-)
    A lot of the small stuff gets given away anyway, or binned if it's an early iteration of a design.

    Apart from adding a cooling duct for the print area, all I've done is add a flat printbed - basically because of the way the printbed is screwed to the heater - it'll warp out of true very quickly. A 225mm by 150mm by 3mm thick sheet of aluminium taped on top of the orginal is what I use.
    You can use glass if you want - but it's a fairly safe bet you'll need to use something.

    And apart from greasing and cleaning the rods every few months and the occasional bolt tighten, that's basically all I've ever done to her.

    The only thing you'd gain from replacing the motherboard is the abiltiy to use a few different slicers. But I've found makerware and simplify3d are all I've ever needed.

    Not sure what you'd gain from changing the extruder. I haven't found anything yet I can't print, from ninjaflex to polycarbonate.

    If what you want to do is buy something to upgrade - you'd probably be better off starting with an iprusa I3 base or kit.
    Cheaper and designed for infinite tinkerability :-)
    Good post, but it should be noted that both of the "upgrades" you listed (thicker build plate and active cooling) are included with the FFCP.

  4. #4
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    it also has a z-axis screw that is held at the top and thicker guide rails.

    what I mentioned aren't upgrades. just things you will have to do to get the best from a creator x.
    My build plate is exactly the same thickness as the original. But as it isn't screwed down with screws that have a different expansion coefficient, it won't warp :-)
    And the cooling duct is simply an essential add on, I suppose that one's technically an upgrade :-)

  5. #5
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    The X and the pro both have the z axis held at the top by a bearing and this isn't a good thing or good feature.

    The Monoprice isn't a Creator X Clone, it is a Creator X made by the same company that makes the Creator Pro...

    The price on the Monoprice is good, the upgrated Zstage and Zrails can be had for $75. Then you can make a tupperware cover or get the Pro cover for 60 bucks or so. The front doesn't need a door, you can use some plastic clips and some plexi to cover it. My first printer was a Creator X. Still works good today. I got a top for it, and still use the plexi cover I made early on.

  6. #6
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    I think you'll find that my creator x does NOT have the z screw held at the top. I've looked - there is nothing holding it :-)
    My klic-n-print - essentially an unenclosed pro, Does.
    The creator x makes a lot of noise, the knp almost none. Not having the z screw wobbling about must help in some way :-)
    Plus it gives better stability for higher resolution prints and makes the bed that bit more stable.

    Also bear in mind that you only need enclosing for standard nylon and abs. Nothing else needs it.

  7. #7
    The screw does not need to be held at the top as it does not provide support. The Z rods do that.

    In fact, the threaded rod is better being unsupported at one end as these often do not run true. Being fixed at both ends can cause misalignment in your print due to pressure placed on the Z rods.

    A threaded rod will also not make noise as it is held by the motor on one end and the threaded bush on the table assembly. Upload a video of the noise you hear.

    Enclosure also need for specialty filaments like PP and PE. 2-3% shrinkage on those.


  8. #8
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    You need to fully grease the bearings in the Creator X. Not just put a little on the rails, that just gets smeared around by the bearing seals. If it is fan noise that is making it loud then unplug the fan underneath the machine. It is very noisy and isn't needed.

    There is no stability to be gained by having the Zaxis captured at the top. It creates more problems than it helps.

    Quote Originally Posted by curious aardvark View Post
    I think you'll find that my creator x does NOT have the z screw held at the top. I've looked - there is nothing holding it :-)
    My klic-n-print - essentially an unenclosed pro, Does.
    The creator x makes a lot of noise, the knp almost none. Not having the z screw wobbling about must help in some way :-)
    Plus it gives better stability for higher resolution prints and makes the bed that bit more stable.

    Also bear in mind that you only need enclosing for standard nylon and abs. Nothing else needs it.

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by jfkansas View Post
    If it is fan noise that is making it loud then unplug the fan underneath the machine. It is very noisy and isn't needed.
    Really?! The noise this fan makes is a major gripe for me. But hiw can unplugging it be safe? Bear in mind, I print with an enclosed chamber for long periods often over 20 hours...


  10. #10
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    The enclosed chamber doesn't have any temp effects underneath the printer. The stepper drivers don't run at full capacity so they don't get hot. The fan was a failed attempt a long time ago, think 2012ish, to fix a problem. The clone manufacturers just had the fan because the original design had one. The Chinese aren't very good at designing 3d printers, but they are good at copying... sometimes they even copy a bad design from the start.

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